I still do not see any mention of actually measuring the fuel pressure. You have a bunch of new parts, but no empirical data. If the truck was dumping that much fuel then you can bet your plugs are probably fouled. If the truck has a converter(s) on it then it may be plugged as well.

KOER Code 21 is typically caused by not warming the truck up before running the tests.

Code 22 indicates the MAP sensor output is out of range. The PCM relies very heavily on that signal. You stated you changed it, but did you measure the output signal on the old one or the new one? Did you trace the signal wires back to the PCM?

Code 31 indicates the EGR output signal is below 0.24 VDC when the valve should be closed. Is there a EGR valve and EVP sensor still on the truck?

 

the truck still has the EGR and EVP (but no EVAP system) but it is disconnected at the vac line, if i connect it the truck runs like COMPLETE crap and miss fires. im probably just going to buy a block off plate for it..

i let the truck warm up as warm as it will go, she usually runs 185-190 degrees, but i try to warm it up to at least 200 for the test.

and no i didnt check the voltages (multimeter was stolen ughh...couldent adjust my TPS either) but the MAP was supposedly bad when i got the truck (when it ran great) i only replaced it because the PO said i should. what confuses me is i thought i was suppose to have a BARO with no vac line? but i have the vac MAP..hmm?

this truck is on its 2nd computer, 2nd engine, 2nd frame, and soon 2nd bed... lord i have a whole new truck pretty much!


now something i have been throwing around in my head...this truck SUPPOSEDLY has a crown vic 5.0 (from the old box body) so what would the difference be between the truck block/heads and the truck block/heads?


EDIT: again just wanted to say thanks for the help yall, im determined to fix this problem and without this forum id be more lost then i am. i may seem stubborn but what mechanic isnt..trust me im listening and considering EVERYTHING thats said.

 

You have a MAP sensor, not Baro. There needs to be a vacuum line between the MAP sensor and manifold vacuum.

There is no reason to adjust a TPS as long as the closed throttle output signal is between 0.6 - 1.0 VDC on these trucks. The PCM is designed to look for the minimum closed throttle TPS value every time the truck is started and running then adjust itself accordingly. Trying to adjust one is futile and a waste of time.

 

i have the MAP hooked directly to the vac tree.

and i was under the impression that you didnt have to adjust a TPS, but people were telling me i need to adjust it. i wish i had a multimeter to read the signal, because the computer tells me its out of range.

the engine SHAKES VIOLENTLY at idle, so much infact that it shook loose the wire on the radio interference preventer (i know it has a special name, but im sure you know what i mean) thats attached to the coil bracket.

when about 1 out of 3 times i shift into reverse she instantly dies. and without adjusting my TV line my shift points seemed to have moved up (sometimes it wont hit 2nd till 4k!) and when she needs to downshift when coming to a stop (considering the engine is shaking like a paint shaker on meth) it jerks and clunks into gear...transmission never gave me problems before the motor. ugh.

 

check out this video, coolant is about 150 miles old and i flushed it about 3 times before i put it in. it foams, smokes, and pukes out like this with the motor cold, motor hot, heat on, and heat off. all air pockets have been puked from the system before the head gasket or w/e started causing issues. as bad as a head gasket is im relieved i think i narrowed down my problems. compression test will be done in an hour or so...

Bad 5.0 - YouTube

 

bump, anybody have any imput after seeing the video