I got a real problem.

My Ford F-150 4x4 302 EFI has a rusted frame. I didn't even know it until I was gonna put a class 3 hitch to pull my 18' camper. The rust is where the front of the leaf spring connect to the frame. I sure hate to lose this truck. Runs like a top and I'm really attached to the old lady.

Anyone got suggestions??? I found some frames for sale but don't think I wanna tackle such a major job.

Rick Ferris
Ohio

 

Find a GOOD certified welder at an industrial fabrication shop to repair it for you.

Sounds like someone carried a battery in the bed and let it dump acid out of the drain hole in the corner...

 

Is the frame swiss cheese, or is it just rusty? There are also a lot of holes drilled through it back there.

 

Theres a lot bolted on in that spot. I guess it looks like swiss cheese to me. Does anyone think its fixable?

Rick

 

Anything is fixable, but it will take some time and effort. I would measure the height of the frame, and the width of the upper and lower rails, as well as the length of the area that you want to fix, and take those numbers to a metal supply shop. Also measure on the inside. Ask them if they have any c-channel, about 1/4" wall thickness that will fit tightly over or inside of the frame rail. Then you will have to make a cardboard template of all the bolt holes that are in use, and drill those out of the new piece. Then, using bolts to hold the new piece to the frame tightly, either weld it yourself, or have it welded. IIRC, there is nothing special about the steel in the frame, so you don't have to pre-heat it or check your interpass temperature, just make sure you don't get it to hot while welding. Waiting about 2-3 minutes between passes should be sufficient. Make sure there is enough meat left in the frame where you do weld it, and the component bolts should also help to hold it together.

 

Ford-Six,

What time should I drop it off at your house?...rofl Seriously thanks for the info. I will look around to see if I can find someone locally to do the work.

Rick

 

Plating the frame is an easy way to go to get rid of the swiss cheese. The only problem is you might want to check the inspection laws. Some states will not pass the vehicle for inspection if the frame has been welded/plated.
If you've found good frames and the above stipulation is in effect where you are located the swap isn't that hard of a thing to do

 

You would be better off making the patch longer then it has to be and bolting it instead of welding.When you weld on a frame you weeken the metal and make it brittle, and thats the last thing that you want to do especally if your going to be pulling a trailer.If the bad spot is by the spring hanger it might be eayser to put the patch on the inside that way you won't be bothering any of the mounts that are there.

 

There are several different grades of steel, and that which the frame is made of isn't too bad with heat. But that is why I recommended waiting between weld passes. To get technical, you -should- wait until the temperature has returned to ~400* 1" from the weld before making another pass. But, another 100* wouldn't hurt it. Besides, there is enough meat in the frame to soak up the heat pretty quick.
Oh yeah, I am a certified welder.

 

There are several different grades of steel, and that which the frame is made of isn't too bad with heat. But that is why I recommended waiting between weld passes. To get technical, you -should- wait until the temperature has returned to ~400* 1" from the weld before making another pass. But, another 100* wouldn't hurt it. Besides, there is enough meat in the frame to soak up the heat pretty quick.
Oh yeah, I am a certified welder.

 

Then after you have that all taken care of, STOP that rust for-ever with POR-15

 

Jared,

What is your take on this?

I read in a welding book when splicing/plating a frame, or any two large pieces of metal, you should never weld the patch all the way around the edge. It causes stress in the metal, which will make it crack. The book said weld along the patch, perpedicular to the shortest dimension of the metal you are splicing. In other words, on a frame, only weld the top and bottom of the patch horizontally, not the sides vertically.

Have you ever heard about this or seen any failures because of this?

 

Yeah, but your patch shouldn't be that short (horizontally), AND should never have square ends. For the most strength with low weight and low risk of stress-cracks, it should look like a tall thin bowtie laid on its side. Maybe I can draw it in text:

__________
> . . . . . . <
------------

(The dots are just spaceholders.)
The distance between the middle points should be more than the bad area, and the points should be ~60°.

 

What is POR-15 and where do you get it????????

 

http://www.por15.com/