Ah Back once again c6 still not shifting got it out of a tranny shop and they tried to scam me fortunatly i know enough to where they could not pull there fast one.

Still having that late shift, I talk to a guy on CL named bob he told me to pull the shift cable If it shifts properly then its shift linkage problems...


If it does not shift on time to the next gear Then its internal problems.

What can cause a old c6 to change shift points from 20 to 30

and 30 to 50

Sounds very bad to me... Fortunatly a new Tranny done by a pro of 25 years will only cost me 500 bucks rebuilt

Just making sure what would be the process of pulling my shifter cable.

 

What year is the vehicle to start with? Engine etc.

Do you want the shift points raised or lowered?

 

75 ranchero 6.6L I figured out the problem I had to disable my shift linkage It shifts smooth as a babies bottem now... Is it safe to leave of the shift linkage?

I was hoping just to tweek the modulator a tiny bit for more firm shift and leave it unhooked.

 

What are you calling the shift linkage?

 

Its a Long metal Rod that goes from the carb to the tranny.

 

Ok, that's not called shift linkage.

Throttle rod or TV rod and is used only for passing gear. If it was in the down position the shift points will be raised. There must be a small return spring at the carb.

Shift linkage is the gear shift lever and connected components.

 

yep.... But That had to be removed in order for it to shift properly.

 

Heres my findings " re: Kickdown/Passing Gear

by 68F250 on Wed Dec 22, 2004 2:00 pm
It's normal for the transmissions to short-shift in our trucks when you don't have your foot into it, that's the way they are set up from the factory.

As an example, here are the shift speeds for a 3.54 ratio with a 31" tall tire (from the '68 Shop Manual):

Part throttle
1-2 shift @ 6-8 mph
2-3 shift @ 6-17 mph

To kickdown detent (this is the best the vacuum modulator can do)
1-2 shift @ 25-37 mph
2-3 shift @ 46-62 mph

Through detent (W.O.T. this is where the kickdown comes in)
1-2 shift @ 33-41 mph
2-3 shift @ 61-70 mph

Personally I would hook up the downshift rod because it serves two purposes. One is it allows you to force the tranny to downshift at higher rpms and hold that downshift longer before it upshifts. Second, and probably more important, it boosts the line pressure to keep the band and clutches from slipping under load."


This was pulled from another site... I do not want that rod on there if it will make me rev at high rpm and make me sluggish. Not worth Letting that rod burn up my transmission. "No vehicle should be revving up to about 3k before shifting" you will grind the hell out of your first gear and damage your second gear. No vehicle should also be winding out to 50-60 to third gear....


Btw

It also is A Kick down/Passing Gear rod.

 

Adjust the tv linkage and install a return spring.

 

TV linkage and there is a return spring already for it.. but there is really no way to adjust it because My peddle will sit to low then... I don't need my peddle sitting directly on the carpet/floor

 

Correct the low pedal problem and the rest will probably go away.

 

Its no longer low It has not been low since i did my own work... Even if it will not fix it i tried adjusting it before its a kick down issue..

 

First, Your C-6 won't be harmed by running without the Throttle Valve Rod attached. Your Vacuume Modulator affects line pressure rise and shift timing, and you can adjust your modulator to give you some passing gear action when needed. But it is nice to have the positive kickdown from the TV rod.
Second, it sounds like you have the rod set up to follow the carb linkage open and CLOSED, Ford style carbs should have a small lever for the throttle valve rod, behind the main linkage arm, so that about half way through the arc the linkage contacts the TV lever and it is moved to its limit, by a wide open throttle. But so that it does not need to follow the carb linkage all the way back to closed throttle. The return spring on the rod should pull it back far enough to not affect the shift timing untill you are into the throttle enough to move the rod.
So, the first part of your carb opening will not move the rod, at some mid point, the carb will reach the lever and begin to move the rod as it opens to full throttle.
Does that make sense? Obviously not all aftermaket carbs have the Ford TV lever set-up. If you don't have the extra lever, you can hook it up like a Chrysler, with a sloted rod that fits over the carb linkage stud. The linkage stud moves in the slot untill some mid-point when it reaches the end of the slot and begins to move the rod. In either case, you must determine the proper adjustment to move the TV rod to it's limit on the trans, at WOT, and also allow the carb to fully close at idle. Proper length of slot is key on the Chrysler set-up.
NOTE: Both set-ups need to allow the carb to close even if the TV rod sticks at full extension. And both use a seperate return spring to help prevent sticking .
Hope this helps.

 

helps alot... I was thinking i could use one of those slotted rods... cause it should not make that much contact..