Adoing a re gasket job time for some tips?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-11-2012, 10:45 PM
flipklos's Avatar
flipklos
flipklos is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wahpeton ND
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Adoing a re gasket job time for some tips?

Ok it has been awhile. Got a 50 farmall cub going and repainted my 64s bumpers and grill.

On to the engine!

Pulled her out today. Found that I do not have pet***** on the block so I pulled the pipe plugs. No flow. After raming a screwdriver in with a hammer on both sides I flowed a ton of crud out. Real yummy rust and such.

I am throwing on a set of 5752 heads and doing a complete re-gasket as I am peeing enough oil to keep rust at bay on the engine and tranny for a good long time but was wondering if any one knows a good way to flush the coolant passages in the bottom of the block short of a full dissasembly. I do intend to remove the front cover while I am at this so it will be nearly completely disssasembled. A quick pull with a bore gauge and caliper showed me 3.812 for a bore size. I will do a better job with a mic and on several axis tomorrow to determine If a quick re ring is in order as well. Wear ridges are hit and miss. so I aint sure on rings yet.

Any quick tips on re-gasketing would also be appreciated. Any suggestions on freshining the coolant passeges?
 
  #2  
Old 07-12-2012, 01:55 AM
46yblock's Avatar
46yblock
46yblock is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I would try flushing it all out before tear down. Multiple times with multiple apps of flush compound. If you do a good job the raidator should be pulled and filled from the bottom side, and hopefully most of the debris will drop out that has collected in its top. Put the cap on then fill and then undo cap. Again multiple times (helper required).

The heads can be helped with either hot tank cleaning, or solvent cleaning followed by bead blasting into the coolant openings. It takes some time, and lots of shaking and blowing to get the media out.
Clean the intake like the heads. Either hot tank or solvent cleaned followed by bead blasting.

It sounds like you may be lucky in only needing a ring job. Use cast rings. Hone with one of the ball hones.
As for cleaning deck and head gasket surfaces, dont use one of the fiber discs with an air die grinder. They remove METAL.

Light grease on each side of intake gasket. Antiseize compound on each side of exhaust manifold gaskets.
 
  #3  
Old 07-12-2012, 03:42 PM
charliemccraney's Avatar
charliemccraney
charliemccraney is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
Likes: 0
Received 51 Likes on 46 Posts
A coat hanger through the various holes on the deck surface. It will be a lot easier if you do this on an engine stand. Then you can poke around from the top and flip it over and hose it out
 
  #4  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:20 PM
flipklos's Avatar
flipklos
flipklos is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wahpeton ND
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Already sitting on the stand. Took the heads off. I am replacing the C1TE heads with 5752-113s.

I flushed the radiator clean already by leaving a garden hose in it for 20 min and changing the angle of the dangle a few times. I want to get the bulk of the crud out for now. When it is reinstalled I will cycle viniger and water and plain water trough a few times to shine the guts up a bit.

Grease on the intake?
 
  #5  
Old 07-12-2012, 08:32 PM
46yblock's Avatar
46yblock
46yblock is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Yes, a light application to both sides of the gaskets. Not so much that it oozes out with tightening. It seals if surfaces are clean, and prevents sticking the next time removal is needed, saving a lot of time and often allowing for reuse of gaskets.
 
  #6  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:29 PM
flipklos's Avatar
flipklos
flipklos is offline
Cargo Master
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wahpeton ND
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Ok, a quick update.

The timing chain is loose so I am going to replace that. All the bores measured out at 3.812 so they are only .002 over. I aint even going to fuss with rings for now.

I am going to have to try and weld that clutch piviot point back on with some nickel rod.
I just dont think brazing will have the oomph to hold up well.

By chance does anyone have a stock drivers side exhaust they would be willing to part with.
 
  #7  
Old 07-18-2012, 01:08 AM
46yblock's Avatar
46yblock
46yblock is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 2,688
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by flipklos
Ok, a quick update.

The timing chain is loose so I am going to replace that. All the bores measured out at 3.812 so they are only .002 over. I aint even going to fuss with rings for now.

I am going to have to try and weld that clutch piviot point back on with some nickel rod.
I just dont think brazing will have the oomph to hold up well.

By chance does anyone have a stock drivers side exhaust they would be willing to part with.
I have the drivers side exhaust. Be careful on the clutch pivot. A guy came over here tonight to pickup a flywheel. His lever/fork for the release bearing suddenly broke sending him down the road. Chewed up the flywheel, and clutch.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rchalmers3
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
68
03-13-2014 09:02 AM
jayton4
Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L)
8
12-19-2011 05:26 PM
1969furd
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
05-08-2010 04:30 PM
superejboy
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
11
11-20-2007 02:31 PM
dtek001
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
11-05-2007 10:27 PM



Quick Reply: Adoing a re gasket job time for some tips?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:05 PM.