Need Help
#1
Need Help
I found a 1949 F3 for sale that i want to possibly buy. What should i look for when i go to look at it?? whats a good price to pay for this? From what i understand its complete but has been sitting for many years. Im new to this and i love these trucks anything you guys think i should seriously consider looking at when i go to check this truck out?? Any help would be awesome.
#2
I'm certainly no expert on these trucks and I'm sure the experts will chime in here soon. The best advice I can offer is take photos, write down the vin, look the truck over front to back and top to bottom, ask plenty of questions if the owner is able to answer them of course and take them with a grain of salt, and do plenty of reaserch on your own. I know that everyone will always try to get more for anything but search CL and eBay and other old car sites to see what is being asked for a 49 F3 and what condition it's in. Hope this helps
Oh yeah and I'm sure plenty of people are going to ask where you're located and where the truck is located too.
Take care happy truck hunting to you
Oh yeah and I'm sure plenty of people are going to ask where you're located and where the truck is located too.
Take care happy truck hunting to you
#3
I think everything depends on price as far as the condition you will be looking for. But I'd look at the body panels for large rot or dents, frame for any signs of an accident so you know it's not bent, body mounts to make sure there solid, drivetrain for leaks, smoking, etc. the tires if they claim it's drive able.
I paid 2000 for my 55 f100. Guy wanted 4 but he claimed it was a runner, which it was far from that so I offered him what I felt the body was worth. And it was solid, no rot at all and all panels were in great shape dent wise.
My only suggestion is do your homework on these trucks and go look at it. Make a mental note of what you see that needs to be done, go home and do some research about costs to repair said items and see if you can manage it.
It's better to be able to drive something than to have it sit for 20 years cause there's no funding for it. That's not enjoyable.
Good luck and we like pictures if you end up buying it.
I paid 2000 for my 55 f100. Guy wanted 4 but he claimed it was a runner, which it was far from that so I offered him what I felt the body was worth. And it was solid, no rot at all and all panels were in great shape dent wise.
My only suggestion is do your homework on these trucks and go look at it. Make a mental note of what you see that needs to be done, go home and do some research about costs to repair said items and see if you can manage it.
It's better to be able to drive something than to have it sit for 20 years cause there's no funding for it. That's not enjoyable.
Good luck and we like pictures if you end up buying it.
#4
We like pictures even if you don't buy it. The experts here can give you some great information by looking at the pictures. One thing about the F3 is that it is less popular than the F1 so it's worth less. Parts may be harder to find for some things.
You also need to check the wheels to see if they are widow makers. I'm not sure what size truck starts using those, but they must be replaced and can be hard to find some replacements. Pictures will help determine some of that.
Here are a couple of great articles for you to read regarding figuring out where you want to go.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK: Part 1 .: Articles
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK: Part 2 .: Articles
TRIALS OF A FIRST TIME BUILDER
And did I say pictures.
We love to help other people spend money on these trucks. We also want to make sure you get something you can be happy with and a lot of that depends on your wrenching skills and budget.
You also need to check the wheels to see if they are widow makers. I'm not sure what size truck starts using those, but they must be replaced and can be hard to find some replacements. Pictures will help determine some of that.
Here are a couple of great articles for you to read regarding figuring out where you want to go.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK: Part 1 .: Articles
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK: Part 2 .: Articles
TRIALS OF A FIRST TIME BUILDER
And did I say pictures.
We love to help other people spend money on these trucks. We also want to make sure you get something you can be happy with and a lot of that depends on your wrenching skills and budget.
#6
I agree with everything said so far, but I would also like to add:
Make sure it has a clear title. You don't want to spend a lot, or even a little money on something just to find out you don't legally own it.
If they say it has a title, don't hand over any cash until it's in your name.
Make sure it has a clear title. You don't want to spend a lot, or even a little money on something just to find out you don't legally own it.
If they say it has a title, don't hand over any cash until it's in your name.
Not so. Appears that when Indiana dumped the paper titling system for a digital version sometime after 1983 (the year I was given the truck), they had mis-entered the year, and had it as a 1979 instead of a '49. This has caused all sorts of problems that I have yet to get resolved. Seems they can't just fix the incorrect entry, but want several affidavits signed and sworn to by a law enforcement officer stating that the truck is not stolen, and that the VIN is correct. What a pain.
#7
I see that you are in NY, and if the truck is in NY state also, there won't be a title, but it would have a 'transferable registration'. Having sat for many years, they might not have one, but if they are the last registered owner, they can get a duplicate, otherwise expect a lot of hassle from NY DMV over that issue.
Also, being in NY (don't know what part of the state you are in) if it's been out in a field all this time be very careful in checking the frame for rust and rot. Even if it's been stored inside, still check, for if it had been put away in the winter months chances are there was a good coating of salt on everything.
Also, being in NY (don't know what part of the state you are in) if it's been out in a field all this time be very careful in checking the frame for rust and rot. Even if it's been stored inside, still check, for if it had been put away in the winter months chances are there was a good coating of salt on everything.
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#8
Welcome Smalls!
My offering:
Take a flashlight and a screw driver when you visit the truck. Use the flashlight to check all the fenders and the underbody condition. Check the rear corners of the cab and the running boards - including the attachment to the fenders - for rust. Use the screw driver to poke a bit on fenders and body parts to understand where good starts and bad ends.
Try the brakes - assume the lines an MC will need to be replaced. Check the fuel line - these clog - and the tank - these rust. Anyone who insists that 'it ran when parked' should be nodded at knowingly and then mainly ignored regarding engine condition statements.
Give the wiring a once over. The original insulation - if present - will be dry, cracked, and ineffective. Look for field modifications and try to understand the reason for the change.
Sit in the truck - look out over the hood - remember to put your game face back on after making 'vroom-vroom' noises.
Understand that this is not an investment in anything other than happiness. These beauties do not guarantee a financial return for either time or money spend. They do often provide a incalculable return for that things that matter - time with family, refuge from other issues, or just getting a simile and a thumbs up from those who see you grinning like a goof as you motor along.
'Tis a most worthy folly.
DW
My offering:
Take a flashlight and a screw driver when you visit the truck. Use the flashlight to check all the fenders and the underbody condition. Check the rear corners of the cab and the running boards - including the attachment to the fenders - for rust. Use the screw driver to poke a bit on fenders and body parts to understand where good starts and bad ends.
Try the brakes - assume the lines an MC will need to be replaced. Check the fuel line - these clog - and the tank - these rust. Anyone who insists that 'it ran when parked' should be nodded at knowingly and then mainly ignored regarding engine condition statements.
Give the wiring a once over. The original insulation - if present - will be dry, cracked, and ineffective. Look for field modifications and try to understand the reason for the change.
Sit in the truck - look out over the hood - remember to put your game face back on after making 'vroom-vroom' noises.
Understand that this is not an investment in anything other than happiness. These beauties do not guarantee a financial return for either time or money spend. They do often provide a incalculable return for that things that matter - time with family, refuge from other issues, or just getting a simile and a thumbs up from those who see you grinning like a goof as you motor along.
'Tis a most worthy folly.
DW
#10
Pictures are known to lie like a rug! you or a trusted competent agent should inspect it in person. Otherwise don't spend more money than you are willing to walk away from.
A cheap price on a project base is not always a good buy, quite often the opposite is true. There is a basic truth in this hobby: a drivable truck is going to cost 15-20K. You can start with a base in excellent condition that costs 10K and put an additional 5-10K and 2-5 years into finishing it, or you can start with a 300.00 rust bucket/basket case then spend 15-20K and 5- 15 years (or often never before selling or junking it) replacing/rebuilding nearly every part, before finish building it to drivable condition.
You do know that an F3 is a 1 ton truck that was originally equipped with transmission and rear axle geared for hauling heavy loads not highway driving, has wheel base, suspension, fender openings and wheel sizes much larger than a F1 (1/2T pickup)? Big jobs like this are usually much lower priced due to lack of demand and no reproduction or aftermarket parts availability.
A cheap price on a project base is not always a good buy, quite often the opposite is true. There is a basic truth in this hobby: a drivable truck is going to cost 15-20K. You can start with a base in excellent condition that costs 10K and put an additional 5-10K and 2-5 years into finishing it, or you can start with a 300.00 rust bucket/basket case then spend 15-20K and 5- 15 years (or often never before selling or junking it) replacing/rebuilding nearly every part, before finish building it to drivable condition.
You do know that an F3 is a 1 ton truck that was originally equipped with transmission and rear axle geared for hauling heavy loads not highway driving, has wheel base, suspension, fender openings and wheel sizes much larger than a F1 (1/2T pickup)? Big jobs like this are usually much lower priced due to lack of demand and no reproduction or aftermarket parts availability.
#11
#12
Pictures are worth a thousand words in this instance. Can you show us the ad? We can't really give you a good answer about whether or not it's a good deal unless we see it and how much he's asking. AX is right, the final price of these things usually ends up being the same when you're done. And pictures can indeed tell a lie.
#14
Think what you want this truck for and what your gonna use it for when done. Regular cruising and weekend tours your prob better off with the smaller f1 or f100. Hauling, short trips, and helpin out others cause you have a big truck I'd go with this type truck.
Also I guess where you live, city or county cause your gonna need room for a big truck like this vs the f1 where you can park it in your garage.
Also I guess where you live, city or county cause your gonna need room for a big truck like this vs the f1 where you can park it in your garage.