One thing I need to mention, the truck has an after market remote start. It works just fine in the morning, when it is cool, however in the afternoon when it is in the 90's it cranks but will not start.

Bluegrass 7, what type of Scanner would you suggest, so I make sure I get what I need.

Will the scanner identify a PCM switch for a particular cylinder coil?

 

I would disconnect the remote start.
You need to investigate everything that could be a possible cause.
An Innova mid grade in the $175 up range will to trapping or the one Sears sells is the same unit under their name.
Problem is when your looking at scanners you need to look at the book to tell. Then you need to understand what your reading as well as how to use the device. It just cannot be made simpler than it is.
Of course if a cylinder goes into trouble it will tell you which one by freeze framing the data.
After that you have to find it as a coil, a switch etc by testing.
.
There was just a similar case out of Canada where the PATS was being blamed for no start and stalling after starting when it was the remote start.
We told the poster the PATS cannot cause a stall once the motor is running but he was not convinced until he disconnected the Remote and the issue went away..
The more a vehichle is loaded with these things the more of a hassle you can expect later on. Only way is too educate yourself so you have half a chance to do repairs when the time comes or pay for it to be done.
Good luck.

 

Is there any significance to the engine braking that seemed to occur the morning after the swap out, that then has not occurred after that?

Also, the remote start is with an alarm. Should I disconnect the alarm as well. With that being said, should I have the alarm / remote start just totaly removed from the truck, will just disconnecting them be good enough??

 

On the ride in this morning, truck did IT all the way in and very sporadicly. It was also from the faintest little bump, on up the the hard buck or stutter. However, CEL came on just as I was pulling into parking spot. I haven't purchased scan tool yet. I want to make sure I get all that I need and not too much that I will never be able to use. I do plan on picking up one tomorrow to use as I drive and see what it may detect. I did stop at Advance Auto and was able to borrow their scan tool and only pulled the P0340 code, which was one of the codes pulled last time into Ford shop where they came up with the whole internal timing thing.......... I have read the definition of this code and it seems fairly broad with it being "camshaft position sensor circuit" which lists:

a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
the camshaft position sensor may have failed
the PCM may have failed
there exists an open circuit
the crankshaft position sensor may have failed

I guess something like the PCM may be starting to fail could be a possibility.

Well, I don't want to speculate as I am flying by the seat of my pants on this and I am here to learn from everyone out there!

Does anyone know if I need OBD2 Live-Data Stream Display or OBD2 All modes 1-10?? Should it be able to pull transmission codes??

 

Get yourself a Haynes service book.
Look at pages 12-19 and 12-21.
There you will see power supply point "C" arrow.
Follow this circuit and you will see it supplies a lot of sensors and transmission control solenoids.
The cam position sensor being one.
Since you have the code and feel the trans was not acting quite right, I would look into the circuit harness and connectors at every point
looking for a cross , open or ground out.
Don't rule out the PCM connector if the problem is vibration sensitive.
Hold off on the scanner for now since you have something to go on because it will trap the same conditions.
Be sure fuse 23 is firmly set in place because it supplies the main power for all these points.
I know this is a tough one but hang in there until you run it down.
Good luck.

 

Bluegrass 7, what is your opinion on how far should I go with alarm / remote start. I have had the system for quite a few years, will just disconnecting it be sufficient, or would removing the entire system be better for this situation?

 

Just a disconnect to see if it is causing any issue.

 

Are you sure its not the transmission sticking? When's the last time the fluid was changed? The 4R70W will stick and cause a problem. Ford has an additive that may help, but I'd start with a fluid change and drive it for about 500 miles and see if that helps.

 

Sorry for the radio silence....

I am happy to report that after disconnecting my remote start, just to eliminate it as suggested which did not fix it, and knowing that I do not have the knowledge of truly trouble shoot an electrical system, I looked to the sky and decided to try another Ford dealer in my area. Gave them the P0340 code story and just asked them to troubleshoot and see if they could figure this out....PLEASE!!!!!! Service manager called back in first day and said lets try replacing the crankshaft positioning sensor, before we try troubleshooting the wiring. As they were replacing the sensor they noticed the multi pin connector was making a bad connection. Before they repaired the connector, they said they ran the truck and moved connector wiring and it did it every time. I haven't been able to put as many miles on it as I would have liked, but I have two days of driving with no incident.

I would like to thank all who contributed for you suggestions and supporting another Ford owner through some difficult times. A huge burden has been lifted and my faith in Ford products and honest dealer shops restored.

I leave you all remaining Ford Tough!!!

 

Good to hear.
The crank sensor is where everything starts as a reference point.
If there is no or intermittant signal from it nothing works.
Good luck..

 

Been a tough one, .....I have been following. It's a good day!