How Important is the Kickdown Rod?
#1
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
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How Important is the Kickdown Rod?
Do I really need one for an FMX? I have been looking around and apparently those things as made of pure gold. Most on Ebay want anywhere from $40-$100 for one. I'm tempted to try to make one myself if I really need it. Will the transmission shift okay if I leave the kickdown rod off?
#2
Here is my opinion Vern. It will shift, but won't downshift under a load.
I know this means nothing, but I had a'78 Bronco C6, it didn't have a kickdown when I bought it. It wasn't long and I burnt the friction plates up. Was it close to dying? I don't know. But that was what the tranny guy blamed it on.
I would be gentle with it, but not do without it for long.
This is an opinion, no guarantees expressed or implied, do not attempt this at home as some stunts can be dangerous to you progress...and can damage your wallet!
I know this means nothing, but I had a'78 Bronco C6, it didn't have a kickdown when I bought it. It wasn't long and I burnt the friction plates up. Was it close to dying? I don't know. But that was what the tranny guy blamed it on.
I would be gentle with it, but not do without it for long.
This is an opinion, no guarantees expressed or implied, do not attempt this at home as some stunts can be dangerous to you progress...and can damage your wallet!
#7
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#8
You can also use a cable to substitute for the rod. I've been running my Cobra for 20 years with out the kick down with no problems, mind you, I have never needed to kick it down a gear with the strongly built 429. When the secondary venturies kick in that is all it needs to get moving, the car is fairly light. It shifts manually quite nicely.
#10
I made one once for a guy and it went like this.
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
#11
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
Posts: 8,808
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I made one once for a guy and it went like this.
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
First try, I used 1/4 rod, carefully bent it to fit up the back of the bellhouseing right to the carb linkage, welded on a 3 or 4 inch piece of flat stock (slotted for the carb linkage) and thought I was done,,,,wrong.
The 1/4 rod flexed too much when we mashed down on the pedal and it would cycle in and out of 2nd.
So, I made the entire bar again, thic time out of 7/16 cold rolled rod, welded a short section of 1/4 to the tranny end (to fit the kickdown lever) and the same slotted flat stock at the carb end,,,this time it worked great.
It wasn't hard to do, it just took several trips under the car marking the bends and twists needed, a bit of welding and we were in buisness.
Gary
Thanks. That sounds doable if I can't locate an original rod...
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