What vaccum lines/smog stuff can I remove that will not hurt my truck's performance and possibnly even make it run better? Are there any pics on this website that show step by step so I do not mess my truck up? I know this has been done, I just cannot find any pictures of what I need to leave in place and what needs to come out. I am not interested in the legal aspects of this. This truck is rarely driven and in GA it is old enough to not have to worry about.

Abraham

 

You need vacuum lines to your power booster, spark advance, HVAC controls, PCV and automatic choke. If you want, you can remove the line to your EGR but do it at your own risk.

Guys on here are going to tell you not to remove it but the probability of that valve still working are low.

 

If it's running fine now, don't mess with the lines.

 

I agree with what both the above posters said. If its running fine, leave it alone, but if you decide to pull em anyway, what wycked said is what you can get away with.

 

The choke is messing up and after I drive about 10-15 miles the truck shuts off. About 5 mins later it will start right back up.

Fuel Filter is fine

At the front of the carb on the right (as you are looking at it) there is a round cyclinder infront of the linkage with a wire comming out of it, what is that for?

I wantd to remove the vaccum lines to rule them out.

Abraham

 

random, but does it look like this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...k-is-this.html

 

Sounds like the idle stop solenoid.
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Removing the vacuum lines will only lead to more frustration.

 

Oh. My truck doesn't have that.

 

Vacuum problems wouldn't cause your stalling behavior. A chunk of debris in the fuel tank, or an overheating coil/ignition box would. A bad or misadjusted float might do so as well.

 

I believe that is what we used to call a "dash pot". back in the day it was used to control the stalling AND flooding of the engine. I think that is a new style of the same thing. If someone else knows if/ how to ajust it please chime in. Popa John

 

Can you operate the throttle without the solenoid moving? Put 12V to it and see what it does. If 12V kicks the throttle open a bit, then it is a fast idle solenoid and not part of your problem.

 

As depicted in the picture (right front) that is what I was asking about. How do I know if it is working properly? What does it do?

I will replace all vacuum lines and leave in place as suggested. I will replace silver box located on left side (driver's side) of truck first and then coil.

Thank you very much

 

Ok,, I will weigh in here,,,, I took ALL that crap off my 77 351Measly,, I have ported vac. going to dist.,,, had to turn the allen head on the input a bit to get better advance,,, have PCV and Brake booster and that is it,, put a 4bbl on it and it is a NEW engine,,, runs alot better,, no stumbling, gagging and running like a pig,,,, If you don't have smog,, take ALL that crap off,,, one vac. ported to dist. PCV and power brake booster,, you will be much happier!!

 

Like Popajon and Bigblue88 mentioned it is a electric fast idle solenoid that operates to give a fast idle under certain conditions. When the A/C is on it activates and holds the throttle partially open.

To test hold the throttle slightly open and put 12v power to the lead. If the rod pops out then it is functional. Normally it wouldn't have enough "grunt" to open the throttle by itself.

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