The centrifuge seems to be doing what it's supposed to, but I can confirm what lots of other people have said: a pressure-operated centrifuge (mine is a PA Biodiesel 120 GPH model) does not get the carbon out of used motor oil. Maybe a direct-driven, higher-RPM centrifuge would do a better job; I don't know.
How many RPM's does your centrifuge spin? and how big is it in terms of inches across? The one I am using spins almost 8,000 RPM but is only 5 inchs across, so the gravitatinal effect is less then a bigger 12-14" one.
I did try a batch of old WMO I had a few Months back and all I seemed to do was get what little water was in it all mixed up, it turned grey and fell right to the bottom of a 50/50 WMO/WVO mix.
a couple mornings ago, i was getting up to speed, and when i hit 45, i lost power for about 3 seconds, then it recovered to normal power. this was about half a mile from home, as i was just starting out for the day.
the night before, i filled the tank at my usual spot, drove the 15 miles home, then poured in 1.5 gallons of WMO, and it sat overnight.
is it possible the oil settled and the engine got a shot of straight oil, or is it more likely to be a total coincidence? its been great since then, and i am saving some diesel
a couple days ago i opened one of my other drums of WMO and drew some out of the bottom for non-engine use. what i found there had a strong smell of stale gasoline (at the time i used gas for parts cleaner and it went in with the waste oil). its flammability suggested about a 50% gas-oil ratio. when i get around to it, will this be safe to run my truck on, or does this sound like "bad" stuff i should stay out of? also, does the gas tend to settle at the bottom of the barrel, leaving the higher levels with heavier oils?
FWIW, when pulling oil for engine consumption, i have a probe at about the halfway point of the barrel that i'm pulling from, and my current barrel is sitting at about 2/3. how far down the barrel would y'all advise i go before i grab the next barrel?
I pull my veg oil from the very top, my pump moves ALOT of oil so even at half way down it will start to lift the heavy crap off the bottom and mix it in. I use a clear hose on the suction side so I can see what is going in, hard to do with WMO but I suggest the very top and just work your way down as the fluid level drops.
good to know. i'm still using a harbor-freight hand pump, so i like to set the tubes in place and forget them as i stroke the handle. i'll raise the tube to being only about 5 gallons below the line before my next pull.
also, my standard method of operation is to pull off the barrel into the filter, which goes into a 5 gallon container, where it sits until i pour off the top of it into my tank, never reaching the bottom of the container. hopefully this serves as a secondary settling point for any water or whatever may have gotten past my filter
and tonight i opened the third barrel i have laying around, just to see what was on the bottom. i pulled about 2 gallons of what sounded like water, but looked dirty like oil or something, and burned much like the stuff in my last post when i tested it by tossing a little on a fire. whatever it is, it won't be going in my engine.
would i be safe pulling each barrel until its down to 1/4 or how far do y'all think??
Jeffery Brooks makes some really wild claims and has been banned from many forums.
I have a WVO Designs 'fuge. I made my own heater element.
It all working really well. I have $2200 into my setup. This includes 6 IBC totes, pallet racking, the 'fuge, and 20+ 55 gallon barrels that I buy from a local oil distributer.
I settle in the totes for a few weeks, occasionally draining off the water, then it goes through my heater and into the 'fuge.
I'm even selling my excess to a previous employer for his dump trucks (10% wmo mix).
I using 75%wmo/25% K1 in my '92 IDI.
I did have to upgrade to a larger fuel filter assembly. I felt that the engine was stalling in colder temperatures due to the flow limitations of the factory filter. I'm going to install a reefer tank in the bed and relocate my filter near it with a e-pump.
thought i'd give a quick update on how my fuel is working out for me...
i got tired of playing with that rotten HFT hand pump, so i assembled a 1/4hp 120v motor and a power steering pump from a 91 toyota pickup, and got myself into a pretty good transfer pump for pushing between barrels or from barrel to my filter bag, etc. its a simple belt-driven setup mounted to a thick piece of plywood, and it works great. right now the suction hose is a 6 foot piece of garden hose, and the outlet is a piece of 3/8 trans cooler hose, as those were what i had handy that matched the pump.
as for my oil supply, the new pump gave me the motivation to pull a little more off my other 2 barrels (see post 19 above), and found that the first of these barrels has a gasoline odor even when i just open the cap, and its viscosity is quite thin. i pulled several gallons from it and added them to the barrel thats inside (which i always pull from), then opened my third barrel, which lacks the gasoline smell and has a viscosity i would estimate around 30wt. i then moved a few gallons from here into the barrel i have inside, as i didn't want too much of that gasoline mix going into my tank.
any concerns about mixing these 2 barrels and running it at my usual 10% mix, or does that gasoline odor raise any serious red flags i need to stay away from??
the viscosity of that barrel tells me it has a lot more gas in there than i realized. but looking at your post there, it sounds like if i stick my my conservative mix with diesel, i'm pretty safe - and even more so if i mix barrels
thats what i was hoping. i think i'll pull several gallons from each barrel, add both to my primary (inside) barrel, and pull from there into the filter, from which it goes in the truck.
as an update, my use has evolved to about 20% WMO, and i'm having a lot more issues with the high-power/low-power games normally associated with air intrusion while running. however, i've found no sign of leakage in my lines, and find the issue to be equal on both tanks, and not dependent on the quantity of fuel in the tanks, implying the problem is forward of the tank selector valve. at one time, my water seperator leaked from its drain, as they're prone to doing, but my redneck patch appears to be holding, and with the amount of time spent on "super high power" mode (such that i can do 80MPH on about 1/4" of pedal), it appears that i either have an IP problem or an air leak.
also, when in this high power mode, the "diesel rattle" is MUCH more pronounced. its like someone took off the doghouse and gave my a ton more noise.
Josh, do you have a hand held vacuum pump ? Couldnt you hook up the vacuum pump at the lift pump and see if it holds a vacuum from the lift pump line to the tank or vice versa and from the lift pump to the fuel filter to the injectors and return line to see where your leak is if you have one ? I hope that makes sense. It does in my head LOL just seems that if you dont hold the vacuum then you can narrow down where your leak would be..
Jason... US Nat'l Guard unit 638th ASB
'85 F250 4x4, 6.9l, T19 4 spd.
"Greater love has no one than this, that he lay down his life for his friends." John 15:13
well i have yet to get around to testing it, but i realized something tonight that caught my attention. last night i filled both tanks till the pump's first cut-off and no further. after driving a good bit on the rear tank today, i decided to run about 10 miles on the front tank so i would have room to mix a little WMO in there too. having switched back to the rear, i drove the next 30 miles home. having gotten home, i stuck a funnel in the rear tank and poured a couple gallons, then moved the funnel to the front tank, and had only poured about half a gallon before it overflowed.
this is pointing me toward a problem in the tank selector valve, as there should have been about a gallon of space when i left the gas station, and i opened up another 2/3 of a gallon by driving 10 miles on that tank.
that being said, it appears i have the air intrusion on both tanks, including when they're dead full.
and i remember having a 3-port valve go bad in a gasser such that it just sucked air one day and wouldn't get fuel to the carb. i'm wondering if my valve is starting to go that way, but obviously hasn't gotten that severe yet. so far, its symptoms are minor, both in fuel transfer and suspected air leakage - but that makes this the ideal time to correct the problem while i'm still getting on down the road!
i've seen differing opinions about the valve offered at oreillys, any thoughts on it?
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