Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Power window ground

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-07-2012, 05:32 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Power window ground

Passenger side power window would not go up, consistently anyway.

So I found that's it's a ground issue (the red and black wire) now... Where is it grounded at?

Also my left rear blinker/brake light is not working and seems to be a ground issue.

Related?

If not related can I just patch into the red/black wire w a jumper ground?

Thanks for any help
 
  #2  
Old 07-07-2012, 05:35 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
P.S.
When I ground the wire, the window does operate correctly from the passenger side but the driverside switch does not work for the passenger side. Only the driverside.

Also It does not fix the tail light issue so I assume they are unrelated but thought I'd ask.
 
  #3  
Old 07-07-2012, 07:48 PM
farmert's Avatar
farmert
farmert is online now
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: western SD
Posts: 4,730
Received 515 Likes on 249 Posts
Sounds as if you have a bad drivers side switch for the passenger window. The switches reverse the current polarity for the window motors. The rear brake and turn signal are not related to the window problem. If the tail light works, and not the turn signal, I would look at the bulb. If niether work the ground may be curroded.
 
  #4  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:17 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok I'll start with the driver side switch tomorrow...

The tail light does work but I've put two new bulbs in, with the same result.
 
  #5  
Old 07-07-2012, 11:49 PM
farmert's Avatar
farmert
farmert is online now
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: western SD
Posts: 4,730
Received 515 Likes on 249 Posts
Check the power wires for the brake light, especially the square 4 wire connector near the rear bumper on the drivers side frame rail. Pull the connector apart to see if there is any corrosion on the pins.
 
  #6  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:25 AM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just swaped the fuel tanks so that very well may be the problem... Thank you for the help
 
  #7  
Old 07-09-2012, 08:10 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok so still no luck on window...
Driver side has a red/black that is hot when in up position, yellow/blk that is hot in down position... How do they need to be on the passenger side?
Is there a color diagram as to where each wire needs to go in the passenger side block?
The window was broken when I got it so it's safe to say its been tampered with.

Thanks again for any help
 
  #8  
Old 07-10-2012, 04:22 AM
hookedondiesel's Avatar
hookedondiesel
hookedondiesel is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Rockland Ontario
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by halaferd
Ok so still no luck on window...
Driver side has a red/black that is hot when in up position, yellow/blk that is hot in down position... How do they need to be on the passenger side?
Is there a color diagram as to where each wire needs to go in the passenger side block?
The window was broken when I got it so it's safe to say its been tampered with.

Thanks again for any help
What year is your truck, and is it a club cab?
 
  #9  
Old 07-10-2012, 06:56 AM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Haha wow I just realized I didn't give that info, sorry.
It's a 91 f250 ext cab, so just the two doors.
 
  #10  
Old 07-10-2012, 05:23 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, I got the windows working... Red/blk wire was broke in the bundle between the door jam on the driver side.
Now the left rear marker light... The green/orange wire is not hot, all the way bk to the steering column. The other 3 marker light wires are tho.
Wire separated from turn signal switch in steering column? It does not work for the hazard, left turn signal, or brake.
 
  #11  
Old 07-11-2012, 12:15 AM
farmert's Avatar
farmert
farmert is online now
Logistics Pro
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: western SD
Posts: 4,730
Received 515 Likes on 249 Posts
Originally Posted by halaferd
Ok, I got the windows working... Red/blk wire was broke in the bundle between the door jam on the driver side.
Now the left rear marker light... The green/orange wire is not hot, all the way bk to the steering column. The other 3 marker light wires are tho.
Wire separated from turn signal switch in steering column? It does not work for the hazard, left turn signal, or brake.
I have seen that plastic disc that the blinker lever attachest to, that is under the steering wheel, cause a no brake- blinker light problem. But in the one I saw it was both sides not working. The metal contact "buttons" were corroded.
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2012, 06:38 AM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well I'm pulling the steering wheel today so we shall see haha... The truck is still in "project" status so time isnt an issue haha.
I post results.... Or more questions tonight
 
  #13  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:49 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok so it was the signal switch... One of the "buttons" that makes contact w the wires on the switch had somehow gotten resesed and wouldn't make a connection. Tried to fix it with a dab of sauder but it failed. Ordering new one next week.
 
  #14  
Old 07-13-2012, 04:15 PM
38Chevy454's Avatar
38Chevy454
38Chevy454 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts
The old plastic connectors and switches can create some aggravating issues for sure. Plus add some corrosion on the contacts and you get the electrical issues.

Not quite the same as your window problem, but it is very common for the window motor to work fine, but the window does not go up, or is very jerky. The problem is the drive pins in the gearbox. The nylon round pins are supposed to transfer the torque, but they disintegrate. I have replaced mine with 1/4 inch nuts and it works great. Just the hassle to remove the P/W motor. Rest is easy to disassemble the cover plate and immediately obvious how and where the drive pins were. Keep this in mind if your wondows start going down not so smooth. It indicates the pins are failing.
 
  #15  
Old 07-13-2012, 06:47 PM
halaferd's Avatar
halaferd
halaferd is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok! The driver side is getting a little slow, so thats an option for down the road. Thanks
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
78_79ford
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
10
11-16-2014 12:13 PM
blueray
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
1
07-07-2014 10:56 AM
halaferd
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
07-07-2012 05:20 PM
NL544
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
3
02-06-2007 10:49 PM
jbomb
Excursion - King of SUVs
2
11-28-2005 04:01 PM



Quick Reply: Power window ground



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:14 PM.