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Rear bumper help

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  #1  
Old 07-07-2012, 03:42 PM
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Rear bumper help

The rear bumper on my 74 f250 is completely shot, so it has been torched off. I found an aftermarket bumper locally for a very good price, but it is on a 79 1/2 ton. If I have done my research correctly, the 79 has a wider frame than my 74. Would it be so much wider that I wouldn't be able to use the 79 rear bumper? Would I be able to make it work with some offset mounts? Let me know what you guys think.

Brandon
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:46 PM
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You could probably make it work but you would have to drill 4 new holes in the bumper to move the brackets out. You could make some custom bumper brackets if your up to the challenge.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:47 PM
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This is what I was thinking, just make some offsets to connect the existing brackets to the frame. I wasn't sure how much wider the frame really was, but from what I gather it is probably about 4" total. That would need roughly 2" offsets to make it work.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:49 PM
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Never mind that first post. That is for if your putting a highboy bumper on a 79. I would take some pipe and make some spacers. Then get some longer bolts. It should work fine.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:51 PM
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Gotcha, thanks for the answer. I think I should be able to make it work pretty easily.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JB78f150
Never mind that first post. That is for if your putting a highboy bumper on a 79. I would take some pipe and make some spacers. Then get some longer bolts. It should work fine.
I personally don't recomend this. It'll get it mounted but is a very weak method. Do not pull a trailer with it like this! Best way would be to move the brackets, second best would be to bend them to get the offset you need. IMO
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:14 PM
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Have you looked at your local pick a part?

I'm sure you can do what you're proposing...but after you finish, you might just realize you would've been happier getting the correct bumper for it in the first place.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:19 PM
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There isn't anything worth taking off any trucks in the junk yards here. Plus, at $5 I would be insane not to grab this aftermarket bumper. I'll be sure to post pictures when I get it so you can all see what I mean
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:37 PM
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If it's made out of metal it can be fixed.
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:38 PM
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Yes, but at a certain point some things just aren't worth fixing..
 
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:36 PM
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Where are you located B? I forget.
You could bring that beast and the bumper over and I can do almost any mods to it...as long as you plan on repainting it, chrome don't like heat.
 
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by big-ugly
The rear bumper on my 74 F250 is completely shot, so it has been torched off. I found an aftermarket bumper locally for a very good price, but it is on a 79 1/2 ton. If I have done my research correctly, the 79 has a wider frame than my 74. Would it be so much wider that I wouldn't be able to use the 79 rear bumper? Would I be able to make it work with some offset mounts? Let me know what you guys think.
If your 1974 F250 is a High Boy:

33 1/2" rear frame rails: 1973/77 F250 4WD (Highboys) & 1973/79 F350 Regular Cabs on the 140" wheelbase (1973/76 Super Camper Special, 1973/79 Trailer Special, 1977/79 Camper Special-Ford dropped "Super" after 1976).

These trucks were available with painted & chrome (Styleside) contoured rear bumpers and painted & chrome step bumpers / Contoured: The center of the bumper is dished inwards for the license plate.

The contoured bumpers are the same: 1964/66 F100/250 2WD, 1966 F100 4WD, 1967/77 F100/350, but the 1973/77 brackets are different than the 1964/72 brackets.

Step bumbers use different bumper brackets than the contoured bumpers. The step bumper brackets are "weak sisters" - CRAP! One tiny tap, the bumper sags down like an old swaybacked nag.

37 1/2" rear frame rails: All other 1973/79 F100/350's.

33 1/2" & 37 1/2" = This is the width between the inner frame rails behind the cab.
 
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Old 07-08-2012, 02:23 AM
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I never pull a trailer from a bumper so I wouldn't have a problem with mounting it with spacers.
 
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:09 AM
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What ever you do to make it fit just use heavy steel square tubing or something simuilar for spacers and HD hardware. Grade 8 ect....

Maybe hitting up a local welding/steel buisness could make it go faster?

And yes a frame mounted reciever hitch is always better that a bumper for towing, IMO
 
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Old 07-08-2012, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by FourXFord2
Where are you located B? I forget.
You could bring that beast and the bumper over and I can do almost any mods to it...as long as you plan on repainting it, chrome don't like heat.
I am in Beatrice. I am very confident in my skills to get it to fit, but I do appreciate the offer! Paint wise, I think I am going to have it powder coated. It would look really mean with a powder-coat finish.

Originally Posted by NumberDummy
If your 1974 F250 is a High Boy:

33 1/2" rear frame rails: 1973/77 F250 4WD (Highboys) & 1973/79 F350 Regular Cabs on the 140" wheelbase (1973/76 Super Camper Special, 1973/79 Trailer Special, 1977/79 Camper Special-Ford dropped "Super" after 1976).

These trucks were available with painted & chrome (Styleside) contoured rear bumpers and painted & chrome step bumpers / Contoured: The center of the bumper is dished inwards for the license plate.

The contoured bumpers are the same: 1964/66 F100/250 2WD, 1966 F100 4WD, 1967/77 F100/350, but the 1973/77 brackets are different than the 1964/72 brackets.

Step bumbers use different bumper brackets than the contoured bumpers. The step bumper brackets are "weak sisters" - CRAP! One tiny tap, the bumper sags down like an old swaybacked nag.

37 1/2" rear frame rails: All other 1973/79 F100/350's.

33 1/2" & 37 1/2" = This is the width between the inner frame rails behind the cab.
Yes my 74 is a highboy, and this information was great! Thank you NumberDummy!

Originally Posted by JB78f150
I never pull a trailer from a bumper so I wouldn't have a problem with mounting it with spacers.
I doubt that this truck will pull many trailers, and if it does it wouldn't be heavier than a loaded car trailer. Thanks for the concern though, that is definitely something to keep in mind!

Originally Posted by 77&79F250
What ever you do to make it fit just use heavy steel square tubing or something simuilar for spacers and HD hardware. Grade 8 ect....

Maybe hitting up a local welding/steel buisness could make it go faster?

And yes a frame mounted reciever hitch is always better that a bumper for towing, IMO
No need to hit up the local welders, but that isn't a bad idea. I should be able to build my own brackets out of scrap laying around the shop. If not, I could always buy a small sheet of 1/8". Thanks for your reply!
 


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