I have an EZ Wiring kit that's almost done. The directions aren't clear on the ignition switch though. Anyone have a diagram? It's a 72 F100. I think I have most everything else figured out, but I am open to advice, tips, tricks etc. thx!
Yup, had the wires hooked up backwards. Now t.he switch works, but it's not turning over. (not getting fire) so I'll have some more trouble shooting tomorrow. Wiring diagram only has one of the small solenoid posts hooked up, some need to figure out where those go.
The small "S" terminal is what makes it crank over, and should be hooked to the neutral safety(if you have one) and then the keyswitch. The other small terminal is the "I" terminal, and this should hook to the coil + or not be hooked up at all depending on what type of ignition system you have.
Sounds like this "EZ" wiring kit is not so easy. Did they have very good instructions? And how much splicing did you have to do to mate the old Ford components to this new wiring?
I ran a wire from the I post to the pos coil and it's trying harder to turn over now. It's almost cranking, but not quite. Grrrr.
The kit isn't too bad really. I thinks it's more my lack of understanding than anything. I had to splice all of the lights, switches, ect, but if you consider it was less than $200 then it's worth the headaches (I suppose). Directions are kind of vague, because it's a universal kit. They do have tech support but they're not open until tomorrow.
I have been trying to see the advantages of this kit. You do get a new fuse box and new usually labeled wire, but;
- you are now on your own with no wiring diagram unless you make notes and make your own diagram from the kit.
-the wires are not usually were the problems lie, they usually lie in the connectors and the components themselves(switches, etc.) which you have to re-use.
- and speaking of problems with connections, you now have more since you have to splice everything together.
I hope you get it going, I have never used one of these kits because I did not see any merit in it, you can buy wire at the store cheaper and splice it in yourself. If you have anything positive to say about it, please do. I am trying to find something good about these "universal" kits, like I said you do get new wiring and a fuse box, which is not much use with no diagrams to go with it.
The EZ harness is well built, labeled, and they have "ok" directions. The advantage? The price, considering a painless is about $850 without the switches.
Something has gone wrong though, because even with the ignition switch wired correctly its trying to start as soon as I hook up the battery (before turning the key). I'm guessing it's either a short in the solenoid or a short in the switch. (Or both). I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel. I just hope my local mechanic can get it sorted out without costing me a fortune. I'm headed out of town for 3 weeks so I hope to just leave it in his care until I get home. Fml.
Last edited by soco; 07-08-2012 at 05:32 PM.
Just for future reference, Franklin2,
the American Autowire 13 circuit, Power Plus "universal" kit is $269. Their instructions are very good and their customer service is excellent.
They offer many different products, but their Power Plus kits seem to fill most non-restoration rewiring project needs.
I've used kits from M&H, Painless, Ron Francis and some others. None of them are as good, overall, as the AAW products. Just my opinion, of course.
Sometime I wish I didn't know now
The things I didn't know then.
Give me something to believe in!
Update: finally figured out the cranking problem. I had the coil pos wire running to the wrong post on the ignition switch.
Since my steering wheel is kinda beat up, I ordered a universal turn switch from LMC. I installed that today. It was easy, but looks really bulky. Oh well, it will do for now.
Last thing is to hook up dash gauges. They never worked prior to this rewire job, so I'm not hopeful. But I'm going to try. Any suggestions for aftermarket gauges just in case?
Considering my limited mechanical know how, I think this job went well. The EZ harness is probably easier than I made it out to be. Like all the advice I read on here, take your time and go slow. A 3-week work trip put my project on hold, but I did have some quality time with my kids under the dash this week.
I usually use the mechanical type gauges. This would be a oil pressure gauge that actually has a small piece of tubing hooking it to a port on the engine, and it has a tube with fluid in it that screws into a coolant port for the temp gauge. You can get them now with a voltmeter gauge, and that's what I would get, I would avoid the ammeter type gauges(that have 60-0-60 on the face).
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