Hey guys I have another question I was thinking about installing a sway bar in the front of my truck my question is do this bars really stabilize the ride like they say,and from what year to what year will it be the same for my truck and will a 4x4 be the same for a 2wd the reason I ask is because I seen a couple in the junk yard and as you know I can get it cheap also how much of it do I get do I get the end links,bar,and mount for the chassis. My truck is a 70 f250 ranger xlt 2wd 390 c6 all stock,Heres a picture of my truck,
Thanks in advance......

 

FoMoCo did not offer front or rear sway bars for F100/350's until 1973. If prior years have 'em, they were installed by front end shops or RV dealers.

 

Anything you do in the anti sway area will help with your body roll.

 

Thanks guys so my question still is will the bar from a 73 or newer, or a 4x4 work on my 2wd, or only the 2wd will work.

 

2x with elgemcdlf.

A 4wd front anti-roll bar won't work. The geometry is off. For reference, you'll need the brackets that go over the radius arms (pictured below) and of course, the links, the anti-roll bar, and the frame brackets.



Here are a couple of options. The bar in the foreground is an OEM version from an 79 S'Cab. The bar in the background is an older version from AddCo which the end link brackets (pictured) clamp around each I-beam. The newer version require drilling through the I-beam.


PM me if you're interested in the AddCo.

 

Thanks HIOSILVER looks like I'm heading to the junk yard hopefully it is still there just saw it to days ago thank again .

 

You're welcome. Btw, bring some penetrant, a tape measure and camera, a couple of bottles of water, and big wrenches and sockets (1, 1-1/16th, and 1-1/8th). Soak your donor and then take a short walk around the yard while it does its thing... and removing the C-brackets from the radius arms requires undoing the big nut and bolt connectng the I-beams to the radius arms. I got mine from a van but it was still alotta work.

Lastly, ya might wanna pass on the yard's end links cuz they're usually corroded at the stem. New ones are about $14 each from NPD.

 

Tas, Also on the 73 CS the front bars were bolted between the struts. The rear bars will work but on pre 73s you have to mount the bar under the rear housing and fabricate a link to the frame. The reason is the shock absorber location is different. They are well worth installing, you will not believe the difference. Good Luck and do not forget the wasp spray! Kenny

 

Buy a set of Hellwig sway bars and be done with it. They're still being made for our trucks. And yes they really work. They're the best thing I've ever done to my truck in the 40+ years I've had it.

 

That's fine and dandy, but what fun is that???

Let's do a comparo!!

Hellwig 68-72 F100-F250 Pickup
Front 1-1/8” PN 7422,.... $241.99 from Summit
Rear 1-1/8” PN 7403,.....$254.39 from Summit
Total: $496.38

My costs:
Front 1-1/8", $35 (Pick N Pull)
RA brackets, $16 (Pick N Pull)
New endlinks, $30 (NPD)
Subtotal: $81

Rear 1", $35 (Pick N Pull)
Endlinks, $18 (Energy Suspension)
Subtotal: $53

My total: $134

Savings: +$362.38!!!!!! .... and I can put that towards other cool parts!!!

 

You could have also got an additional 1/8" D larger rear bar for that $443!

 

Sorry .. 'did some bad math.. the savings is $362.38!!

..still, I think my point is clear.

 

HIO SILVER I went and got the bar,C brackets and links they where a bear to get off but the mission was accomplished I used brake fluid to soak everything and it worked like a charm now i have a question on the C brackets there is like a nipple or guide that fits at the end of the radius arm isn't that so the bracket doesn't move, how is that supposed to fit in my truck if it doesn't have that notch the truth is i couldn't visualize how it would work in my with out the noch so I put it aside and did not buy it did I screw up buy not getting it please let me know and I can go and get it tomorrow also saw one on a van same type bracket bar was a little different I will stick to my computer waiting for your input thanks again. OH I almost forgot they asked $45.00 for it

 

I bought mine in the early 70's and paid about $100 for both. I guess I'm living in the past.

 

Ahoy there mate. Sounds like ya had a pretty good day on the hunt.

The pin indexes on the radius arms and keeps the bracket from rotating when push/pulled in the vertical.. I would not be opposed to notching the radius arms if they don't have the notch - it's only a lil bit of metal. It'd be easier on steel RAs but I think these early rigs are cast iron. Nonetheless, break out the grinder, cut-off wheel, and die grinder.

Yow, really? $45 for the C-brackets? My yard charges $6 or less for "small brackets" and $8 for large ones. I guess they have calibrated eyeballs.