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i finally got 1 6.0 running again, now its
time for the other.
problem is its been sitting for over a year.
i finally got the heads off and the passenger ex manifold
was full of water. (egr cooler is good tho..)
there is also alot of surface rust on the rockers on both
sides as well as tops of pushrods and springs.
so now i want to crank the engine by hand to inspect
cylinders, and am not sure how this engine gets its timing?
i mean, theres no spark plugs, but the injectors gotta "know"
when pistons tdc?
so if i mark the crank position i should be able to just
bring it back to that mark, but im not sure which
stroke its in..
also, can i use the starter to turn it over?
First off, this engine is an OVERHEAD VALVE engine (or "cam in block" type whatever terminology you prefer). Are you planning on pulling the camshaft out of this engine? Because if you do, HAVE FUN. To get to that point, you would need to remove the engine itself, mount it on a stand, remove all eight piston and rod aassemblies, remove all valve lifters in their lifter guides, remove both front and rear engine covers, then flip the engine upside down so that you can remove all the bedplate fasteners and then the bedplate itself to enable removing the crankshaft. FINALLY, you would remove the two cam retainer plate fasteners and then slide the cam out the rear of the block, making it literally the very last part removed from the engine!!! And the instructions above, are the exact order in which you would do this assuming the cylinder heads along with all valvetrain components have been removed, which by itself is already a lot of work as you already know.
In answer to your questions, the FICM is what controls injector timing and "knows" which injector to fire by inputs from the CKP and CMP sensors to the PCM and then networked to the FICM, failing which the FICM won't command the injectors to fire.
I fail to understand your logic in your feeling the need to mark the crank position. Unless you plan on disassembling the engine to the state described above in the first paragraph of this post, valve timing is not an issue. I would be more concerned if any of the thirty-two valves are seized sticking or stuck in their valve guides before worrying about the concerns you describe before anything else.
Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech
....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff
....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies
....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
I havent done too much working on engines,
and most of thats been on gas v-8s..all ohv
changed the neighbors plugs and wires when
i was a kid and spent the whole day trying
to get it to run so am more careful since.
sooo, the engine electronically senses where its
cam and crank are and tells the ficm to inject...
i didnt know this and it wasnt easy to search for so
thanks for that.
and no! I definitely dont wanna mess with the lower
end, just wanna clean it thoroughly and theres alot of
surface rust in the heads so there might be some in lower end...
(I'll try to post pic) http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0630121317.jpg http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...02121133-1.jpg
heads are going into the shop to get checked and cleaned up.
i want to rotate the engine to check the rest of the cylinders
because at least one of them has some rust in it...
i hope its not too bad, which i dont have the expertise to determine
so will be lurking around fte awhile..
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