Would it be recommended to convert the right side to the one piece design upper control arm or just keep it 2 piece? On rock auto both are the same price, between 25 and 40 dollars depending on brand.

Also some of the lowers say they don't fit OE control arms. There are over size ones as well. What ones do i need?

 

I've done some searching i just cant get a clear answer. Am i right that if i convert to the one piece i have to buy an alignment bolt kit?

 

I looked at putting the one piece in place of the two piece and it was much simpler to install the replacement parts for the two piece.

as far as the alignment bolt kit, I'd guess that you would need it. but the repair with the two piece unit is so simple...

 

Guess I'll stick with the 2 piece then. I want the cheapest easiest fix since i will probably sell it soon. I just want everything in solid condition when i sell it, makes for an easier sale and can get more money out of it that way.

Any ideas on the lower joint questions i had?

 

the lowers look to be replaceable. you can get them at any parts house, so i'm not sure why my haynes manual says they arent replaceable.

looks to be a pretty straight forward job, as far as ball joints go anyway.

 

I know they can be replaced, I just don't know which ones to get, i don't wanna order the wrong ones then have to pay to ship them back to order the right ones, all the while the truck sits tore apart in my driveway. Some of the lowers say they don't fit OE control arms. There are over size ones as well. What ones do i need? Just order the ones that look factory and hope they are right? In my reading it seems some people had issues with the joints not fitting tight when they replaced them, but i don't know if that is common or just an issue a couple people had.

 

One more question. The water pump decided to start pissing everywhere the other day. Is the fan and clutch threaded on there? If so, how in the hell do i get it off? I'm about to just take a piece of metal and a BFH and break the water pump to pieces so i can work on the clutch outside the engine compartment.

 

fan clutch is connected by 4 bolts which thread into the waterpump flange. pretty straight forward R&R. usually there is enough room to get a box end wrench in there and break the bolts loose. not the most fun job in the world, but not the worst either.

usually i remove the fan/clutch assembly and fan shroud at the same time, makes life MUCH easier. then you can get to teh water pump, which is usually burried beneath the AC bracket and PS pump bracket. you will need a PS pump pulley puller as well. it is a press on pulley, which comes off easy once you have the right tool. bout 15 bucks if i remember. then it just presses back on with a different piece of that tool. can throw you for a loop if youve never worked on one and dont see it coming.

as for teh ball joints, honestly, i would just go to a chain parts store and get them. if they arent right you can return them easy enough that way. many times they can match internet pricing (advance will on occasion).

that's the best way, unless you are tons of miles from the parts store. that's what I do.

on a side note, your thread inspired me
i changed my oil, transfer case oil, and front diff oil tonight

i used full synthetic in the transfer case, same as last time. it does get dark, so if anyone else is reading and thinks they can ignore the transfer case fluid changes ... i wouldn't. the fluid does wear, so i'd keep them maintained.

got cheap and just used conventional oil in the front diff. factory fluid was in there for 150K with no real problems .... so it shoud last the duration of my ownership, few more years anyway.

ball joints look good on mine, knock on wood. tie rod ends look like they could be a little dry, but there is no grease fittings so what do you do?

good luck, keep us posted.

 

I got the 4 bolts off but only the pulley came off, the shaft for the fan is still attached. I've tried prying and beating and it didn't budge. I know on my super duty its threaded on so thats why i wondered. It doesn't appear i'll need to remove any other accessories. Like i said i'm highly considering just beating the pump itself into pieces so the shaft comes out. Rather not resort to that though. Id hate to damage the front cover doing that.

As for the joints i think i'll get them from rock auto, except the lowers. Its only a few bucks more at vato zone for the lowers so the reduced hassle in the event they are wrong will be worth the extra couple bucks. Uppers from auto zone are 60ish, at RA they are 30ish, those i'll definitely go cheap on.

 

not sure about the pump i guess. mine's the 5.0, and i've never worked on a 4.0, so if they are different i wouldn't know.

any pump i've ever workd on the shaft for the fan sandwiches the pulley between the water pump neck and the fan shaft.

i'll look in my manual too, see if that gives us a clue.

good choice on the ball joints.

 

i looked in my haynes manual about the water pump on the 4.0

it said that you may need to remove the radiator to get enough room to get the water pump out.

if i understand what you are talking about correctly, you are trying to get the shaft out of the front of the water pump? that part does not come out, so once you get the fan and pully off, that's it. the rest comes out as a unit when you get the case bolts out.

so if there is not enough room to snake it out of there, you will have to remove the radiator to gain room.

at least that's what i'm getting out of it.

 

Mine is a 5.0. Its a 97 if that makes a difference. I guess i can try more prying and beating to try to get the fan off.

I'm trying to get the shaft for the fan and clutch off. Just like from the pulley out. Thats what i cant get off. I might be able to take the pump, fan, clutch, and shroud out all at one time, but im not sure if i can. I have small hands but i dont think they are small enough to get to the bottom bolts on the pump with the fan still in there.

 

so the 4 bolts that hold the fan to the pulley are off, but the fan wont come off the end of the water pump?

if so, i would assume it is just rusted on there. typically there is a dowel in the middle of the water pump shaft which locates the fan clutch assembly, to make sure it is centered.

i bet a little penetrating oil, a generous application of heat from a propane torch, and some gentle pursuation would get it to break loose.

ive always had the best luck tapping them from the top and bottom and side to side to kind of wiggle them off. i've never had one fight too bad, but i can see how it could want to seize on there.

i bet a little heat would go a long way .....
not enough room for a slide hammer or anything like that, so i'm not sure what's left. like you said, beating it into submission could crack the timing cover. it is only aluminum and is a LOT of work to replace.

good luck!

 

When I changed mine I had to use a wrench and a steady bar, fan clutch unscrews, reverse thread.... Philip

 

So which is it? Is it threaded on or not? 2 people tellin me 2 different things. Threaded would make more sense right now since it can't get it to slide off.