Thanks guys. I do have a test light, so I may try that version to get the codes. Will do timing today after work I hope. I would love to find a small guage like that, still have to return the autozone pos.
I believe the ignition module is stock, but I will check.

 

Ok, after two autozones both had faulty fuel pressure test kits, I just bought one. results:
idle - 28psi
under load - 26psi
after turning engine off - 31psi.

So I know these are low, the pressure did not slowing go down over time, but stayed steady. So, fuel regulator problem, or fuel pump?
I still need to check the timing but for the life of me I can not locate the spout plug. I've see pictures of it, but where under the hood is it located? I looked at the wires going to the distributor and it is not there.

 

The SPOUT is located next to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) near the driver side hood hinge. Here is a drawing:


Does the truck have two tanks? Is the pressure low on both? If so it could be a fuel filter or a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator. If it only happens on one, you have a bad pump in that tank.

 

Yes I went back out there after posting and found it. But, I can't see anything with the timing light. It flashes, and I marked the dampner, but it is not bright enough, should I do it when it is dark out?

 

one tank does not work, the fuel gauge goes beyond fuel. I was told it is a bad ground, so I only use one tank. I just replaced the fuel filter days ago hoping it was that. Is there a way to test the regulator or do you just swap it?

 

You can pull the vacuum line leading to the regulator to see if the pressure increases, but that may be inconclusive. A new Fuel Pressure Regulator is not that expensive.

One other thought...that other tank could have a bad shuttle valve in it. This will allow fuel from the working tank to fill the non-working tank. This is a well known problem on these trucks, it's referred to as "cross-flow". There was a recall for it that affected some model years. Yours may or may not have been part of the recall.

Some have stated they could temporarily clamp off the fuel return hose on the fuel rail. This would prevent the unused fuel from returning to either tank, but it would also eliminate the huge "drain" in your system if indeed your non-working tank has a bad valve in it. Something else to look at if replacing the FPR does not resolve the problem.

Too bad the other tank does not work. It's a great diagnostic tool. And yes, an open circuit will cause the fuel gauge to register beyond full.

 

Ok, I plan to first replace the FPR. As for the second tank, I have tapped it with a wrench a few times and it sounds empty, so I don't think and I hope it is not the problem.

 

I replaced the FPR and my pressure is still at 28. So, is it the fuel pump? Need a little more help, still looking for an answer on the timing light.

Thanks

 

Look at Post #21. There is more info to troubleshoot your fuel pressure issue. If you can't see the timing marks with the light then yes, wait until it is darker out.

 

Are you talking about clamping off the fuel line? I'm pretty sure that is not the problem as the other tank appears to be empty. If this was the issue wouldnt the other tank be filling up with gas?

 

Still looking for some input.
I clamped off two lines to the front tank (non-working tank) which I believe one would be the return line. Checked the fuel pressure and it was still the same (28 at idle, 26 under load, and 32 when shut off).
Again I tapped the front tank but it sounded like there might be fuel, so I ran a small hose down into the tank, and it came out with the bottom 2-3 inches wet. So there is fuel in it, and maybe the fuel is running back into it. So, what is the easiest way to address this as a temporary fix?
I will try and get codes today, and tonight I'll check timing.
So, do I have to drop the front tank?

 

I ran the codes following the instructions here:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
The strange thing is, at this link it described what the blinks will be if no codes where found since the battery was last disconnected.
Mine appeared to show this, then after a 6 second break it displayed the following codes:
33 – EGR Valve opening not detected
25 – knock not sensed during dynamic test
42 – HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (right side).
55 – Keyed power input to processor is open.
63 – TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts.
32 – EVP Circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts
54 – ACT sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.
25 – knock not sensed during dynamic test
56 – TOT sensor output is greater than Self-Test maximum value of 4.8 volts.

So I have these to go along with the low fule pressure, any connections?

I'll try to get to the timing this evening as it gets a little darker out.

 

Well we threw in the towel and took it to the shop. Wife was tired if me having to mess with it every day, and I was tired of messing with it. After a week with no success, it was time.
Thanks to each of you who tried to help. Once it is fixed, I'll post what it was so others can see.