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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 07-02-2012, 03:05 PM
two4two two4two is offline
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'87 F-250 4X4 Bigfoot Cruiser 460 V8 exhaust one-piece?

I don't think this muffler has ever been replaced. It looks like a one-piece exhaust from engine through the muffler. The muffler has two pipes in and they are not bolted on; they are part of the muffler. There might be a joint further front, I can't tell. Maybe a separate tail-pipe, but it doesn't look like it. But the muffler has a leak now and I'd like to replace just the muffler and not the whole darn system. Anybody know anything about this?
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:07 PM
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El Camino Man El Camino Man is offline
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Most vehicles have the one piece muffler like you speak. Youve just gotta cut the old one off and clamp/weld the new one in!
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-1996 F-250 PSD, XLT, ECLB, 4wd, E4OD, 4.10s, 6637, 3" DP, 4" Exhaust, Tuned, 400,000 mi and counting
-1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 3.3L, Auto, 144,000 mi, The Grandpa Mobile
-2003 Salem by Forest River 25RLSS, 5er 25', Super Slide, Reese Sidewinder, 6505lbs
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:19 PM
two4two two4two is offline
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Two pipes

The two pipes come down from the manifold and run parallel to a joint just where the bed begins. They couple each couple to new pipes that are actually part of the muffler. This joint (s) is not just U-Clamps; it is two plates with a gasket between them. So the muffler is not just a muffler, it is a muffler with two input pipes, each about 20" long. The tail pipe is also part of the muffler. I wouldn't know where to find anything like this. No auto parts store lists it like this. I'd like to cut the muffler out and put a new one in with the U-clamps. This muffler has 2 input holes -- one for each pipe. Wonder if this can be done.
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Old 07-02-2012, 04:00 PM
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Take some pics lol. From what Im gettin, you say its got 2 inputs and a single exit? Thats kinda backwards lol. Its usually a single in and dual out lol
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-1996 F-250 PSD, XLT, ECLB, 4wd, E4OD, 4.10s, 6637, 3" DP, 4" Exhaust, Tuned, 400,000 mi and counting
-1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 3.3L, Auto, 144,000 mi, The Grandpa Mobile
-2003 Salem by Forest River 25RLSS, 5er 25', Super Slide, Reese Sidewinder, 6505lbs
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Old 07-02-2012, 10:55 PM
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did you just buy one of these. i just posted a couple days ago one of the bigfoot cruisers in a thread that was forsale on cl that i found about an hour away from me with tthe same options. f250 with 460.
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:52 AM
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The 87 460 has separate head pipes that are welded to a common flange.
The muffler has two flanged inlets.
These seal with gaskets (Walker 31512 or eqv.)
If the studs in that flange are bad, just drill them out and put bolts all the way through.
Yes, you'll need to get a separate tail pipe and an oval hanger for the rear of the muffler.
Be sure the head pipe hanger inside the frame rail (just ahead of the flange) is in good shape or the weight of the system will make the flanges leak in short order.

Additional Walker numbers are;
muffler P/N 45155
hanger P/N 35766
tailpipe P/N 45993
insulator P/N 35460

I did a lot of research trying to find a universal replacement muffler that had dual 2 1/2" inlets that close together.
Nothing is out there.

Ended up welding flanges to the front of a school bus muffler and going with a universal 3" Magnaflow stainless tail pipe.
But this means fabricating your own hangers and bending some tubes.
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'87 F-250
460, 4V 0-80457s, Edelbrock Intake, Saginaw PS Pump, BW 1356 4x4, 4.10 10.25", 130A 3G Alt., PMGR starter, ZF-5, - Lil' Red
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg117/donjamer/FTE%20Pics/blumax500-1-1.jpgFTE Fraternity of Blue Max
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Old 07-03-2012, 12:32 PM
two4two two4two is offline
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460 head pipe flange

Hardwrkntruk, you say head pipes are welded to a common flange. You mean the pipes coming from the manifold? I see that. But the 2 inlet pipes on the stock muffler are also welded to a common flange. It looks like the inlet pipes on the Walker replacement each have their own flange. Do these match up with the holes in the head pipes' flange?

Regarding the tailpipe, the stock is welded to the muffler. Are you saying I must get the Walker replacement tailpipe? Does it bolt fast to the Walker muffler with U-clamps?

If your answers come back good it means my only REALLY REALLY hard problem is getting the stock flanges separated. Looks like they're tighter together than the OL's knees.


Oh, one more question: regarding the rear brakes, I had to replace a brake line and need to bleed them. Any way to loosen the bleeder without simply having it break off? Or possible bleed the line without using the bleeder?
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Old 07-03-2012, 01:03 PM
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1) Yes, they do.
2) You can use any tail pipe that fits.
Maybe you can even cut off the existing and expand it
...if you have the tool and it's not too shot.
But, yes it calls for a U-clamp at the joint.
I just listed the part number that I know fits.
3) You can try cracking the line where it enters the wheel cylinder, or just replace them.
They're only about $8 each.
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'87 F-250
460, 4V 0-80457s, Edelbrock Intake, Saginaw PS Pump, BW 1356 4x4, 4.10 10.25", 130A 3G Alt., PMGR starter, ZF-5, - Lil' Red
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg117/donjamer/FTE%20Pics/blumax500-1-1.jpgFTE Fraternity of Blue Max
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:39 PM
two4two two4two is offline
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Regarding the brake line

The bleeder on the left is 3/8", on the right is 10MM, there's a junction box right behind the driver's wheel well where there is also a bleeder -- 5/16". Wow, 3 different sized. I got deep 6-pt sockets and they all loosened up easily. So the brake job is done. Thanks for reading this post.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:53 AM
two4two two4two is offline
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One more little item to ask about

Regarding the brake job, yes, the brakes are bled, but I notice the master cylinder reservoir has a crack in it and leaks a little. If they're sharp at the inspection station they'll not like that, so I'm going to replace it. Please, anyone correct me if I'm wrong with how I think I'm going to do it: 1.) disconnect the two brake lines from the cylinder (catching the fliud that will run out of the reservoir holes); 2.) remove the nuts that hold the cylinder fast to the booster; 3.) remove the old master cylinder/reservoir and replace with the new one; 4.) replace the nuts that hold it fast to the booster; 5.) install the two brake lines to the master cylinder (they should not have leaked any fluid because they are not facing downward); 6.) fill the new reservoir with new brake fluid. Questions: should I hold down the brake pedal while installing the master cylinder, attaching the lines and filling the reservoir? Since I don't think any fluid will leak from the lines, and no air will get into the system, will I need to bleed again? Or is air SURE to get into the system? Anyone have any advice?
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:56 AM
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Even though your lines arnt facing down, they will still leak some and you will get air in the lines. The only way to prevent this would be to bend them vertical before removal, of which I do not recommend lol. Even a little air in the lines will make them squishy, so Id just rebleed them anyways
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-1996 F-250 PSD, XLT, ECLB, 4wd, E4OD, 4.10s, 6637, 3" DP, 4" Exhaust, Tuned, 400,000 mi and counting
-1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, 3.3L, Auto, 144,000 mi, The Grandpa Mobile
-2003 Salem by Forest River 25RLSS, 5er 25', Super Slide, Reese Sidewinder, 6505lbs
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:06 AM
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You should definitely bench bleed the master cylinder before installation.
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Jim (AKA Princess Glitzhooter)
'87 F-250
460, 4V 0-80457s, Edelbrock Intake, Saginaw PS Pump, BW 1356 4x4, 4.10 10.25", 130A 3G Alt., PMGR starter, ZF-5, - Lil' Red
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg117/donjamer/FTE%20Pics/blumax500-1-1.jpgFTE Fraternity of Blue Max
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two4two View Post
The two pipes come down from the manifold and run parallel to a joint just where the bed begins. They couple each couple to new pipes that are actually part of the muffler. This joint (s) is not just U-Clamps; it is two plates with a gasket between them. So the muffler is not just a muffler, it is a muffler with two input pipes, each about 20" long. The tail pipe is also part of the muffler. I wouldn't know where to find anything like this. No auto parts store lists it like this. I'd like to cut the muffler out and put a new one in with the U-clamps. This muffler has 2 input holes -- one for each pipe. Wonder if this can be done.
The muffler you are looking for, and the pipes for that matter, are listed in the Maremont eCatalog. Their catalog shows your F250 uses a converter, if you select 1987 F350 w/7.5L engine you will see some drawings and part numbers for your entire exhaust.

Maremount eCatalog URL: http://maremont.com/

Here is a photo of the goofy muffler (Maremont 251001) that I stole from an old E-Bay listing
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:40 AM
two4two two4two is offline
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Thanks guys.

Good advice from all. I appreciate it. It's an old truck that requires maintenance, but it sure is a work horse with the 4Wd low range and the 460 V8. It is the 8900 GVW Bigfoot Cruiser and can easily haul a ton and then some even though it is called the F250.
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:11 AM
RockWVU RockWVU is offline
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how well does this "stock" muffler flow? My stock exhaust is identical to the pictured, but heavily rusted out muffler. Tryin to decide between the walker replacement muffler and going custom at the muffler shop.

1986 f350 460 c6 4x4 crewcab
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:11 AM
 
 
 
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