I have a question for ya.

My ac blows warm while idling.
My compressor seems to engage and disengage as normale.
I removed the only shime i had behind the clutch plate.
It seems like it works a little better, but still blows hot after idling for a min or two.
I checked the freon level and it at 55psi on low side while running and it roughly 100 degrees outside.
Checked electrical connections on compressor and nothing seems loose.
The air blows about 85 degrees which isnt even cold, then the compressor will all of a sudden disengage
and start blowing heat.
the temp will get to 97 or so then ac will kick back in and cool down to roughly 88 then start blowing heat again.
It steadly does this every min or 2.
It is a 2002 7.3 f250
Please help i dont have the funds to spend at the dealer.
Thanks Greg

 

SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

Not sure removing the "shim" is a good idea.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html

 

Well i think the air gap was big.
I removed the shim and it still kicks in and out like it's supposed to.
I noticed the thread about installing the pneumatic valve to keep the hot coolent from coming in cab during summer months.
I think im going to do this, but it still doesnt solve the problem of it kicking the compressor on and off and why it blows heat.

 

No it doesnt, but any conciliation, if my control valve is set any place other then "OFF", my a/c cycles too.

 

Yeah I thought that it should cycle on and off. It's just weird that it blows heat. Maybe a thermostat stuck? Radiator clog? Some kind of inter cooler problem? I really have no idea. Hope someone knows

 

Orifice tube ? Just hope someone can tell by the symptoms.

 

I am also having electrical issues. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...6&goto=newpost

Maybe it's all connected somehow

 

. Ok so I did the pneumatic valve that shuts off heat on max ac. This really helped but whenever I put it on normal ac it blows heat still. So I really only bypassed the problem instedbof fixing it. Anymore ideas?

 

I'm going to say your refrigerant is low and needs a charge ,at 100* ambient temp the compressor shouldn't be cycling like that ,it also shouldn't be blowing hot air as soon as the compressor kicks off. At 105* ambient mine will blow 39* out the center vent on MAX with the heater control mod .

 

are the lines cold to the touch? is the dryer sweating?

 

Ok the big lines coming from compressor and into the dryer and back out are a little warm. The small line that the orifice tube is in is cold on one side and Hot on the other side. There is a connection in the small line and right side is hot the left is cool

 

Ok just checked lines on my other vehicle and the little line is supposed to be like that. But....the big lines are not near as cold as they should be.

 

Dump a little can of refrigerant in it..some of my trucks have done this before, a little shot always fixed them up. Probably not the "fix" but it's worked for years on alot of trucks!

 

55 psi is to high for the low side. Too much freon causes high low side pressure. slipping clutch, worn compressor, clogged orifice tube. bad condensor will all cause high low side pressures. What is the high side pressure and is any of the gauges bouncing while running.