220 sandpaper. By hand or a da or vibrating sander. The clutch surface needs to be rust free and the mounting surface to crank as well. Then use carb or brake clean to wash the powder rust off after sanding.

 

Okay, I'm about ready to put it back in. However, after I primed the oil pump a couple of weeks ago and topped off the oil, I've noticed a couple of things. First, I overfilled the oil by a quart (stupid me for not letting it reach the pan before checking the stick). Second, when I wipe a shop towel along the seam between the oil pan and the main seal and the oil pan and the dip below the timing chain cover, I am picking up a little oil. I'm thinking that my pan isn't sealed up and that I need to reseal it.

I just used the rubber gasket in my rebuild kit on the pan and I'm wondering if I need to pull it and use something else or maybe just add silicon gasket like Permatex Form a Gasket? I didn't see any specific pattern specified in my manuals for tightening the pan bolts. Is there a pattern I should have followed?

Lastly, the engine is still on the stand so I am thinking that all I need to do is drain the oil and flip up upside down to work on the pan. Would I need to prime the pump again after doing this or just fill it up again.

 

One quart over full on a 460 isn't a big deal.
Yes, just drain oil and flip over. No need to reprime after because the lifters and all oil galleys won't drain overnight or even in a week. You'll be fine.
I always add a little skim of sealant on the oil pan gasket no matter if it's rubber or cork. Just don't go overboard. The corners of where the roundness meets the flat of the block are always tricky. Make sure you seal those areas well.
Torque pattern is always asked. I go from center out after I snug all the bolts down. Then I double or triple check the torque because all the bolts help pull pan in place and the previous one will be loose or not as tight.

 

I've ready to unbolt it from the engine stand. Here is the final photo from the engine stand.





And I have a question about which hole on the boom I should use. Since I have to lift it high, I was thinking about using the 1/2 ton hole. But I think the engine is probably right at that weight. What do you guys think?

 

I would think you'd be fine. Might need some weight on the back of the lift. I ready they weigh around 720 Lbs.

 

Yup. I'd put some weight on the back of the lift. I've caught a wheel on a speck of dirt and almost dumped my 5000$ engine on the floor from 3' up.
When you're lifting from fully extended the front wheels are right at center of gravity. Easy to push it over when pushing from the top or pulling the engine.
Let the air out if your front tires before you go to put it in. You'd be surprised how much it will lower the truck.

 

Thanks for the feedback. It lifted it 51" above the ground with no issues. I'll see what I can add for the weight.

I have a question about TDC at the start. I had it at TDC when I set the distributor to ensure it was aligned with cylinder 1. When I put the flywheel on it rotated a bit, like an 1/8 of a turn back. I can reset it easy enough but thought I'd confirm my suspicion that it actually doesn't matter once the distributor is aligned correctly, that I can leave it and it will fire correctly (assuming everything else is hooked up correctly) when I try to start it.
Am I correct in my suspicion?

 

Yeah, once the distributor is in, you can turn the engine as much as you want.
Just remember, when you go to start it, you'll still need to adjust the timing to get it to run right. So first thing you do when it starts, while breaking in the cam, get the timing set to 10-12* at 2000 rpm with spout out, then pop it back in and break in the cam. You don't want it too far out of time when you're sitting at 2-2500 rpm for 15 min. You can shut it off any time during break in to let cool off if needed. Double and triple check everything.

Have fun

 

As far as my skills go, I think I can get the engine attached and get everything bolted back in place okay and get all the electrical and vacuum tubes hooked up fine. But when you start talking about everything to do right when you hit the starter, well that's where I think I need a pretty detailed checklist. Any and all advice is welcome. For now, does the asterisk before tdc or after?

 

Asterisk is for degrees
And it's BTDC.

 

So I've done a little internet research and come up my prestart checklist and initial start instructions. Along the way I found some conflicting views on how fast the run the engine during the initial start and it seems to be different based upon how "modern" the engine is. So I'm curious what others recommend on this and if I am missing any key steps here. Here is my prestart check list.

Precheck list:
1. Check the oil level and fill if needed
2. Mark sure all vacuum lines installed and accounted for
3. Is fuel pump pressurized? Do I need to do anything to prime the EFI?
4. Marke sure all the electrical lines are connected
5. Mark the timing lines on the harmonic balancer so that they are clearly visible?
6. Install timing light and keep the wires clear of the fan
7. Fill the radiator. Use tap water for this first break-in period so it can be easily drained if there is a problem
8. Connect the battery
9. Ensure that the the belts are at the right tension
10. Transmission in Neutral
11. Parking brake on


When it starts:
1. Once the engine fires, immediately bring the rpm up to between 2,000 and 3,000. All camshafts in V-8 engines are splash-lubricated from oil whipped up by the crankshaft. Spinning the engine at these higher speeds for the first 20 minutes ensures sufficient oil reaches the cam lobes.
2. Make sure engine rpm never remains constant for the break-in period. Engine speed should vary between 2,000 and 3,000 the entire time.
3. Get the timing set to 10-12* BTDC at 2000 with the spout out. Then put the spout back in and break in the cam. Don’t let the cam run for too long out of time at 2000-2500 RPM for 15 minutes. Shut it off to let the cam cool off if you are struggling to get it set.
4. Check for leaks everywhere
5. Check the oil pressure
6. Check the temp
7. Check the oil level
8. Check the radiator level

This is where the differences start. Keep in mind that I copied these for various sources so they contradict each other. Since mine is a 1988 year model, I'm thinking it is okay to go in the 2000-3000 range. What do you think?

Break in:
• During the first few minutes of engine operation, it’s important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower rpms to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won’t burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by—which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life.
• Redlining a fresh motor is generally a bad idea, but there’s no reason you shouldn’t drive normally.
• Start high power - Start with Revolutions per minute (rpm) between 2500 and 4000, and run the engine for about 20 minutes while watching so that the oil pressure does not get too high, which is dangerous. After changing oil and checking that the engine functions, drive using lower power settings. A high power setting is relative to the vehicle type, so half as many rpm may be necessary if a car has a smaller cylinder wall.
• Start low power - Setting will be around 1500 rpm, run for about half an hour while like the other method checking oil pressure and begin again should there be any over-boiling of the engine's coolant, which is a combination of air, oil, and water. Once this initial step is completed, drive in varying speeds on the road (or stand) by accelerating between speeds of 30 and 50 miles per hour.
• Initial Oil Change - First, put about 50 miles on the engine and then drain the oil and swap filters. This will get rid of the majority of the metal that ended up in the oil during break-in.

 

That second part is weird. I have never done that type of break-in and I don't know anybody who has. 3000 seems a little high, but every engine builder recommends what has worked for them in the past. Typically Injun brachium is used to put age-specific wear pattern on the ends of the flat tappet lifters, and to properly see the rings in. It has nothing to do with crosshatch on the cylinder walls or anything like that. Piston rings are and you are trying to wear them at a specific rate so that the seal better. That's what the crosshatch is used for along with retaining oil for piston lubrication.
Your list of 1-8 looks pretty good.

 

Thanks. That helps. I'll just go with keeping it between 2000 and 2500 like you said and vary it.

 

Nice thread. When you pulled your engine, we're you able to slide it off the input shaft on tranny or did you have to move it back? About to pull my engine for major rebuild and don't want to pull / slide back the tranny if don't have to. Thanks.

 

I was able to slide it off without doing anything to the tranny.