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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #61  
Old 05-06-2014, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by UNTAMND View Post
Ummm.... Same way you're supposed to.... Bring cyl 1 to tdc with both valves shut (power stroke) and put distributor in with rotor pointing to number 1 plug wire of dist cap.
No one cares what mark you made on intake or whatever, new timing parts mean that the only thing of value are timing marks on balancer (if outer ring hasn't rotated) and pointer of timing cover. Even if you don't have those you can still do it.
Thanks for the response. Okay, well I'm missing the timing pointer but I know I'm at TDC (cyl 1 at TDC with both valves shut). I recall a diagram in one of the books saying that nbr one should be at what looks like 1/2 o'clock if you are standing in front of the motor. Does that matter or is it just having the rotor pointing to nbr 1?

I ordered a timing mark for an older 460 in the hopes that it works. Otherwise I may be back asking about setting the timing without the pointer.
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  #62  
Old 05-06-2014, 10:27 PM
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Usually the distributor cap has a number cast into it, if not, it really doesn't matter where it is. I've stabbed a dist in an engine any way I could and then put number 1 where the rotor was (stupid chevy with flat drive) As long as the engine is at tdc, I've used a coat hangar as a pointer before. No big deal.
If your cap doesn't have a number on it, look around for a pic of one, in relation to the alignment notch in it.
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  #63  
Old 05-09-2014, 11:52 PM
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Well I had a fun night. I was trying to ensure that I had the right socket to attach to the oil pump lead (the bar that leads from the pump to the distributor) and as I pulled it out the socket slipped off and dropped into the engine. Had to pull the oil pan. Bummer.
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  #64  
Old 05-10-2014, 12:09 AM
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=371056629136
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  #65  
Old 05-10-2014, 07:29 AM
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lesson learned I guess lol. If you do not have the primer shaft ,tape the socket on the extension.
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  #66  
Old 05-10-2014, 09:10 AM
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Well, all's well that end's well. I got it out but I think I'll get that tool before I spin the pump for real. Thanks.
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  #67  
Old 05-10-2014, 10:25 AM
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I should have elaborated when I posted that eBay link...
I've dropped too many sockets in the pan. I ground down and welded a 1/4" socket to an extension for my 302 and FE engines. I tape the 5/16 socket fir 341 and 460s. I'm starting to get back into engine building, and come across those extremely affordable pump primers. The seller had a set of two for like 15$ shipped and I lost track of time and missed the auction. Oh well.
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  #68  
Old 05-10-2014, 12:09 PM
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Well my local Napa is letting me rent the set for $4 so I'm good to go.
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  #69  
Old 05-10-2014, 01:47 PM
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Well the pump is primed, the distributor is on and it is at TDC. When I was priming, oil squirted out of a hole in the back of the block (see the photo where I zoomed in below). I tried at first to plug it with some shop towels but it didn't start flowing to the rockers until I put the sending unit (not exactly sure that that is) in the hole. Hope it didn't mess anything up to be running the oil pump with that open.


Click the image to open in full size.

Here are some updated photos

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #70  
Old 05-10-2014, 02:00 PM
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Its fine. The sending unit must sit in a major oil passage to the top end I would guess. At least you found it now instead of in the engine bay.

When I primed mine the machine shop had forgot about an oil galley plug by where the filter screws on and it dumped a ton of oil on the floor but I was glad to find it then instead of in the truck and have to tear the all the accessories off to get to it
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  #71  
Old 05-10-2014, 03:59 PM
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So does anyone one what part this is?

I think it is a engine coolant temp sender but the one I bought from NAPA has a double lead and this one is a single.

Click the image to open in full size.


Also, I think the black one, which is the air temp sender is the one that goes here instead of the coolant temp but would like to confirm.

Click the image to open in full size.


Thanks for the help!
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  #72  
Old 05-10-2014, 05:42 PM
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The part I was asking about is 10884.

I was correct about the black air temp sensor being the right one.
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  #73  
Old 05-10-2014, 09:27 PM
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The single prong one is water temp for the gauge, the dual prong gold one is for the ecu.
The black open plastic one is ecu intake air temp for ecu. The solid ones are usually for coolant, but I've pulled solid ones out of the intake air as well. The plastic ones are also commonly used in the airbox for air intake temp.

That place where the oil come out of, is the correct location for the oil sending unit. If you want a mechanical gauge also, I'd put a t in there ahead of time. The oil passage it's in is the main feed for the cam and lifters.
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  #74  
Old 05-19-2014, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNTAMND View Post
The single prong one is water temp for the gauge, the dual prong gold one is for the ecu.
The black open plastic one is ecu intake air temp for ecu. The solid ones are usually for coolant, but I've pulled solid ones out of the intake air as well. The plastic ones are also commonly used in the airbox for air intake temp.

That place where the oil come out of, is the correct location for the oil sending unit. If you want a mechanical gauge also, I'd put a t in there ahead of time. The oil passage it's in is the main feed for the cam and lifters.
Thanks!

Now onto the next question. I brought the new flywheel and clutch home when I brought the block home from the machine shop. So now the new flywheel has a thin layer of surface rust on it. Is there something that I need to do about that before attaching it?
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  #75  
Old 05-19-2014, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whalebus2112 View Post
I just finished the exact same build last week and cranked it on Wed. I assume you used assembly lube on all the bearings so prime the pump and turn the crank some and prime again. turn the crank fully over 2 times so you are back at tdc then you will be fine. The pump will stay primed.

Also I noticed that you tore the top end down to remove it. Install every thing on the motor even the accessories and brackets and all the top end stuff except for the Throttle bodies and mount.
You can just unplug the wiring harness and wire the intake stuff up on the stand and replace the crappy vacuum lines and throw the airpump stuff in the trash. It really cleans up the engine bay
Thanks for this tip. I just finished wiring everything that I could on the stand and it is definitely easier than doing it while leaning into the engine compartment.
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Old 05-19-2014, 10:15 PM
 
 
 
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