Id think if you disconnected the linkage then youd have to readjust your pedal and such? But that may be threaded so it might not affect it. Iv never removed a manual tranny so im no help lol

 

I'm don't think you have the M5OD transmission. You should have the ZF5 transmission behind your 460. A basic way to tell is whether the slave cylinder is on the side or inside the transmission. It should be outside on the drivers side. That is the ZF5. If your manual is talking about linkages it is talking about the old style clutch. With yours being hydrologic (sp?) you should only have to remove the slave from the transmission.

Good luck on your rebuild.

 

I've got the hoist so I'm ready to hook it up to the engine. I've removed the upper half, all that is left are the heads and the block.

Can I use the bolts and holes on the front of the heads where the accessories go to connect the leveler? I'm assuming that I use the flywheel holes in the back of the block, are the flywheel bolts that came out strong enough to lift this?

 

By leveler do you mean cherry-picker/engine hoist? If your wondering how to lift it, put a chain around the steel loop in the lower left hand corner of your picture. That's the lifting point for picking the engine out. As far as putting the engine on a stand, I didn't remove the flywheel before putting it on, so I'm not sure about reusing those bolts, but I used just a generic set of grade 5 bolts out of my dad's bolt bin to put in on the stand using the transmission bolt holes; it's been sitting now for about 2 months and it's been moved multiple times, and everything is fine so far.

 

I thought I needed to connect to the back as well and I'm missing the steel loop on the back. Yes, I meant the leveler on the end of the hoist. Going straight to the steel loop is easier. Thanks.

 

Well, I guess this answers the age old question, "do I have to pull the front clip to remove the 460?"





No, but you can't just pull using the steel loop, you have to have a leveler attached front and back to get this out using the type of hoist that I had. The steel loop would work with a ceiling hoist.

 

I pulled the heads this morning. Here's a look at the pistons and the valves. My plugs were clean except for nbr 1 which had oil deposits. Calling all piston and valve readers (like Tarot card readers?) to tell me what they see.

Oh and if anyone has a tip from removing that stinking dip stick bolt, I'm all ears (or eyes in this case). I'm ready to cut the sleeve and slap a socket on there. I've tried vise grips but I'm starting to strip it.

 

Oil pan is off.

 

There are a few really good topics about the 460 head rebuild and porting. Either search or hope one of the guys finds it for you.
The 460 is great. Once you get it rebuilt you'll be happy.
The pistons and heads look fine for a decent running engine.
Number each valve and take heads apart and keep all parts with each valve (easier to say it that way) and see how sloppy the valve is in each guide.

Do you have air compressor and diegrinder. You can help the heads a lot with just a little bit of time.

 

Thanks for the advice. I've read some of those threads on heads and porting. This is my first solo so I'm either going to have my local machine shop do it or buy a set from reincarnation (the mad porter). Thanks for the visual once over also.

My water passages are all rusted and some are clogged. My radiator is rusted on the inside too. Any advice on this?

I was surprised that my head gasket was metallic in that my magnet stuck to it. Is that normal?

 

If your radiator is a copper/brass one then you could have it cleaned. But really what I'd do is find a giant alum one on eBay. Or buy the hd cooling replacement radiator from the parts store. Cleaning the radiator will be like 100+. A new one is under 200 probably.

The machine shop can clean your heads of you like. Or just ram a coat hanger through the ports and flush with some water. More extreme is go to home depot and buy the drain cleaner thats double bagged and sealed up really well. It's sulfuric acid and burns away a lot of debris. Then you gotta flush a lot.

That's the stock gasket. They work well. It's a metal reinforced fiber gasket. Typical to what all the gasket kits come with. If you're expecting high hp numbers I'd opt for a nice felpro gasket. And you can find them thinner then .040 to slightly bump compression.

 

Thanks UNTAMND, I'll have the machine shop clean the rust out. I'll buy a new radiator, hoses, etc.

I got the pistons and the crankshaft out. There is wear on the bearings. I checked the end play of the connecting rods before pulling them:

cyl 1 & 5 - .018
cyl 2 & 6 - .020
cyl 3 & 7 - .016
cyl 4 & 8 - .025

I also used a dial gauge to check the endplay on the crankshaft. It was .006.

Here's the pistons:



Here's the bearings for nbr 1:

 

Bearings for the rest.

 

So, I'm wondering if anyone can read those bearings and point out any flaws on the existing crank.


Here's the crankcase and main bearings:









Thanks!

 

Those bearings look okay but hard to see for sure from pics.As long as there aren't any grooves on the rod or main journals you might get away with a polish instead of a cut.Polishing the journals doesn't remove any material it just cleans up the surface for new bearings.That is as long as nothing is out of round.Overall it looks like a healthy engine that wasn't abused.