I just started my search for info and looking at new trucks.

Did a lot of checking online, but wanted to see them.

After opening the hood I took a peak under the rubber insulators on the battery cables.

There are several but I didn't have my camera to take a pix. There is a cable going to the starter and 2 smaller gauge cables going to the Power distribution box.

Look at the crimps. The lugs are wide open on the end exposing that nice shiny copper cable. They used barrel style crimps, instead of closed end style crimps.

This is the "Perfect" spot to get corrosion in. It will create a higher resistance and fail one day.

I work in the marine industry and do a Lot of rewiring of boats. So I'm **** on this subject.

Wished I had a pix, but it was on a new 2012 or 2013 F-150.

Check yours.....Seal it up with some Liquid Electrical tape. Or remove the cable and slip a piece of Shrink tubing with the glue in it over it and shrink it down.

 

Seriously, I plan to use a giant soldering iron and hot flow solder into my main batter cable connectors. I agree with you, oxidation will have an adverse effect on these unprotected crimps at some point.


CMOS

 

Got any pictures for those of us with limited memory/imagination?

 

Sorry...As I said I didn't have my camera with me.

Open your hood. Look at the battery. See the Red rubber safety caps?

Pull the safety covers back out of the way to examine the actual cable ends.

 

Don't solder your connections, it will become a weak point from the ongoing engine vibration. Get a can of Corrosion X and spray it down every other oil change.

 

I strongly disagree. I good, proper, solder connection is "hermetic" and will be unmatched as far as ultra low resistance. An "unproper" or "cold" solder joint will indeed br problematic, but a proper connection will provide a current path that is 10-30% greater than a simple crimp connection. I say this with 25+ years of electronics industry experience.



CMOS

 

I agree- aerospace background

 

I totally agree that a solder joint is the best electrical connection, but I was referring to a physical issue due to vibration. Unless he is able to remove the connection, properly clean, add flux, due proper soldering technique and most importantly, add a proper strain relief since now it becomes a solid connection it will cause more issues than helping. I'm betting none of those things will happen.

Trucks don't use solder connections mainly due to cost. To ensure a proper solder joint and adding the proper strain relief to survive the normal life of a vehicle is very cost prohibitive. A crimp connection is physically up to the task. Since these vehicles don't require mil-spec requirements, soldering for impedance req's are not required.

I agree that these open connections due to lead to failure - the '97 - 2003 trucks had the starter b+ cable corroding away at the starter B+ stud. All I can recommend to anybody if you are really worried about it, replace the wiring with marine grade conductors. Basically doing the Big 3 upgrade as most audio folks due with high grade cabling.

But, there are solder joint butt connections made available with crimping and strain relief -

Sealed Crimp and Solder Connectors

I used these to re-wire part of my boat and after 12 years holding up great.

Oh and you are talking to the engineer who is partially responsible for voltage drop at this connection. PM for more info as I'm using work computer.

 

What Stormsearch said X - 2.

I can't believe no one hasn't taken a pix of this from their truck and posted it yet.

 

I saw the battery leads the first day I got my truck home and thought to myself, That's going to break off after a couple years in Illinois.

 

I coat all battery cable connections with Fluid Film. I do this on every engine I have now, including car, truck, tractors, lawn and garden engines, etc. I had a couple of bad corrosion issues a few years back, and I resorted to Fluid Film after a couple years of clean up and repainting. Since I started using FF, I've seen no corrosion starting. It's easy to apply, and the over-spray can be wiped clean. I try to hit both ends of all major cables.

 

Fluid Film is a good product. We spray the outboard motors down with it.

That is good but to just have raw copper wire exposed to the elements is unsatisfactory.

 

According to Fluid Film website it is not compatible with rubber. You risk ruining seals in electrical connectors and then you'll really be able to talk about corrosion! Better make sure you're only coating the exposed battery cable ends.

 

Their site does say it may cause swelling on rubber products, but I haven't had any issue with it yet. There aren't many rubber products anymore since most use some form of plastic or vinyl. I have wiped it from radiator hoses and spark plug boots though, but haven't seen any affect on them years later. To me it seems much more compatible with paints, plastics, or rubber compounds compared to petroleum based sprays. It's good to be cautious though.

 

i use no-lox for a corrosion free connection!