REPLACING TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
#2
It's been quite a few years since I replaced mine and I'm doing this from memory.
Remove the horn pad by unscrewing two screws on the backside of the horn.
Then, using a puller, remove the steering wheel.
Remove the t/signal stalk by unscrewing it.
Under the dash unplug the t/signal wiring harness. Once unplugged you'll need to remove the grey plug on the end. In the center of the plug is a small red wedge that is removed, then each wire has a small tab on the metal terminal that gets depressed and then you pull each individual wire out of the housing.
Then tie a wire or string around the end of the wires.
There are either two or three screws on the switch itself, remove these and then pull the switch out, that's the reason for the string on the wires. It'll make pulling the new switch's wires back through the column a whole lot easier.
With the old switch out tie the string or wire to the new switch's wires and pull them through the column.
As they say, installation is the reverse of removal.
It's actually a fairly simple job.
If I've forgotten something, someone will be along to correct me.
Remove the horn pad by unscrewing two screws on the backside of the horn.
Then, using a puller, remove the steering wheel.
Remove the t/signal stalk by unscrewing it.
Under the dash unplug the t/signal wiring harness. Once unplugged you'll need to remove the grey plug on the end. In the center of the plug is a small red wedge that is removed, then each wire has a small tab on the metal terminal that gets depressed and then you pull each individual wire out of the housing.
Then tie a wire or string around the end of the wires.
There are either two or three screws on the switch itself, remove these and then pull the switch out, that's the reason for the string on the wires. It'll make pulling the new switch's wires back through the column a whole lot easier.
With the old switch out tie the string or wire to the new switch's wires and pull them through the column.
As they say, installation is the reverse of removal.
It's actually a fairly simple job.
If I've forgotten something, someone will be along to correct me.
#3
After tying the wires together, tape them in place to make sure the string doesn't pull off.
Use a heavy piece of string or twine, a light piece of string can break.
1978/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline use the same T/S switches, but there are three different types.
With tilt wheel (D8TZ-13341-A) / A/T without tilt wheel (D8TZ-13341-B) / M/T without tilt wheel (D8TZ-13341-C).
Use a heavy piece of string or twine, a light piece of string can break.
1978/79 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline use the same T/S switches, but there are three different types.
With tilt wheel (D8TZ-13341-A) / A/T without tilt wheel (D8TZ-13341-B) / M/T without tilt wheel (D8TZ-13341-C).
#4
Yes, NumberDummy is (as always) correct that the string needs to be strong enough because you will probably be pulling hard and you don't want that sucker to break. And tied securely so it doesn't slide off.
Mike did a great job with the steps. You may or may not need a steering wheel puller--I didn't.
I didn't follow NumberDummy's advice and my string broke or slid off, can't remember which. Anyway, I ended up putting each wire through individually. It worked and unless you get the loom pretty tight the bunch is going to want to get hung up.
Dan
Mike did a great job with the steps. You may or may not need a steering wheel puller--I didn't.
I didn't follow NumberDummy's advice and my string broke or slid off, can't remember which. Anyway, I ended up putting each wire through individually. It worked and unless you get the loom pretty tight the bunch is going to want to get hung up.
Dan
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