Sluggish with 2bbl Carb. 75 ranchero (Downgrade from 4bbl)
#1
06-29-2012, 09:54 PM
Sluggish with 2bbl Carb. 75 ranchero (Downgrade from 4bbl)
Hey, Phil here once again with another great question....
Right now i just got my vehicle fixed and everything like that.. i had to have the old 4bbl carb removed because it was drowning my engine out.... problem is now my vehicle runs fine but not to my likes....
Its too sluggish (NOW) due to late shift....... I am just checked for the transmission modulator and apparently it is absent unless i am looking in the wrong place....
Can someone Verify if this is the "EXACT" photo and what area/side the transmission modulator is on a 75 c6
http://i35.tinypic.com/346u6ue.jpg
07/07/2012 09:43 Found the transmission modulator it is hooked up properly and is not lose should i replace it?
(FIXED ISSUES UPDATE):
FIXED GAS PEDDLE POSITION (Sitting in correct position, I found that the bracket was bent to the throttle cable)
Right now i just got my vehicle fixed and everything like that.. i had to have the old 4bbl carb removed because it was drowning my engine out.... problem is now my vehicle runs fine but not to my likes....
Its too sluggish (NOW) due to late shift....... I am just checked for the transmission modulator and apparently it is absent unless i am looking in the wrong place....
Can someone Verify if this is the "EXACT" photo and what area/side the transmission modulator is on a 75 c6
http://i35.tinypic.com/346u6ue.jpg
07/07/2012 09:43 Found the transmission modulator it is hooked up properly and is not lose should i replace it?
(FIXED ISSUES UPDATE):
FIXED GAS PEDDLE POSITION (Sitting in correct position, I found that the bracket was bent to the throttle cable)
#2
06-30-2012, 02:05 AM
Elder User
Get someone to hold the pedal down while you look down in to the carb (engine off!) And see if the butterflies are opening all the way. Then adjust as necessary. Best option would be a proper sized 4bbl carb tuned for your engine. That way you can get the economy and bottom end of the 2bbl with the tire squeaking fun of the 4bbl.
#3
06-30-2012, 06:35 PM
Get someone to hold the pedal down while you look down in to the carb (engine off!) And see if the butterflies are opening all the way. Then adjust as necessary. Best option would be a proper sized 4bbl carb tuned for your engine. That way you can get the economy and bottom end of the 2bbl with the tire squeaking fun of the 4bbl.
So here is some extra info..... My ranchero is not shifting over til 30mph since this carb change back to a 2bbl
Is that normal cause that does not even seem normal at all... to long to shift.
#4
07-01-2012, 11:02 AM
#5
07-01-2012, 02:29 PM
Bad shifting after a carb change could be:
--vacuum modulator not connected. There is a tube from the carb or carb base to the trans and it must be connected for proper shifting.
--kickdown linkage not adjusted properly, causing the trans to hold the lower gear just as it would at WOT.
If it spun the tires from a standstill with a 4bbl, it should do the same with the 2bbl. The difference is the 2bbl will go soft on power compared to the 4bb at the higher rpms.
--vacuum modulator not connected. There is a tube from the carb or carb base to the trans and it must be connected for proper shifting.
--kickdown linkage not adjusted properly, causing the trans to hold the lower gear just as it would at WOT.
If it spun the tires from a standstill with a 4bbl, it should do the same with the 2bbl. The difference is the 2bbl will go soft on power compared to the 4bb at the higher rpms.
now all is left is fixing the shift issue
isnt the kick down linkage the long metal bar that goes to the carb to the bottom of the transmission?
#6
07-01-2012, 04:15 PM
Bad shifting after a carb change could be:
--vacuum modulator not connected. There is a tube from the carb or carb base to the trans and it must be connected for proper shifting.
--kickdown linkage not adjusted properly, causing the trans to hold the lower gear just as it would at WOT.
If it spun the tires from a standstill with a 4bbl, it should do the same with the 2bbl. The difference is the 2bbl will go soft on power compared to the 4bb at the higher rpms.
--vacuum modulator not connected. There is a tube from the carb or carb base to the trans and it must be connected for proper shifting.
--kickdown linkage not adjusted properly, causing the trans to hold the lower gear just as it would at WOT.
If it spun the tires from a standstill with a 4bbl, it should do the same with the 2bbl. The difference is the 2bbl will go soft on power compared to the 4bb at the higher rpms.
where can i find this vaccuum modulator... i have a feeling someone F ed with it.
#7
07-01-2012, 07:27 PM
Trending Topics
#8
07-01-2012, 07:47 PM
Pic here:
http://i35.tinypic.com/346u6ue.jpg
And more from the thread where I found that:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...o-trouble.html
There should be a vacuum line from that modulator up to the carb.
The kick down linkage is attached to the throttle linkage and goes down to the driver's side of the trans. It should engage just before WOT, maybe a tick earlier if you like an early downshift when you gas it.
An image from what is said to be a '71, probably a car:
http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/35...k_down_rod.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/346u6ue.jpg
And more from the thread where I found that:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...o-trouble.html
There should be a vacuum line from that modulator up to the carb.
The kick down linkage is attached to the throttle linkage and goes down to the driver's side of the trans. It should engage just before WOT, maybe a tick earlier if you like an early downshift when you gas it.
An image from what is said to be a '71, probably a car:
http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/35...k_down_rod.jpg
thank you but i also hate to be the bear of bad news... I found out today after removing my crank case i had a stuck lifter and when i say stuck... stuck to the point where i can compare my two cylinder heads and say "Drivers side is clean as a whistle and the passengers side look like someone took a gritty dump on it from heights so far.... you would think that god is crapping on it himself." I had a bolt that is broken too.. i am going to pull and re-soak this lifter and i found a hint of shavings laying in the oil drain whole which is a sign of poor management of oil in this head. I also found a piece of stick inside my heads drain hole.... it was soft so it must have been in there for awhile.
I need some more information based on what is going on.... i wander if it is ok to remove a old hydrolic lifter re-soak it and re install it.
If this is possible, will i have to break in the lifter since it is a old lifter?
I am planning to do this particular thing this upcoming pay check. Not sure what those flakes came from but i can assure my self its not a decenegrated piston. these flakes must have came from the valve train its self by the looks of it. There is no way it could have came from the bottom of the engine up.... cause if it was there would be giant flakes of metal in the oilpans stool.
In addition That is the rod i was thinking it was. mine looks pretty wet and gummy right now... it was not like that before i put it in the shop it was fairly gummy but dry.
#9
07-01-2012, 08:00 PM
#10
07-01-2012, 08:08 PM
Check the lifter for scoring, and any problems on the cam end. You can take them apart if you dare. This is GM stuff, but the basics are the same--don't lose parts:
How To Do Series:Learn how We Disassembled, Cleaned & Reassembled the 57 Nailhead Hydraulic Lifters
This will be easier to watch if you have a couple beers, but:
How-To: Inspect a Hydraulic Valve Lifter - YouTube
The metalic flakes....check your rockers and pushrod ends and valve tips. If you had too little oil up top on that valve, you may have wear in those items.
If you can clean and replace this stuff, you might get a few more miles out of it.
You can get small ceramic magnets at Radio Shack. Put a few in the cylinder heads in the path of the oil, but not blocking the returns. Make sure you don't create an oil drainback problem, but just have the magnet close to the oil flow and away from anything moving. 2 to 4 per side will catch a lot of metal if it's there.
How To Do Series:Learn how We Disassembled, Cleaned & Reassembled the 57 Nailhead Hydraulic Lifters
This will be easier to watch if you have a couple beers, but:
How-To: Inspect a Hydraulic Valve Lifter - YouTube
The metalic flakes....check your rockers and pushrod ends and valve tips. If you had too little oil up top on that valve, you may have wear in those items.
If you can clean and replace this stuff, you might get a few more miles out of it.
You can get small ceramic magnets at Radio Shack. Put a few in the cylinder heads in the path of the oil, but not blocking the returns. Make sure you don't create an oil drainback problem, but just have the magnet close to the oil flow and away from anything moving. 2 to 4 per side will catch a lot of metal if it's there.
funny cause i had this in my automotive help playlist for over a year.
i was debating for saving to get a crate engine. but for now i only need it to move place to place freely or else my apartment complex owner will biznich.
#11
07-07-2012, 11:33 AM
Pic here:
http://i35.tinypic.com/346u6ue.jpg
And more from the thread where I found that:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...o-trouble.html
There should be a vacuum line from that modulator up to the carb.
The kick down linkage is attached to the throttle linkage and goes down to the driver's side of the trans. It should engage just before WOT, maybe a tick earlier if you like an early downshift when you gas it.
An image from what is said to be a '71, probably a car:
http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/35...k_down_rod.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/346u6ue.jpg
And more from the thread where I found that:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...o-trouble.html
There should be a vacuum line from that modulator up to the carb.
The kick down linkage is attached to the throttle linkage and goes down to the driver's side of the trans. It should engage just before WOT, maybe a tick earlier if you like an early downshift when you gas it.
An image from what is said to be a '71, probably a car:
http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/35...k_down_rod.jpg
IN MY STUDIES AND FINDING there is no modulator hooked up.... or either its too dirty to see.... my transmission is a 17 bolt c6 the only way i knew it was c6 is because i checked for filters on AZ so its tatattle tale sign.... is the photo you showed a c6?
#12
07-07-2012, 07:06 PM
#13
07-07-2012, 07:08 PM
2 other things:
--it would be a lot easier to follow what is going on here with ONE thread, not the 3 or 4 you have on the same basic issue.
--If I paid someone $635 to work on my car, I wouldn't be rolling around under it wondering if the modulator was hooked up:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-fixed-d.html
--it would be a lot easier to follow what is going on here with ONE thread, not the 3 or 4 you have on the same basic issue.
--If I paid someone $635 to work on my car, I wouldn't be rolling around under it wondering if the modulator was hooked up:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-fixed-d.html
#14
07-07-2012, 08:57 PM
2 other things:
--it would be a lot easier to follow what is going on here with ONE thread, not the 3 or 4 you have on the same basic issue.
--If I paid someone $635 to work on my car, I wouldn't be rolling around under it wondering if the modulator was hooked up:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-fixed-d.html
--it would be a lot easier to follow what is going on here with ONE thread, not the 3 or 4 you have on the same basic issue.
--If I paid someone $635 to work on my car, I wouldn't be rolling around under it wondering if the modulator was hooked up:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-fixed-d.html
To top it OFF I DID NOT EVEN WANT TO PUT IT IN THE SHOP! I LIVE IN A DAG NAM APARTMENT COMPLEX AND ALL THEY DO IS WHINE ABOUT EVERY LITTLE SINGLE THING! THAT IS ON THIS COMPLEX!
#15
07-08-2012, 12:00 AM