Hi everybody, I just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.

I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.

I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark.

I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs, anyone have any other ideas? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.

 

If it's flooded it could be a whole range of problems. Has the carb been rebuilt?

 

Yes it was just rebuilt and this was the first time I went to start it. I've been driving the truck for quite a while before the rebuild, no problems until now.

I went out to try to start it and still wont start. I pulled some more plugs and they're very wet so I cleaned them.

Could it be a problem with the choke? it's closed and even when I hold it open and try to start it, it still wont do anything.

 

The most common problem to cause this would be trash in the carb somewhere. The slightest piece of dirt can cause it to flood. I'd have to check the floats and confirm that they are working.

 

I took the top off and checked it. the needle is seating and the float is floating.

 

it's a brand new needle and seat, new fuel filter.

 

Remove the plugs, if they are fairly new, clean them good, then place two teaspoons of your reg enging oil in each cyl, replace the plugs, hold the choke open and unless gas pours out of the carb top, it will start.

 

Something is off because if the needle was seating completely, fuel would not flood into the intake unless it was running. Try clamping the fuel line and using some starter fluid. I think your float height might be questionable.

 

I just got back in from the garage and just read your messages, but I last tried holding the choke open and looking down the carb when It was cranking and gas dribbles out of one side of the venturi cluster. I dissasembled the top and took off the cluster and sprayed it with compressed air and then tried starting it and it sputtered for a second but then my battery went dead so it's on the charger right now.

I think I'm going to go pick up some more parts cleaner and let it soak over night and re-assemble it in the morning and reset the float level.

One thing i had a question on, do I keep pushign the float down onto the needle when I'm checking it or do i stop when the needle stops moving?

 

I'm not sure what you mean exactly with the float and the needle but I can give you a basic idea of what is supposed to happen. When the gas fills the fuel bowl, the float rises and shuts off the flow of fuel. If there is trash in there or if the float is assembled improperly, it won't function correctly. Many times flooding is the evidence of this problem.

 

I know how a float works. The needle is what stops fuel flow, when the float rises the needle drops into the seat. The needle and seat are brand w so no tarnish on them and theyodont stick. It could be a problem with my float setting.

Now I was wondering when you set the float height and you push the float down do you keep pushing until you collapse that springy part of the needle?

And I went back outside and the battery is fully charged and it runs now but the idle is kind of high and the choke isn't working properly. I'm going to pull the venturi cluster tonight and soak it again and spray it out good.

 

Is this a stock 2.8 Ranger with the 2150A motorcraft 2bbl computer feedback carb?

If so, my advise is to toss it and follow the instructions on the Rangerstation site and Duraspark the the ignition, and get a std 2150 or 2100 motorcraft carb to replace it.

You will tear all your hair out trying to ever get it to run well with all the emissions controls from 1984 still intact (That do not work anymore) Duraspark it, and never look back!

 

I agree to get rid of the feedback carb and all that but I need it fixed by Monday haha. Will that emmissions controls on the carb cause it to not run? I'll have to look into getting that duraspark conversion parts, there's not many scrap yards around my areea but I do know a guy that has a field of cars and he'l let you pick whatever you want for cheap.

 

You can buy all NEW parts through NAPA to Duraspark your Ranger, a 2100/2150 off another older 2.8 or a 302 is all that is required for a carb.

 

ok thanks for the info, a 2150 should be very easy to get from this salvage place.