trs switch and code 705
#1
trs switch and code 705
I have read a few post on here showing the same problem i have but i have really found anyone that has be able to fix it. I got a p0705 code trs malfuction basically. I replaced the trs switch and still the same problem. i hooked up my scan tool and watched the live data. the tranny switch shows me shifting the vehicle but it doesn't always show the right gear. like it only will say reverse when i am in drive. it does finally show drive but there is a delay. this is usually when the code is set. i also watch the tranny switches. there are 4 of them. when in park they all read closed. when in reverse the third one is the only one open and when in drive all but the second one is open. basically the second switch never opens. not sure if this is normal or maybe part of my problem. short of going through the wires in the loom i am stumped. all help is greatly appreciated.
#3
Either a bad connector at either the DTR sensor or the PCM or a bad harness if you've verified the sensors as being good (note that I didn't say "new").
Run a continuity check and a check for a short-to-ground for the suspect circuit - it's the next step. In this circumstance, either an open wire or a wire that is shorted to ground on the digital input lines will be interpreted as the same condition by the PCM.
Run a continuity check and a check for a short-to-ground for the suspect circuit - it's the next step. In this circumstance, either an open wire or a wire that is shorted to ground on the digital input lines will be interpreted as the same condition by the PCM.
#4
update for all. the problem for this problem is where the wiring harness goes up the back of the engine block on the passenger side. here is how to fix it. wold have posted pics but when i was fixing this at midnight the thought didn't occur to me in time.
1.First unhook your battery for safe measure.
2. remove the cover for the fender relay. there you should see two 8mm bolts below the relay. remove bolts.
3.you can either disconnect the tow plugs on this housing or push them aside. i removed them. one is just a simple push connector plug the other is one you have to take apart by using a 10mm wrench and the bolt unscrews the connect housing. once this is complete move it to the side.
4.the next connector is behind this one still on the fender relay housing. use a screw driver and push the tang down and slide the connector to the battery side. this should free is from the housing. then using the same method as before and unscrew the connector.
5. jack up the passenger side and remove the tire.
6. remove fender screws and 5.5mm fender bolts should four or five of each. then remove the body plugs and remove the fender well.
7. push the connector down the side of the block and out into the fender space. there is not a lot of room here but enough to fix the problem area. what i found was that the wiring harness had rested on the exhaust manifold and melted the housing and the wires. i had two wire melted. the start wire tan w/ red tracer. and a green w/ black tracer.
8. cut and replace the bad portion of wire or wires.
9. tape wires. then tape again. reconnect the housing and tape again. then tape again. then i wrapped piece of aluminum foil over the housing and tape again.
10. assemble in reverse order.
this should fix the problem for good. took about 3 hours and a beer to complete. a hell of a lot cheaper than the dealership.
1.First unhook your battery for safe measure.
2. remove the cover for the fender relay. there you should see two 8mm bolts below the relay. remove bolts.
3.you can either disconnect the tow plugs on this housing or push them aside. i removed them. one is just a simple push connector plug the other is one you have to take apart by using a 10mm wrench and the bolt unscrews the connect housing. once this is complete move it to the side.
4.the next connector is behind this one still on the fender relay housing. use a screw driver and push the tang down and slide the connector to the battery side. this should free is from the housing. then using the same method as before and unscrew the connector.
5. jack up the passenger side and remove the tire.
6. remove fender screws and 5.5mm fender bolts should four or five of each. then remove the body plugs and remove the fender well.
7. push the connector down the side of the block and out into the fender space. there is not a lot of room here but enough to fix the problem area. what i found was that the wiring harness had rested on the exhaust manifold and melted the housing and the wires. i had two wire melted. the start wire tan w/ red tracer. and a green w/ black tracer.
8. cut and replace the bad portion of wire or wires.
9. tape wires. then tape again. reconnect the housing and tape again. then tape again. then i wrapped piece of aluminum foil over the housing and tape again.
10. assemble in reverse order.
this should fix the problem for good. took about 3 hours and a beer to complete. a hell of a lot cheaper than the dealership.
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