so i was having a hard time getting my truck to start after i replaced the head gaskets.... i killed the batteries and had a buddy help me jump it. it finaly started but ran realy rough for a minute or so till i decided to turn it off. after that i couldnt get it to fire again. does any one have an idea of what the problem could be. was it running rough due to the lack of power in the batteries?

 

oh one other thing
i realized that i forgot to torque my oil filter housing down at the end of the night. could that have had anything to do with it?

 

k after messing around out there some more i have some usefull info about this problem that may help solve it.

ficm reads 48.5 volts when kranking
icp is at 4 to begin with then when i crank it over it will slowly build till it fires
icp volts is .3
truck shows trouble code p2285
when it does turn over it runs rough and the wold truck shakes
if i rev it it will blow white smoke
change out the icr sensor and it made no difference with engine off ( batteries just died to i couldnt get it to fire)

dummy plugs and stc fitting were updated a year and a half ago

truck got new standpipes when i did the head gasket job

 

I got the 2285 when cranking back up after oil/EGR cooler change. ICP range/performance. Once I let it idle fo awhile and cleared the code it hasn't come back. On inital start up it idled very choppy and loud. It went through alot of changes before it settled down after 7-8 min of idling but it was still rocking the truck. At that point i "blipped" the throttle a few times and it finially smoothed out pretty good, Maybe 10 min after starting. I only had a little smoke for the first minute or so. Does white smoke smell like fuel or coolant? If fuel smell pull FICM fuse, fuel pump relay and upper fuel filter, have someone crank truck several seconds and watch for bubble in filter bowl. That would indicate cylinder pressure being pushed back through stuck open injector. There is a balloon test in the tech folder that can narrow it down to which side. If you do have bubbles don't crank it back up until you find the bad injector. This would be a bad time to hydrolock it.

 

Well its a HPO problem

Tell me about the work you just did

Did you remove Heads???????



Since you replaced standpipes with head work

Look at IPR screen for damage

and does it have good LPO Flow to oil filter??????????????


Whats ICPV at KOEO????? you said 4 but 4 what?? should be like .16v-.24v Its got a 5volt V-Ref signal to it I dont think you are Testing on right Pins IIRC test at DB/LG color wire
whats IPR% at KOEO??????????????

 

yes i removed the heads, installed new head gaskets and arp studs.
new standpipes that came with the hg kit were installed.
icp pressure was at 4 psi at koeo
icpv at koeo was .3 volts (according to my edge cts)
cant seem to find ipr% on my edge cts (not sure if it does it)
i pulled the ipr and there was no damage to the screen
i installed a new oil filter and it is now saturated with oil so im assuming the flow is good.

after reading alot about hpo problems other ppl have had im leaning towards 2 things

1. when i re installed the dummy plugs i didnt replace the o rings (i didnt have new ones on hand and the ones on there had no signs of damage and the plugs were recently updated any way by ford)
or
2. possibly a faulty icp sensor the truck has 200 000 km and its never been replaced as far as i know

 

Your ICP numbers look OK to me Im thinking the ICP Is fine

if the ICP sensor is bad you will be able to unplug it and the truck should start right up 0 problem

ICP unpluggeed runs off a defferred valvue


This is where edge gauges Fall short with Diagnostic you need IPR% reading

 

ok ill see if i can get my hand on a reader that will get me that...
what does the ipr % reading indicate anyway???

 

The IPR is a valve that restricts flow out of the HPOP, creating the pressure the ICP reads. The pump puts out a certain volume at a given RPM since its gear driven, so the IPR defaults to letting the output drain back to the crankcase, and closes to restrict the draining and redirect flow to the rails. The % is how closed the valve is, the higher the IPR% reading the more flow it takes from the pump to the rails to maintain pressure, indicating a leak past the HPOP and before the injectors.

 

what do you guys think about re installing the old dummy plugs ??? after watching a few videos and reading the forums i think that may have been a bad call
i saw a vid off powerstrokehelp.com and his dummy plugs had teflon ring as well as rubber o rings... mine definitely didnt have those. i think i might start there as im sure they are cheeper that a device that will read ipr%

 

If you installed Updated Dummey plugs they should be fine unless an oring on one of them got damaged during install or something

If it was me in your shoes Id pull IPR Valve out for a look at the screen for damage or blown out screen

After that a Air test might be in order

A ScanGaugeII will get IPR% there 160.00$$ but I dont know if thats in the budget right now I bet your sick of spending money on it for a minute LOL



Where are you located if Close to where I live Id come scan it for you no problem

 

im in vancouver canada... is there a obvious way to tell if the dummy plugs were updated?
i pulled the ipr and there was no damage to the screen!

 

Well thats alittle far for me LOL

Well thats a good sign no damage on IPR screen it still could be bad as theres no Position sensor in the IPR so we cant tell if its moving right. A gauge that will read IPR% would help IPR% just shows that the PCM is Giving it a command to move but with no position sensor we cant see if its actually moving to where its comanded if that makes sense


Lets say IPR OK for NOW


So the dummey plugs were removed during the Headgasket job???

you could have left the Dummey plugs in

So if the dummey plugs got removed I would replace with updated parts

air test might be a good idea to cuz you might have knnicked a injector oring in top inject when you installed Oil Rail. Did the oil rail cause any greif during install??

Could be a couple things since everything got taken apart this why I mention air test it would suck to replace dummey plugs put back together and still have leak top injector

Might be worth changing injector orings out mainly the top oring in injector while its apart its your call obviously but Id be mad to have to go back in 3rd timenif it were me

 

Just wondering if u figured out what was wrong with your truck? I am having the same problem

 

When I had to pull out standpipes I never replaced the o rings never had a problem. I eventually put in the updated stand pipes and dummy plugs.