wiring my 52, using duraspark 2......? @ factory 6 volt guages
#1
wiring my 52, using duraspark 2......? @ factory 6 volt guages
starting from scratch, (well, with a EZ-wire universal kit i picked up at a swap meet)
plan to make it neat and clean, and use factory guages (not sure about how yet) also i'm basically using the factory 78' 300 I-6 ignition, starting and charging system to keep it simply and easy to get replacement parts for.
so far i just mounted fuse box (alittle low, but easier to get too) and routed wire bundles through firewall..
any good links/help about getting these 6-volt switches, guages, etc.... to 12 volt appreciated.
couple pics to get started
plan to make it neat and clean, and use factory guages (not sure about how yet) also i'm basically using the factory 78' 300 I-6 ignition, starting and charging system to keep it simply and easy to get replacement parts for.
so far i just mounted fuse box (alittle low, but easier to get too) and routed wire bundles through firewall..
any good links/help about getting these 6-volt switches, guages, etc.... to 12 volt appreciated.
couple pics to get started
#2
dura/spark ford edis
i am using a megasquirt ecu that you can wire almost anything to go to www.megamanuel.com it has all the differant wiring systems that ford used with all the color coding and what each wire goes to do some research there also check out www.dyiautotune.com as they sell all the parts that you would need for little dollars hope this helps
#3
i am using a megasquirt ecu that you can wire almost anything to go to www.megamanual.com it has all the differant wiring systems that ford used with all the color coding and what each wire goes to do some research there also check out www.dyiautotune.com as they sell all the parts that you would need for little dollars hope this helps
#4
#5
All this may be great info, but doesn't answer the o/p's questions on how to use the original gauges on a 12 V system. To do that, you need to run a voltage reducer to the gauges so they're only seeing 6V and also use the old, matching senders on your new engine for oil pressure and water temperature. This will also allow you to use the original gas tank sender, too. The easiest way to do that is with a constant voltage regulator (CVR) from any mid-60's Ford. They're available from your local, good quality parts store.
#6
If you do an Advanced Search on 12v Gauges you'll find many threads on the subject. I used a CVR for several years but it was a repro and I could see my gauges swinging as it cycled (it works kind of like a turn signal flasher). So I bought one of these:
12v to 6v voltage reducer for gauges SOLID STATE. All makes lifetime guarantee | eBay
Unlike the Runtz reducers, one of those does all the gauges at once and it's adjustable. My gauges are steady as a rock now.
12v to 6v voltage reducer for gauges SOLID STATE. All makes lifetime guarantee | eBay
Unlike the Runtz reducers, one of those does all the gauges at once and it's adjustable. My gauges are steady as a rock now.
#7
If you do an Advanced Search on 12v Gauges you'll find many threads on the subject. I used a CVR for several years but it was a repro and I could see my gauges swinging as it cycled (it works kind of like a turn signal flasher). So I bought one of these:
12v to 6v voltage reducer for gauges SOLID STATE. All makes lifetime guarantee | eBay
Unlike the Runtz reducers, one of those does all the gauges at once and it's adjustable. My gauges are steady as a rock now.
12v to 6v voltage reducer for gauges SOLID STATE. All makes lifetime guarantee | eBay
Unlike the Runtz reducers, one of those does all the gauges at once and it's adjustable. My gauges are steady as a rock now.
ALBUQ, thanks very much..... i'm going to get one of those for sure.
I also decided to add some gauges below the radio.....
I've alway loved "cast" metal stuff, aluminum is even better...
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