After looking online forever and making some phone calls I found out the EX has a BDS 4" lift for excursions. BDS' site reccomends a 33" tire however I'm currently running 35" Federal MT's 1/2 tread wrapped around 20x9 wheels with 0 offset.

I still have a ton of tire gap and about 2" of clearance at the front bumper with the tires at full lock. Rear has plenty of room as the factory blocks are still there plus the aal. I'd like to step up to a 37" tire without buying a complete new lift. Any suggestions on how to achieve a couple more inches?

Kit I'm running.
2000-2005 Ford Excursion 4WD 4" lift kit 300H | BDS Suspension

The federals measure 34.8 when new. I know I could buy the BFG KM2 37x12.5x17 which would measure out to 36 or maybe a little less but they are pricey.

pic of the EX for reference.


My other option is since my front bumper is dented badly, just replace it with an offroad bumper (which is the plan eventually) to add clearance. Sorry for the long winded question.

 

cut the fenders, then you wont need any more lift

 

Well.... I don't want to go to that extreme To fit bigger tires. I don't have any problem cutting plastic though.

 

Amazon.com: Ford Leveling Kit, 1999 - 2004, F-250, F-350, Excursion 4x4: Automotive

Put one of those on the front and a big block on the rear.

 

I've looked into the leveling kits, has everyone had good luck with them?

I called BDS today and they said something about a front shackle kit for the front and just going with a 5" block for the rear.

 

Eric (High Intentions) added a similar spring stack to his for some more lift. He has no problems with it at all. The great thing about this option is that it is cheap. I'd get some new U-Bolt from BDS for the front and the back.

Honestly I'd be more concerned about that huge lift block in the back. I'd probably do some add-a-leafs back there instead. 5" sounds like a hell of a lot of block. Even if you don't offroad, you're gonna make those springs wrap up.

If you get that huge lift block, consider adding some Pro-Comp ladder bars. They look cool and they'll keep the spring wrap at bay.

 

I really don't like the idea of the 5" block, the truck does see some trail and river riding and I really don't wanna get a ton of axle wrap and snap something. Most likely I'll go to one of the local Spring/Leaf places and see what they'd charge for an aal. Possibly a shackle for the rear.......

One other thing was they said something about an adjustable track bar. Didn't think that was needed with such a small lift. He also told me to look into a custom driveshaft since the factory one would be too short. Again, didn't think so with this lift.

I feel like an idiot dealing with this stuff because I'm not new to lifted trucks but this is the first truck I bought already lifted and having to work around someone else's mods.

 

You don't need a new drive shaft. I have 8" of lift and I have no problems with the drive shaft.

If you add the 2.5" spring pack I suggested why don't you just order the track bar relocation bracket from BDS fro their 6"-8" kit, then you should be all set. You'll need an alignment once it is installed.

Part #123602 Front 6"-8" $166.23

http://bds-suspension.com/instructio...05-601-602.pdf


I think some add-a-leafs and a single 3" block would be better. Or you could just buy the 6" BDS springs and change them in.

Part #003609 $304.02

With those springs you could just use the factory block to attain the lift you desire. That is more expensive though, $600 in springs for the rear.

Whatever you do, don't get the 5" block.

Another option is to just buy a complete BDS or other 6" full spring kit and sell off the bits of your 4" kit.

If it were me, I'd add a spring pack to the front, with the track bar relocation kit, then add leafs to the back, new U-bolts and bam!

 

The rear will be fine, but you should get a front one.

 

What is wrong with the front one? You only have 4" of lift right? I have 8" of lift and I go wheeling. Not quite as hardcore as you, but I get it done. What is the issue with the front drive shaft?

 

Ok, I'm thinking the leveling kit, relocation for the track bar or an adjustable one. Aal+block for the rear just as ComputerCowboy suggested.

I'd like to know why I would need the new front drive shaft.

Ultimately if i could run 37x12.50's I'd be happy.

 

You will need to space that stock bumper forward or get the off-road bumper you were talking about. I had to move my bumper forward 2.5" to get enough clearance for 37" tires. I don't have the 37" tires now, sold them, want bigger tires, that's another story. Oh yea, and the blocker beam if you still have it, that needs to go also.

Perhaps Dubbs will enlighten us as to what is wrong with the stock front drive shaft.

 

Is there any reason the mini leafs wouldn't work on the rear? On second thought, then I couldn't use a block.

Browsing tire rack the BFG KM2 comes in a 345/75/16 which is 36.4x13.6. When mounted probably 36" on a 10" wide wheel. If i ran at least a -6 offset wheel I would think that'd work. They're only $331/tire. Is that too wide where I'd be rubbing the front leafs?

 

you'd want more negative offset for that width of tire. I had Nitto Mud Grapplers on 11" rims with -50 offset.

Offset and backspace are related, for wider rims like 10" or more you want 4.5" backspace max. For a narrower rim like an 8" you want 4" backspace for clearance.

A wider rim will pull the tire out so you can have a little more BS. What you don't want is spring rub. Be careful choosing rims, anything over 4.5" backspace was designed for a newer SuperDuty truck with coil overs.

Spring rub sucks, but more negative offset does mean a wider stance which has drawbacks.

1. Your tire is more likely to hit your front bumper (or possibly the back side of the fender) The reason being, the wheel swings out in a wider arch
2. Your fenders likely won't cover the tire, which could be illegal in your state, and it throws crap all over the truck, so you may have to add fender flares anyway. In that case you might consider the cut outs that Dubbs suggested, it will probably cost about the same as the lift mods and you'll have a more stable rig due to the lower center of gravity.
3. It'll wear out your wheel bearings quicker (not a huge deal, those are cheap)

 

My F-150 I was running -12 on a 20x10 w/ 35's. Of course on an ifs truck you have to worry about clearing the knuckle and trimming the bumper.

I may need to just slow down and either do the whole suspension over again instead of piecing it together or stick with a 35" tire on 16's or 17's.