You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I've documented some of my o-ring woes here before, and now I have more.
Quick history...updated the stc a couple of years ago, then put an e-bay o-ring kit in the stand pipes and dummy plugs when I changed injectors last fall. Made it 5000 miles and it wouldn't start hot. Tested it with a multimeter and got .54 volts, air tested it, and had a leak under pass side valve cover. Standpipe o-ring was washed out, and the other side was close behind. Put Ford standpipes in, made it 3 months, and it won't start hot. Same .54 volts hot, same leak under the pass side valve cover. This time it's the internal injector o-rings that seal to the high pressure oil rail. These are fairly new injectors, albeit cheap POS things, but the o-rings look like they're 20 years old. I'm sure they changed them, the outers were new, and these things were supposed to be rebuilt.
So question...could it be my oil? I use Rotella synthetic in the winter, and switch to conventional in the summer. Maybe I shouldn't be switching oils?!? Can't figure out why this thing is eating o-rings.
I put a new IPR valve in when I did the standpipes just to be sure.
2006 F350, Bulletproof egr cooler, home made coolant filter, STC, standpipes and dummy plugs updated, blue fuel pressure spring, CCV reroute, glowshift guages, VXCF9 strategy, 325/65/R18's, 345,000 km, will keep updating as they add up.
Personally any O-ring from Ebay would be on my suspect list.
As for the injectors. When you say cheap I would wonder if
they install new poor quality ones or reuse the old ones.
The key to getting good parts is traceability to a known
good source with the preference being from that source
with out any middle man.As for the oil killing them.
You could say yes or no. Just depends on if they are
made out of the right compound.
I would leave the oil type the same year round
and if you MUST change the weight use the same
brand and type.
__________________ Big Cat and not the one on the tail pipe
"How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time!"
Mods Blue Spring, High Idle(BCP), Coolant Filter,SCT from http://www.gearheadautomotiveperformance.com/
HFCM Drain Plug, Nav System, Leveling Kit, Backup Camera, HID Fog 3000K & Driving Lights 4300K
I did quite a bit of research before switching to Rotella, and a thread title search on 'Rotella' here will yield multiple conversations on the subject (some a tad heated). There are enough people who have been using Rotella for long periods of time that I am confident enough to run it in my 6.0.
It meets Fords recommended specs, there is NO reliable data pointing to any known issues with it (or none that I could find). If it were capable of eating o-rings, I don't believe it would be on the shelves long.
I plan on sending in samples after my second change to blackstone labs to see how well it held up with my driving habits.
There are different types of O-rings, and vastly different qualities. They cost so little I can't imagine not using good ones, but they are the sort of thing that none of us really know much about far less how to reliably buy good ones, so how to tell if what came with your injectors were top quality? Synthetic oil is kinder to O-ring material than dino oil, anyway, per my research.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.