1978/79 F150 with 351M and 4sp manual trans.

Carb that is currently on there is shot. I've already decided on replacing the unit not doing a rebuild. The problem is that the carb I have on there does not appear to be a 2150. Its some other motorcraft carb.



I've been trying to figure out if a 2150 will work and which one I will need to get. Really, the problem is that I have this part on the front of the carb, not sure what it is, but cant seem to find it on any of the replacement 2150's. It may be a climatic choke? or something...



Basically what I need to know is will a regular 2150 Carburetor work on my motor? I do not have a manual choke inside the cab that I have to pull on/off. So does that mean mine is electric or climatic?

I live at sea level in MD.

Will this work for me?

FORD AUTOLITE 2150 CARBURETOR 2bbl Electric Choke 77-79 w/351M-400c.i. V8 #5760 | eBay

Thanks!!!

 

Another clueless ebay seller. If the carburetor is marked Auto-Lite, it's not from any Ford vehicle made after 1972.

In 1972, the US Gov't forced FoMoCo to sell Auto-Lite, as they claimed FoMoCo had a monopoly on autoparts.

1973: Ford introduced in house brand Motorcraft.

2100 series 2V's used from 1962 thru 1974 on everything: Passenger Cars/trucks, 1966/74 Bronco's & 1969/74 Econolines. 2150's introduced in 1975.

The Ford carb ID tag is triangular shaped, attaches to the airhorn with one screw. First pic: See that shiny piece of metal layin' on the airhorn? That appears to be the tag, post the code from it.

btw: There is ONE carb kit for all 2100's. 1975/79 2150's: There are FIVE different carb kits. Without the tag number, it's impossible to know which kit is correct.

 

That was just a piece of paper or something on there. Whatever it was wiped off and was nothing. I can not find any makings on this carb. There is a 16 on the bottom drivers side if you flip the carburetor over. An 11 on the accelerator pump and that's it. A number on the racket that holds the choke on. No metal tag with proper ID.
There is a very good chance that this carb was not original and part of the Frankenstein-build.

So I guess I need to know which 2150 for Manual Trans with no manual choke will work? Climatic choke, electric choke (no wires going to the carb however), or what other specifics ??

Thanks?

 

The reman route worked for me. I just put a reman carb on my '78 F250 with 400M. I purchased it from AZ. It was rebuilt buy a company in Canada. It works great. I ordered with the usual questions (year, model, engine, transmission, California spec yes/no). I bet they would take yours in as a core even if it is a little different.

 

FYI, that carburetor you have now is a 2150. It has an automatic choke too.

The item on the front of the carburetor is the fuel bowl vent valve; if you find a replacement carb that doesn't have it, it's not a problem. It's part of an "evaporative emissions system" which takes fumes from the carburetor fuel bowl and the tank and dumps them through a charcoal canister to get taken back by the intake stream.

 

Thanks for the replies. So I don't necessarily need one with the fuel bowl vent valve? I should just get a new 2150 carb for the 351M, Manual Trans, automatic choke?

Automatic choke, does that mean climactic choke or electric choke? I'm just trying to get my rig running so I can keep working on it.

Sorry for the repetitive questions. I dont really understand all the different 2150's and terminology. And if there are 5 different 2150 Carbs which one for the combo of engine, Trans, choke is the one I need?

 

Most factory automatic chokes are combination climatic and electric. The primary heat source for the choke is a choke stove that runs fresh air through an exhaust crossover to heat it up. Once the choke gets to a certain temperature, the electric portion kicks in to push it open faster. Your present choke is at least a climatic choke; if it has a spade connector then it is combination climatic/electric. The electric portion isn't absolutely necessary; it was introduced as an emissions item. But if yours has it, I'd recommend that your new carburetor have it as well to keep things consistent.

You don't need the fuel bowl vent valve to get the engine running.

Automatic/manual transmission matters because carbs for an automatic transmission have kickdown linkage; carbs for a manual transmission do not. Engine displacement matters for CFM. If you go the reman. route, you should be able to pass the basic info about your truck to the guy at the parts counter to get close to what you need.

 

Awesome!! Thanks for your help!

 

Sorry to hijack a complete thread, but it seems relevant. If not, I am sorry. The fuel bowl vent valve, when was that introduced? I have one on my 77 with ac but I know it is not original. Can anyone straighten me out? also, how do I remove it when I do a rebuild? is it an external star washer?


Thanks

 

Also sorry to high jack but.....regarding the vent valve. If it's not hooked up to anything can I cap it or should I just leave it open. I have a 78 non catylist 400 with no EVAP. Obviously not original carb.