No i can not get a code off it because it has a 95 body and all my buddies scan tools will not connect to it. What kind of scanner do i need, it still has the obd2 connector in it but they will not connect.

 

Cleaning the FPR won't hurt but I don't think it your issue.
I'd build a 5000 psi gauge to hook into the heads do you can see what the HPOP is doing under a load

 

You need a Snap-On MT2500 with the K2a data key, AutoEnginuity software, or an AeroForce ScanGauge.

 

Where would you hook into the head at, can you tee into the line or can you remove a plug and where is it located at,

 

You will see some plugs in the head around the intake plenums. Pull one of those plugs and hook the line there.

 

my 96 does the same think will chug on and of like some one flips a switch till i hit 2000 and it always takes off. FYI i have replaced uvch and pigtails, hpop with 17*, ipr, icp, ebp, fuel pump, bout 5 cps every different kind even the black one. I also checked the idm for water damage. Hope u figure yours out so you can tell me lol

 

The problem seems to be changing a little bit now without being under load it will just loose rpms and then die. If you throw it in neutral and turn the key to crank it will not start but if you cycle the key then it starts right back up, it might die again or it might run 3 or 4miles, no check engine light on. I will put some gauges on after work. This morning it ran good all 10miles to work.

 

OK I got some gauges hooked up and took it for a test drive, while driving my hpop press was from 600psi at idle to 2500psi getting on it. and for the most time it was at 1600-1800psi while cruising, the fuel pressure was all over the place it seemed, it would be at 50-60 for awhile then down to 35 then maybe 25 i even seen 8psi once. I am confuse why the pressure is not consistant. But anyway i was monitoring both pressures when it stumbles and neither of the pressures drop. It always seems to stumble for awhile then it will just die, you loose throttle response for awhile and it show 1000rpm and then the battery light comes on. I tried to crank it back up and watched both pressures and i had just about 3000psi on the oil and 50psi on the fuel. It will not start until you cycle the key then it will start right back up. Anybody have a clue to what it could be, I might put an old cps sensor back in just to rule that out.

 

May be far fetched, but....
Check your speedometer's...PSOM, and ensure their running right.
I had a similar issue at idle, when i would bring the revs up to say, 1500 or 2000 and held them there, it would drop on it's own by about 500 rpms,stationary. Replaced the PSOM,(speedo) and it cured it.
Don't forget, also, these little computers communicate with the pcm etc.
Just thought I'd add this tid bit.

 

The speedo and the tach work fine. I guess, today it ran fine and never missed a beat again.

 

I think i finally found my problem with the pickup, I had remembered that when i was changing out all the other things, i changed the cps sensor out with a standard brand one. I was having trouble one day hauling hay where it was missing and stalling, and i stopped and changed out the cps out in the field and put the old one back in and now it has not missed a beat since.

 

Did u ever find out what was wrong with your truck I have one doing that same as urs any idears???

 

I am pretty sure it was the new cam position sensor I had put in. I put the old one in and it runs fine.

 

I disconnected the ICP and it ran better. The cruise worked fine. What is the EBPV? Will the ICP need changed or is the something the gets cleaned?