About to throw in the towel
#136
The carbs that came with the manifold worked fine when they were on my truck. Are those the 1040's? If so put those suckers back on and try it. Did you save the linkage etc ? Also, I had a pressure regulator on the gas line and an electric pump. I think the regulator was at 7psi. I know there not as pretty as those glass ones but if they work.... Good luck with it, hang in.
#137
have you replaced the wire from the coil to the distributor and made sure it wasn't shorting against the housing? They were famous for breaking right where they went into the housing, Sometimes they would work OK until the humidity got high then they would short out. It's a cheap fix to try. Also look for carbon tracks on the inside of the cap, look like fine line drawing of a lightening bolt between terminals or from terminal to edge of cap where it sits on housing. I remember once where the rotor hit a terminal and turned the end contact.
The shaft and bushings in the distributor may be worn. I'm now looking for a rebuilt or NOS distributor. Also emailed a guy that rebuilds Ford distributors to see if he can do mine.
The carbs that came with the manifold worked fine when they were on my truck. Are those the 1040's? If so put those suckers back on and try it. Did you save the linkage etc ? Also, I had a pressure regulator on the gas line and an electric pump. I think the regulator was at 7psi. I know there not as pretty as those glass ones but if they work.... Good luck with it, hang in.
I spoke with a PerTronix rep today and he suggested that I buy the Flame-Thrower coil and their Ignitor, which will work with the 6V. The coil is 12v, but the ohms are the same as in the 6v. He said that the coil will work with my set up. The cheapest I found them is on Amazon and plan to order both this weekend. I've wanted to get this set up for some time, just never had an excuse since everything was working up to the dreadful moment of the mysterious backfiring.
http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-4001...I1CIHMX68MI8RU
http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-1266...I3M43OGCDGTUU3
I also bought a new 6v coil and spark plugs from NAPA today. Going to throw them on tomorrow to see if a new coil and plugs make a difference.
#141
Still... if all 1904's are as finicky as you suspect AND all you have tried are 1904's, perhaps a different carb model might give you a different response? Just a thought. Plus, I think the 847 *may* have the same diamond shaped and bolt patterned base as the 1904. If so, it could be an easy swap.
#142
The shaft and bushings in the distributor may be worn. I'm now looking for a rebuilt or NOS distributor. Also emailed a guy that rebuilds Ford distributors to see if he can do mine.
I spoke with a PerTronix rep today and he suggested that I buy the Flame-Thrower coil and their Ignitor, which will work with the 6V. The coil is 12v, but the ohms are the same as in the 6v. He said that the coil will work with my set up. The cheapest I found them is on Amazon and plan to order both this weekend. I've wanted to get this set up for some time, just never had an excuse since everything was working up to the dreadful moment of the mysterious backfiring.
http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-4001...I1CIHMX68MI8RU
Amazon.com: PerTronix 1266 Ignitor for Ford 6 Cylinder pre-1965: Automotive
I also bought a new 6v coil and spark plugs from NAPA today. Going to throw them on tomorrow to see if a new coil and plugs make a difference.
I spoke with a PerTronix rep today and he suggested that I buy the Flame-Thrower coil and their Ignitor, which will work with the 6V. The coil is 12v, but the ohms are the same as in the 6v. He said that the coil will work with my set up. The cheapest I found them is on Amazon and plan to order both this weekend. I've wanted to get this set up for some time, just never had an excuse since everything was working up to the dreadful moment of the mysterious backfiring.
http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-4001...I1CIHMX68MI8RU
Amazon.com: PerTronix 1266 Ignitor for Ford 6 Cylinder pre-1965: Automotive
I also bought a new 6v coil and spark plugs from NAPA today. Going to throw them on tomorrow to see if a new coil and plugs make a difference.
I think that you will be pleased with the PerTronix setup. It is a great design, easy to install and eliminates the points and condenser guesswork. I got mine from Amazon too. They had the best price.
#143
I will throw out one more possible cause: a "spun" vibration dampener ring. If the rubber in the crank pulley gave up and the outer ring with the timing marks gets loose you have no reference for ignition timing.
Before sending parts off try some diagnosis. To check if your points and condenser are working try the following:
1 - pull the coil lead out of the middle of the distributor cap then remove the distributor cap and rotor
2 - turn the engine until the points are closed
3 - turn the ignition on
4 - hold the coil to distributor cap lead so that the end is 1/16 inch from a good ground ( I frequently use the coil bracket bolts for this if they are not too coated in paint)
5 - use a wooden or plastic handled screw driver to open and close the points (make sure to not short between the two sides of the points when you do this)
You should see a nice blue spark from the end of the coil lead. A weak orange spark indicates a problem with the points, condenser, coil, or connecting wires.
If you have a good spark and the crank pulley / vibration dampener is tight try to static time the engine. Use a socket to turn the crank until it is about 2 degrees advanced. Loosen the distributor hold down and retard the timing a lot. Turn the ignition on and slowly advance the distributor. When the points fire, tighten the distributor. Reassemble the distributor and see if the engine runs better.
Before sending parts off try some diagnosis. To check if your points and condenser are working try the following:
1 - pull the coil lead out of the middle of the distributor cap then remove the distributor cap and rotor
2 - turn the engine until the points are closed
3 - turn the ignition on
4 - hold the coil to distributor cap lead so that the end is 1/16 inch from a good ground ( I frequently use the coil bracket bolts for this if they are not too coated in paint)
5 - use a wooden or plastic handled screw driver to open and close the points (make sure to not short between the two sides of the points when you do this)
You should see a nice blue spark from the end of the coil lead. A weak orange spark indicates a problem with the points, condenser, coil, or connecting wires.
If you have a good spark and the crank pulley / vibration dampener is tight try to static time the engine. Use a socket to turn the crank until it is about 2 degrees advanced. Loosen the distributor hold down and retard the timing a lot. Turn the ignition on and slowly advance the distributor. When the points fire, tighten the distributor. Reassemble the distributor and see if the engine runs better.
#144
Thanks for the advice, 38.
Some good news today. After spending $20 on a new coil, the engine started and actually ran. Still backfires because the timing needs to be set, but we were able to idle it for a few minutes. I didn't get that on video, but did get a start up afterwards documented on video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Hq9PMnMiDnk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Now I'm thinking that all this time it could have been a bad coil, even before the rebuild. I may not have needed to have the motor rebuilt. Now I joke that I have a $3000 coil. I still plan on getting the PerTronix items. We'll be getting back to the truck again after next week when my friend has more time. Plan is to install the PerTronix items, as well as the Offy intake with dual carbs, and then start her up again to see how she runs. I also need to get the exhaust pipe fixed and the muffler replaced.
I'm just glad that progress appears to be moving in the right direction, so far. I was so pleased with today's progress that I even took the time to wash her after almost a year of no cleaning.
Some good news today. After spending $20 on a new coil, the engine started and actually ran. Still backfires because the timing needs to be set, but we were able to idle it for a few minutes. I didn't get that on video, but did get a start up afterwards documented on video.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Hq9PMnMiDnk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Now I'm thinking that all this time it could have been a bad coil, even before the rebuild. I may not have needed to have the motor rebuilt. Now I joke that I have a $3000 coil. I still plan on getting the PerTronix items. We'll be getting back to the truck again after next week when my friend has more time. Plan is to install the PerTronix items, as well as the Offy intake with dual carbs, and then start her up again to see how she runs. I also need to get the exhaust pipe fixed and the muffler replaced.
I'm just glad that progress appears to be moving in the right direction, so far. I was so pleased with today's progress that I even took the time to wash her after almost a year of no cleaning.
#145
#146
Buy a bag of marshmallows to make smores!!
Really, is there anything that gives a better sense of accomplishment that having an engine that you've been working and having troubles starting finally kick over and fire up? The flattie I recently sold was like that. I worked on that bugger for a couple of weeks, checking this and checking that only to get a back fire if I was lucky. Then I changed out the new condenser with the old one and it fired up. For a second I didn't realized it was actually running. I let go of the carb linkage and it died. I fired it up again and revved it a few times just to hear run. Awesome feeling.
Really, is there anything that gives a better sense of accomplishment that having an engine that you've been working and having troubles starting finally kick over and fire up? The flattie I recently sold was like that. I worked on that bugger for a couple of weeks, checking this and checking that only to get a back fire if I was lucky. Then I changed out the new condenser with the old one and it fired up. For a second I didn't realized it was actually running. I let go of the carb linkage and it died. I fired it up again and revved it a few times just to hear run. Awesome feeling.
#147
#148
Gentlemen, START YOUR ENGINE!!!
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xltHNTR4Sl8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
With switching out the PerTronix ignitor and coil parts, the engine fired up on the first try. The video is the second start. The engine runs and idles smooth. Just need to fix the small exhaust leak between the pipe and manifold. Also, need to get the carbs dialed in and double check the timing.
I had the biggest grin on my face yesterday. Hopefully, I'll be able to take it on a test drive soon.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/xltHNTR4Sl8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
With switching out the PerTronix ignitor and coil parts, the engine fired up on the first try. The video is the second start. The engine runs and idles smooth. Just need to fix the small exhaust leak between the pipe and manifold. Also, need to get the carbs dialed in and double check the timing.
I had the biggest grin on my face yesterday. Hopefully, I'll be able to take it on a test drive soon.
#149
There's hardly a feeling that matches the feeling you get when something you've been working on so hard and long on finely turns out good.