well I bought it. figured what the heck it's only money.
history- 2004 f250 xcab 4x4 auto 6.0. 206000 NO RUST which in taxachusetts is rare. starts hard thought is was the ficm as the batteries were in poor condition low main and logic 9-11 volts, 45ish v during cranking never higher than 47after running. after it warms up at idle the oil pressure gauge drops to 0. blip the throttle shoots back up.

bought 2 new batteries and the voltage was better, flp volts were still only 10 ish fcm 46- 48. checked alternators lower one was screaming hot. checked upper no good replaced it.

flp is now 11-12 volts fcm 47.5-48. still starts hard.

check oil filter and cap both motorcraft. replaced oil filter drain valve. no difference. checked the oil filter housing again broke the stand pipe. replaced. no difference .

after sitting all night the oil filter and housing is completly dry, not a drip drop . after it's been running when I pull the filter immediatly after shut down it's wet and I can watch the oil drain out.

if I wait 3 minutes ish the filter will drip a little and the housing is empty.

oil gauge dosent move while cranking. the longer I'm on the throttle the more time it takes for the oil pressure to drop off while coasting.

I suspect the oil cooler bypass or the anti drain back vavle is there any way to fix or replace them? parts guy says theyre not listed probably part of the filter base for $300 ish.


please correct me if you think I'm wrong or barking up the wrong tree.

thanks!

 

Welcome the world of 6.0L ownership, they're great engines.The dash gauge is an over-glorified idiot light. It only takes something like 7 psi of oil pressure for it to register oil pressure. Let me assure you if you had ZERO oil pressure, your engine wouldn't be running. Not because it was seized but because there isn't any oil supplied to the high pressure system which fires the injectors. It is a fact, no low pressure oil (where the gauge is plumbed in) equals no high pressure oil which equals no pressure to fire the injectors...engine shuts down/won't start. I'd check for a loose wire on the pressure sensor if it's intermediately showing pressure like that. It's on the oil cooler housing...behind/below the oil filter housing toward turbo.If you loose the LPO system, the engine will shut down before it can damage it's self from lack of oil pressure.Are you sure it's an OEM cap? The aftermarket will screw into the housing and looks similar...but is much taller than the OEM. Once you've seen both, it's not hard to spot the difference between the two.

This is the correct cap (sorry for the crappy photo)


This is an aftermarket cap that will cause all kind of hell if your using the Motorcraft/Racor/Fram filters that are OEM spec'd.

Which is about right for the amount of time it takes the drain valve to allow the oil to empty out of the filter housing.Maybe, but I'd check your oil filter cap before I assumed the worse. If the previous owner ran an aftermarket filter, he/she may have used an aftermarket cap so that the "will fit filter" would function. When you swapped back to the OEM spec'd filter; it may not be pushed all the way down and is allowing the drain valve to remain open. You wouldn't be the first person to get snake bit by this little problem.

 

thanks zhilton

the cap looks like the oem, I'm going to buy one just to eliminate that.

the conditions for the gauge to drop are the same, not random at all which with the oil draining issues leads me to believe that it is working fine.

 

For a 2004 model year, I have heard of the ball bearing MIA on the side of the high pressure oil pump causing a loss of base oil pressure at engine idle speeds as well, although I haven't personally come across this particular issue YET. If you want to try something quick and simple, disconnect the single wire to the oil pressure SWITCH (NOT the EOT sensor beside), and jump it to battery ground with the ignition key in the RUN position. It should register in the middle position when grounded. Also check for oil leaking through the switch itself. If so, replace it. It is a very inexpensive part. If the symptom persists after replacing the switch and you've verified the circuit, it's time to dig deeper into the high pressure oil pump.

 

I have seen a few and mike is correct here. the pump can be fixed with a tap and a pipe plug

 

Can you tell me the size of Tap Cheezit???? MAYBE that depends on the Plug to0 to a Point

I want to have my Ducks in a row if this BB Blows out on Me. Or if I ever have to pull the Pump for anything I want to just Plug it while out

Thank You Sir

 

Also to the OP might be a good Idea to clean All Battery Cables all of them even grounds off batterys where they mount to truck

A dirty ground may cause the Alternator to not see the Batterys are charged thus it might not shut off and Burn itself up

You mention its Hot and the Upper alt was Bad so worth a shot IMO

If you can afford it get a DCPower alternator they are Great Alts Best of the Best there

If not DC Power then might be worth trying to get a OEM 140Amp Alt

 

benny sorry man I dont recall what size it is. its not something we can really do for a customer in a dealer

 

Oh I see thanks for the Reply Cheezit Have a Great weekend


FWIW the size of tap and plug I saw in a thread here back a few Iv been searching with no luck yet but I will keep searching here

I just thought to might be hard to get that BB out if still prssed in might just have to wait and see if it blows out dont really know how I would get it out just some food for thought I guess

 

I would be more greatly concerned with WHERE the BB ends up in the engine, if it were to go MIA, more than anything else. Although I don't THINK it will pass through the oil pickup even if it were to make its way to the crankcase, I still would not want it to be floating around inside the engine there, waiting to be a "ticking time bomb".

 

Well that was my thought If I had to go in engine for something I might try to plug the hole where the BB goes. So it would still be pressed in unless the BB was the reason for the work

Then I dont have to worrey about it blowing out and where it may go

I dont have any HPO Problems at the present time so Im not going to fix something thats not broke yet LOL

 

Benny I havent checked the grounds, although the battery terminals were covered with green stuff that I cleaned off when I replaced the batteries.
After I replaced the bad upper alternator the lower doesn't get screaming hot, guessing it was trying to charge both batteries, run the truck and support a junk alternator.

zhilton, I replaced the oil filter cap with one from ford, no difference as to the oil pressure gauge, but 1 less variable.

 

on another note, something my 02 v10 would NEVER do, pulling out into traffic while it was raining I got on it a little bit and found myself getting sideways! the v10 with a 1 legger in the back couldn't even break the tire loose in the same situation. I'm going to like having to get use to this! not buying new tires though.

 

what oil pressure gauge are you watching one on Dash?????

 

Yes it's on the dash.


What's making me think it's working correctly is if the truck sits for a couple of minutes, it starts hard. When I pull the filter after a couple of minutes it barely drips. If I pull the filter immediately there is still oil in the housing and the filter is soaked. I can shut the truck off wait 20 seconds and it will fire right back up. Wait 3 minutes it takes a couple of tries to fire up.

All of that leads me to oil leaking out of the housing and needing to be refilled by the lpop before starting. It looks like there are 3 things in housing. The anti drain back valve, the oil cooler bypass, and oil filter drain.