Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 06-20-2012, 03:02 PM
Johnnymich's Avatar
Johnnymich Johnnymich is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newburgh ny
Posts: 5
Johnnymich is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ignition & Resistor Wire

I will start off with the disclaimer that this 74 F250 has been pieced together like Frankenstein.

Facts:
1) Truck has wiring for elctronic ignition. Rewired for points ignition.
2) Came with points ignition and I had it running for a couple minutes. Now no spark at all.
3) When truck was running I needed to disconnect battery to get it to turn off, switch would not kill it.
4) Points, cap, condensor, wires and plugs were new purchased by PO
5) Coil does not have an internal resistor
6) Ran test light to tach side of coil and the light stays on when cranking.
7) Checked points gap with feeler gauge .017 and it seems to be ok.

Question:

I don't think the wire from the ignition switch is a resisitor wire. Would not having a resistor wire burn up the coil, points or both?

Eventually I will go to electronic ignition, in the meantime I just want to get the truck running so I can move it from the yard to the garage.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-20-2012, 03:28 PM
montana_highboy montana_highboy is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Big Sky Country
Posts: 8,263
montana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud ofmontana_highboy has much to be proud of
Without a resistor wire you're getting full battery votage (12-14v) which will burn up the points/coil in pretty short order.

The resistor wire reduces the voltage to 6-7v on a points setup IIRC.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-21-2012, 01:20 AM
Evan's F250's Avatar
Evan's F250 Evan's F250 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 221
Evan's F250 is starting off with a positive reputation.
He's right. The ign wire should be tan/brown in color and connected to the solenoid. Check it with a volt meter, believe mine read 7.2 volts. If its getting a full 12 volts it could fry the alternator quick too, it engages it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-21-2012, 07:46 AM
fmc400's Avatar
fmc400 fmc400 is offline
MSEE
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 10,386
fmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud offmc400 has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan's F250 View Post
If its getting a full 12 volts it could fry the alternator quick too, it engages it.
This is incorrect; the two circuits are not related. Not sure what you mean by "engage" the alternator; if you mean "excite," then this is done in two different ways (depending on if the truck has an ammeter or an ALT light), but neither case is related to the hot-in-RUN circuit of the ignition coil. The only way to excite the alternator is to apply a signal to the FLD terminal while the alternator is turning.

The resistor is required on all points or Duraspark systems. It's also called a "ballast" and its job is to maintain roughly the same voltage at the coil regardless if the key is in START or RUN. In START, the coil is powered directly off 12 volts through the I terminal of the solenoid. But because the starter pulls the battery voltage down during cranking, the voltage at the coil falls below 12 in START. Without the ballast resistor in the RUN circuit, the voltage at the coil would jump to full voltage and be drastically different in RUN than in START.

The resistor wire drops the voltage at the coil to 6 to 7 volts in RUN and both the coil and ignition module (or points) are designed to operate with this reduced primary current. As MH said, eliminating the resistor limits the lifetime of the coil. In lieu of the factory-style resistor wire that would have been part of the original wiring harness, you can install a stand-alone power resistor (available from the parts store) under the hood. You want something close to 1.3 to 1.4 ohms.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-21-2012, 08:44 AM
Johnnymich's Avatar
Johnnymich Johnnymich is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Newburgh ny
Posts: 5
Johnnymich is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks for the info. I took a look at the wiring last night and the resistor wire has definitely been spliced under the dash. I am going to pick up a resistor from the parts store.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-21-2012, 08:49 AM
gfw1985's Avatar
gfw1985 gfw1985 is offline
Amatuer Restorer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raphine, Virginia
Posts: 3,372
gfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to all
Heh Heh. I was wondering how long it would take for you to see this.
__________________
66 Bronco Half Cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head and intake, Isky 256/256 cam, Keith Black pistons, Clifford header, Holley 390cfm 4v, 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
55 F100 Build in progress http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...100-build.html
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-21-2012, 08:59 AM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 55,821
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan's F250 View Post
The ign wire should be tan/brown in color.
There are three possible resistor wires used in FoMoCo vehicles in the 1970's. None are color coded tan/brown.

COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded PINK / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
D1AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-84-Y).

60" long / Color coded RED with GREEN stripes / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
D7AZ-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-213).

49" long / Color coded RED / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #16 gauge wire.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
DuraSpark electronic ignition introduced in 1974, but not all vehicles came with it until 1976, as it depended on the applications.

1974/79 FoMoCo vehicles: The module used in 1974 is 1974 only / The module used in 1975 is 1975 only.

There are 3 possible modules used 1976/79. One was only installed in some specific sold new in CA vehicles.

Modules have ID engineering numbers marked on them and have a colored plastic square above where the wires feed out.

1976/79: The most common module has a blue plastic square. Specific CA vehicles have a red plastic square.

1979 LTD/Mercury Grand Marquis w/351W's & EEC. Its module has a brown plastic square.
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-21-2012, 09:23 AM
gfw1985's Avatar
gfw1985 gfw1985 is offline
Amatuer Restorer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raphine, Virginia
Posts: 3,372
gfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to allgfw1985 is a name known to all
I think Evans confusing the "I" term of starter relay with the resistor wire leaving ign switch.
__________________
66 Bronco Half Cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head and intake, Isky 256/256 cam, Keith Black pistons, Clifford header, Holley 390cfm 4v, 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
55 F100 Build in progress http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...100-build.html
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-21-2012, 10:01 AM
Harley48's Avatar
Harley48 Harley48 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pocatello, Idaho
Posts: 68
Harley48 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I bought a 77 F250 4X4 with a 460 conversion. It had a "Frankenstein" element to it, too. The electronic ignition had been removed and most of the electrical connections had been replaced with junction blocks. The previous owner had installed a Mallory dual point distributor. I replaced it with a Pertronix Ignitor II module and coil. I eliminated the resistor and sent 12 volts directly to the distributor from the ignition switch as the installation instructions said. I put about 100 miles on the truck and it died. On a whim I replaced the coil with the one I had just taken off and it ran. Pertronix replaced the coil under warranty. I put the second one on and about 100 miles later it dies again. Put the old coil back on and it ran. Pertronix replaced the 2nd one under warranty. I called Pertronix and discussed my problem. The rep said it sounded like a grounding problem and told me to check all of the grounds-distributor, etc. The engine block was grounded to the firewall but, not to the frame so I added a ground directly from the block to the frame and replaced the coil, again. That was 2,000 miles ago.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-21-2012, 02:04 PM
meborder's Avatar
meborder meborder is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sioux Falls Area
Posts: 2,951
meborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud ofmeborder has much to be proud of
I didn't want to be the one to bring it up, but "Frank" sounds like a perfect candidate for a pertronix 2 upgrade.

this will allow you to utilze the full 12v to the distributor, assuming you get it wired to the ignition switch correctly so you can shut it off.

for the $100 it would cost, this would be a very good fix to your problem. You could go back to DSII, but since it has been hacked, the Pertronix would be much simpler.

my 0.02 ...
__________________
Mike
2004 F250 SD SCREW; V10, 4R100, 3.73's -- 2006 Expedition XLT; 5.4 V8, 4R75 3.73's -- 1979 F350 Trailer Special; 460, C6, 4.10's
Moderation Guidelines and how they are enforced
Be yourself - Always ... Unless you can be Batman, then Always be Batman
Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 02:04 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Resistor wire question yetiman38237 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 14 01-30-2014 05:10 PM
Ignition Wiring flyn.brian 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 02-15-2012 07:44 PM
Ignition wiring question fordguy76 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 11-14-2011 10:36 AM
resistor and electronic ignition JoeHarbourJets 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 13 04-14-2011 10:35 AM
quick duraspark 2 question? 8525ford 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 08-24-2009 09:51 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1975, 1976, 370, 48, edge, f100, fi50, ford, ignition, located, points, resistance, resister, resistor, truck, wire

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup