I've searched and have yet to find a problem that was described as mine. Well I just traded my *****ty 1991 jeep cherokee for this *****ty 1985 f350 4x4 dump truck. Problem is it does not run, it has an ignition problem, heres whats happening; key on dash lights come on, everything in the truck works at this point except turn signals, turn key to turn it over and nothing. Any ideas?

 

Need to see if you're getting power at the starter. If so starter problem, if not likely some wiring that has been hacked or a bad ignition switch. Also, try turning the key with a jumper vehicle attached. These old trucks take a hilarious amount of cranking amps.

 

You can test the starter solenoid and the starter by pulling the little wire off the solenoid and jumpering 12v to that terminal from the battery. Solenoid should clack loudly and the starter should spin.

 

What motor do you have? I'm going to assume a 460 V8.

Could be a dead battery, could be a wiring issue, could be a dead starter, could be bad battery cables, could be a maladjusted ignition switch, could be something is unplugged somewhere, could be bad grounds, could be a lot of things.

Does it make any sounds at all? Does it want to turn over, but has a hard time? Does it make a loud grinding noise? Does it make an audible *thunk* as soon as you crank it? What does the battery light/gauge on the dash do when you go to crank it (does it stay bright/show charged and when you crank it does it get really dim or go off/show dead)?

Check all of your connections to your battery (cable clamps), check the cables themselves for corrosion as corrosion increases resistance and lowers the amount of cranking amps going to the starter check your grounds on the frame, on the block, or on the frame and the block, check if your battery is good, check to see if everything is connected to the solenoid as it's supposed to be, check to see if the starter is getting voltage and has good connections and ground.

We need more info to help.

 

Steering column: Below the ignition key lock cylinder is a brass gear, snap ring and flat bearing. Rod controlled by brass gear extends down the column, connects to the ignition switch.

If the gear is stripped (so what else is new?), you can turn the key until Armageddon comes, but the rod won't move.

 

Sorry yes the motor is a 460, the first thing I checked was that rod that goes down the steering column, but isn't that only a problem on tilt columns, mines fixed. I'm going to try and jump the starter solenoid next.

 

oh yea, it's a four speed, no power options at all, really a bare bones truck.

 

IIRC, in the later years of these trucks, like your 85, they'd incorporated a clutch switch in the starter circuit. I don't have the wiring diagrams to check that out, but maybe someone can confirm/deny that.

Anyway, if you can crank the truck by jumping to the little terminal of the solenoid then you know that your solenoid, starter, and high-current wiring is good. That means that the low-current wiring that pulls in the solenoid has a problem or open switch. If I'm right about the clutch switch, it may have gone bad or gotten moved, or you may have something like new floor mats that are preventing you from moving the pedal far enough to close the switch.

 

I've attached the 2 pages out of the 85 EVTM. As you can see, the solenoid gets power from the ignition switch, through either the neutral safety switch or clutch switch, to the solenoid.

Like stated above, you need to make sure you're getting power out of the switch in "start". Common problem is for either the neutral safety or clutch switch to be the problem as well.
Also common for the solenoid itself to not be functioning. Like Gary stated, you can test this locally at the solenoid. If you're going to do this, please make sure the truck is not in gear as you will be bypassing the safety feature.

 

I do see that mention it's a manual transmission, so you would have a clutch switch. I should be mounted on a bracket up under the dash right on the clutch pedal. These do come loose, misaligned and a common issue for the truck not starting.

I DO NOT recommend permanently bypassing this switch, as so many do, if it is your problem. They are inexpensive and easy to replace, and a very important safety feature.

 

Thanks, Kevin. You were the "someone" I was hoping would respond, and you did it well - especially with the safety suggestions. Yes, jumping to the solenoid with the truck in gear could be a career-limiting move.

 

done it my entire life, without thinking much of it. One day I was helping a buddy with his F150 and we jumped the solenoid, his truck leaped forward and right into the car in front of him, we were in a parking lot. He was between the 2, luckily jumped out of the way just in time.

We were both young and dumb, and thought it was funny at the time...it's always funny until someone gets hurt right

Now, I'm just old and dumb ...but not as much as I used to be.

 

1984/86 F150/350 & Bronco:

E4TZ-11A152-B .. Starter Interlock Switch Assy-Attaches to bracket that mounts on clutch pedal (Motorcraft SW-1909) / Available from Ford

Clutch pedal must be depressed to start the vehicle / MSRP: $146.98 // FTE sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $97.01.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E4TZ-11A153-A.. Starter Interlock Switch Mounting Bracket-Use with E4TZ-11A152-B / Obsolete

 

Thanks alot guys, I keep the truck at a friends farm and only make it over there a couple times a week, so it may be a few days before I have some news for you. If it is the clutch switch I might bypass it, my friends 1969 chevy K20 never had one (we could crank the truck forward with the starter). pre 70s safety standards are good enough for me.

 

yeah...if it were me, I'd do the same thing, temporarily though. I know the older vehicles don't have them...but they were put on for a reason.

If I had to do it to get it on the road, sure...but I strongly recommend getting it back on there.

I kinda hope that's it, for your sake. That's and easy and inexpensive fix.

If you gotta volt meter and a buddy...take the lead off the solenoid and check for voltage at the lead with the key in start. No voltage means you have an issue upstream of that. Clutch switch or ignition switch...you can track it back from there.

Easy to test the clutch switch...you can check for continuity through the switch with it open and closed. Can also test for voltage to it in the ignition switch side of it, when in start.

Just use the diagrams I gave you and track it back.

If you have 12 volts at the solenoid, in Start, then you got a bad solenoid.

This, of course, is all assuming you have a good battery and everything is connected properly