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  #31  
Old 01-17-2013, 12:58 PM
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It's just great to see a truck that should have been parted out come back together as a whole. You Da Man. Mister deep pockets I think.
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  #32  
Old 01-17-2013, 01:07 PM
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Because of the engine swap, the center part of the floor had to be made different. First I was going to use the original engine cover as a frame and just modify the center, but It looked like h**l, so I had to throw it away.

I took a new piece of metal and started pushing and pulling in my friends english wheel. It was the first time for me to use the wheel and it certainly was lot harder than it looks.
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After the "wheeling" was finished, I made the endpiece and the hook up points.

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The outcome was much better than the first "patched" version. Now the cover is rigid and you can even step on it and it keeps together
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  #33  
Old 01-17-2013, 01:14 PM
fordCOE fordCOE is offline
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At first I was going make a "truck-size" chain steeringwheel, but I thought that I train to do it at better time. And it does not feel good at those cold mornings.

I decided to buy something new and got the classic Grant wooden one. It will match with the colors that I have in mind and I can allways make and change the chainwheel later???


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  #34  
Old 01-17-2013, 01:26 PM
fordCOE fordCOE is offline
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And like in every project, everything that might go wrong, wil go wrong

I ordered the grant adapter for the F1 steering column, but ofcourse the splines were just a little bit different....so I had to take the center from the trucks original wheel (it was in bad shape so no harm done) and make the adapter myself. It just takes time to do all those small things. And there is quite a few "small things" when you put a Mitsubishi driveline to 50`s COE, as many of you know....nothing is bolt on

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  #35  
Old 01-17-2013, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic y block View Post
It's just great to see a truck that should have been parted out come back together as a whole. You Da Man. Mister deep pockets I think.
You are right about that deep pocket part. Especially when you get parts for the Mitsubishi. Everytime they can surprise me with the price, no matter how high I thought it might be.

For example:

Rear wheel cylinder for the brakes: 240usd/one (didnīt get them)
Oilpan for the motor, plain steel: 1125usd (didnīt get it)
Rear brake load sensing valve: 1180usd (change it from salvage yard with mitsubishis steering column)

An lots of other parts cost a fortune. So now I am using some of my time fixing these things that I thought I just by new. Well this is a hobby for me and it propably takes this and the next winter to get it on the road, but Iīm okay with that....family allways isnīt

Sami
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  #36  
Old 01-17-2013, 01:52 PM
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Wow!! I had no idea. Like the wheel cylinders for my 66 F350 where only around $35.00. And that in Alaska. Did ya call Joblot for your brake parts? even with shipping across the pond it should be better to get some of that stuff over here I think.
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85 XLT Bronco 351W HO 4V Dual Pipes 33X12.5 BFG's
62 Uni 390 C6 Custom Cab Sold for 9.5K
Don't just Modify it Fordify it
A Side Arm Is Like A Parachute, Tis Better To Have One An Never Need It, Than To Need One And Not Have It

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  #37  
Old 01-17-2013, 02:40 PM
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I hope didn't actually throw away the original engine cover. COE specific parts are very hard to find, including the engine cover.
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  #38  
Old 01-18-2013, 07:09 AM
fordCOE fordCOE is offline
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Hi

I have been on the joblot website, but there is no problem with the Ford parts. The thing is that Mitsubishi has so good trademark etc. that there is hardly any parts as an aftermarket product. Only things so far are the oil- and fuelfilters that can be bought from the local partstore.

But I have been comforting myself with the fact that when I get the Mitsubishi driveline working fine, I propably donīt have to buy same parts twice, it is very reliable when it comes to technique. Frame and cab is another story.

I do have the original enginecover, but it is in 6 different pieces, sorry.

Sami
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:09 AM
 
 
 
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