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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

-51 F5 COE project

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  #31  
Old 01-17-2013, 11:58 AM
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It's just great to see a truck that should have been parted out come back together as a whole. You Da Man. Mister deep pockets I think.
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  #32  
Old 01-17-2013, 12:07 PM
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Because of the engine swap, the center part of the floor had to be made different. First I was going to use the original engine cover as a frame and just modify the center, but It looked like h**l, so I had to throw it away.

I took a new piece of metal and started pushing and pulling in my friends english wheel. It was the first time for me to use the wheel and it certainly was lot harder than it looks.
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After the "wheeling" was finished, I made the endpiece and the hook up points.

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The outcome was much better than the first "patched" version. Now the cover is rigid and you can even step on it and it keeps together
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  #33  
Old 01-17-2013, 12:14 PM
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At first I was going make a "truck-size" chain steeringwheel, but I thought that I train to do it at better time. And it does not feel good at those cold mornings.

I decided to buy something new and got the classic Grant wooden one. It will match with the colors that I have in mind and I can allways make and change the chainwheel later???


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  #34  
Old 01-17-2013, 12:26 PM
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And like in every project, everything that might go wrong, wil go wrong

I ordered the grant adapter for the F1 steering column, but ofcourse the splines were just a little bit different....so I had to take the center from the trucks original wheel (it was in bad shape so no harm done) and make the adapter myself. It just takes time to do all those small things. And there is quite a few "small things" when you put a Mitsubishi driveline to 50`s COE, as many of you know....nothing is bolt on

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  #35  
Old 01-17-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctic y block View Post
It's just great to see a truck that should have been parted out come back together as a whole. You Da Man. Mister deep pockets I think.
You are right about that deep pocket part. Especially when you get parts for the Mitsubishi. Everytime they can surprise me with the price, no matter how high I thought it might be.

For example:

Rear wheel cylinder for the brakes: 240usd/one (didnīt get them)
Oilpan for the motor, plain steel: 1125usd (didnīt get it)
Rear brake load sensing valve: 1180usd (change it from salvage yard with mitsubishis steering column)

An lots of other parts cost a fortune. So now I am using some of my time fixing these things that I thought I just by new. Well this is a hobby for me and it propably takes this and the next winter to get it on the road, but Iīm okay with that....family allways isnīt

Sami
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  #36  
Old 01-17-2013, 12:52 PM
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Wow!! I had no idea. Like the wheel cylinders for my 66 F350 where only around $35.00. And that in Alaska. Did ya call Joblot for your brake parts? even with shipping across the pond it should be better to get some of that stuff over here I think.
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85 XLT Bronco 351W HO 4V Dual Pipes 33X12.5 BFG's
62 Uni 390 C6 Custom Cab Sold for 9.5K
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  #37  
Old 01-17-2013, 01:40 PM
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I hope didn't actually throw away the original engine cover. COE specific parts are very hard to find, including the engine cover.
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  #38  
Old 01-18-2013, 06:09 AM
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Hi

I have been on the joblot website, but there is no problem with the Ford parts. The thing is that Mitsubishi has so good trademark etc. that there is hardly any parts as an aftermarket product. Only things so far are the oil- and fuelfilters that can be bought from the local partstore.

But I have been comforting myself with the fact that when I get the Mitsubishi driveline working fine, I propably donīt have to buy same parts twice, it is very reliable when it comes to technique. Frame and cab is another story.

I do have the original enginecover, but it is in 6 different pieces, sorry.

Sami
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  #39  
Old 12-26-2014, 03:25 AM
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Hello again from the frozen Finland. Its been a while since I last updated anything to this site....but its been busy times here. I have started my own business and these projects have been resting for a while. But something small has been going on after the last updates. One thing was to get some heat in the cabin. I bought a good size heater/blower from the local Zetor dealer. The problem, of course, is the modern plastic looks of it. I made a frame that attaches to the original firewall and bended some sheetmetal to cover it. When it gets painted, nobody knows its a modern plastic gadged...I hope. Happy Holidays
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  #40  
Old 12-26-2014, 03:37 AM
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When the cab etc. was sandblasted...a piece of history saw daylight from the doors...If anyone has any info of this Morgan trucking company from Blake street Kentucky, would be great to know a little history of this truck.
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  #41  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:00 AM
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And as usual...the seat were worn and eatean out by years and rats etc.
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This was basicly simple job on my behalf....just removed all the old stuff and welded some brackets for the new seatbelts and some brackets for the new plywood backingboards....
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Then they were sandblasted and powdercoated and of to the upholstery guy. The color might be a litlle light for a truck, but you can always cover these with Mexican-blankets if job gets too dirty....
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  #42  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:03 AM
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As you know, there is basically no place for tools, drinks, ets. in the cabin. I am going to use a bigger tank in the frame anyways, so I modified the original tank for this job. It fits already in its place and now there is plenty roon for all the things you might need on the road.
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  #43  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:07 AM
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Its the little things that always take the biggest time. the turbo had to come a little lower, the transmission linkage had to be build from scratch, the clutch and brake rods redone to new place etc. Propably needs some adjusting when I get it to testdrive....
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  #44  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:28 AM
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When I first saw the GM Futurliner, I knew that I had to have millionaire-whitewalls to my truck!!! The problem was that I couldnt find them anywhere!!! We have this thing called SISU (guts) here in Finland, and I thought that if you cant buy them.....make them! I concidered all the "normal" ways to do this, but allways the outcome has been quite poor: paint doesnt last or comes brown with time. And the big problem of course is the tyresize....theres no truck whitewalls out there. Well Im lucky to have good friends in right places. We where able to use a local tyreshop and their equipments.
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I bought a new set of vintage looking tyres from the local company and then we started working with them. When you have to make the tyres side completely evev and flat, you realize how much there is writings, markings, stripes etc. First the tyres where grinded in this machine manually and then sanded by hand for perfect surface.
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Then we had white 3mm thick rubber mat, that was cut to the right size and shape. It was glued to the side of the tyre one by one.

Click the image to open in full size.

Then the next problem. Normally the truck tyres are resurfaced and there is plenty of vacuumbags for vulcanising. But they are for the thread, not for the tyres side. So friend of mine made a vacuumbag from a large innertube. The whitewalled tyre is in low vacuum in this picture. It has to be in a vacuumbag when it goes to vulcanising oven, or the white stuff drops in the bottom of the oven.
Click the image to open in full size.

The finished product looked like this...we where quite please how it came out. I think this the only way how the whitewall might stay in the rubber...time will tell when I finally get this truck running....
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  #45  
Old 12-26-2014, 04:31 AM
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The cab had had its hare of hard life....the roof and the backwall where quite streched. A friend of mine who knows heatshrinking, spend a few evenings with the cab, and now its not qoing back and forth anymore when you touch it......
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Old 12-26-2014, 04:31 AM
 
 
 
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