Has anyone used Rev x for cold start issues? If so does it work?

 

Never heard of it.

 

I have used it on many occasions, but how well it works depends on your issues. It helped with a little stiction, but when my FICM was going out it of course did not help then, lol.

What are your symptoms?

 

It started off at first just running ruff in the mornings until normal temp was reached. This first happened about two weeks ago. Now its extremely hard to start in the mornings. Once it starts and gets to normal temp it cranks fine.

 

Oooooo yea thats almost exactly what my truck was doing when the FICM was going. Eventually it just would not start at all. REv-x more than likely will not help with the problem you are having as its something deeper. I would start by checking the FICM voltage.

 

What is the ficm and how do u go about checking it? Also where is it located?

 

Would my check engine light be on if it is the ficm

 

FICM test procedure:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html

About the lights... maybe, a failing FICM can cause contribution and injector codes, but I don't know if those set the CEL.

 

I hava also noticed my battery light flicker at times. Will that have any thing to do with it?

 

Yes. A dying alternator or weak batteries can cause the FICM voltage to drop, increasing current flow and damaging the circuit board. Batteries are common because every start cycle the glow plugs can run up to 120 seconds, and while that's happening the batteries are getting hammered. My first pair of batteries only lasted 3 years.

 

Sorry, FICM is Fuel Injection Control Module. IIRC, it controls the flow of fuel to the injectors. When mine was going, it did set the Check Engine light, and I got a bunch of "low circuit" codes. For about 6 injectors. AS said below they have a method for how to check it on here.

 

When you test the FICM, have another person to help. When you get ready to test, have them turn the key. A FICM can go from low voltage to 48V in about 10 seconds. Which takes you longer to go back up the ladder and place probes.

Don't touch the sides of the FICM with probes when testing. Some have suggested wrapping the probes with Electrical tape for added protection.

Test the FICM when cold, like in the morning, things tend to show up more then.

Of course, load test each battery separately.

 

These guys got you on the right track but I would like to add a little. The battery/ charging issue is the beginning of the problem. The light on the dash is seldom wrong, if it comes on there is a problem. Swing by an AutoZone or similar and get the batteries load tested. Be sure to disconnect one of the cables (any one) first because the batteries are wired parallel and a good one will "cover up" for a bad one if you leave them connected. If the batteries are ok, test the alternator it may test ok if it's intermittent and not messing up right then. Rebuilt Alternators are hit and miss as far as quality, if you live near a shop that does rebuilds, I recommend getting the original repaired. It will usuially be less expensive and better quality. If the budget isn't an issue, DCPower makes a high output alt for our trucks and many people here give them great reviews. The charging system does take a beating and the factory set-up is marginal when problem start happening.
The FICM is the Fuel Injection Control Module. It's a good size aluminum box Mounted on the drivers side valve cover beside the master cylinder and under the coolant resivor. Testing it isn't a real big deal, follow Texastech_diesel's link above for the procedure. The FICM looks like one box but inside are two different parts. One half is the "brains" and the other half is a power supply that raises the 12v battery power to 48v to drive the injectors. By design, the FICM attempts to put out 48v even when the battery voltage drops, when this happens it gets hot and eventually melts solder joints in the power supply "half shell" of the FICM.
If your FICM fails the voltage test (after the charging issue is repaired) you have a few options. If you can solder, it's possible to open the power supply up and "reflow" the overheated joints on the board. Or the dealer can replace the half shell (I think). Or the dealer can replace the FICM which is kind of pricy and requires a re-flash, that option is around $1000. Or what many here have done is ship it off to Ed at Ficmrepair.com . A quick search here at FTE will verify he has a great rep and prices are reasonable.
Finially, I would recommend a OBD monitor for your truck so you can keep an eye on what's happening under the hood. The factory gauges stink and only alert you after it's too late. There are several options from the ScanGauge at $160, to the insight, and DashDaq, and others for several hundred bucks.
Hope this info helps and good luck with your truck!

Oh, and on the Rev-X question. There is a slight possibility you are having striction issues with your injectors (if FICM checks out ok). I used Rev-X and did see an improvement but it's more of a band-aid than a repair.

 

It won't always set off a CEL. I know the FICM performance code didn't set off a CEL. AT least it didn't in my instance.

You have to remember that a CEL will only illuminate when a troublesome situation has been registered by the computer either for so long or so many times and then it will set off the CEL. It can (and in more likely then not will) have other codes that won't through the CEL as well.

 

Thanks to all for the help. I just tested my ficm and it has 48 with key on. Drops to 16.5 when I spin the truck over.