Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2012, 06:43 AM
KC Ray's Avatar
KC Ray KC Ray is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Douglas, IL
Posts: 51
KC Ray is starting off with a positive reputation.
292 rear main seal while in truck

I apologize in advance if this has been q&a'ed before. My iPhone doesn't search well.
I am replacing the rear main seal with the 292 still in the truck and have gotten as far as loosening the main caps on the crank, which I understand will allow the crank to come away from the block a little. This hasn't happened. Do I need to remove the clutch and flywheel to get this to happen or do I need to persuade it a little? Also, what sealant should I use on the retainer? Thanks for any advice.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2012, 04:05 PM
spurredon's Avatar
spurredon spurredon is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 4,820
spurredon has a great reputation on FTE.spurredon has a great reputation on FTE.spurredon has a great reputation on FTE.spurredon has a great reputation on FTE.spurredon has a great reputation on FTE.spurredon has a great reputation on FTE.
I have done this to other engines but only automatics. Would pushing in the clutch pedal and taking the tension off the clutch plate and flywheel let it go down? I realize there would now be pressure on the throw out bearing and the pressure plate but it would be worth a try!?!
A few more bolts and the engine will be out anyway!
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:11 AM
Walston's Avatar
Walston Walston is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Marietta, Ohio
Posts: 1,819
Walston has a good reputation on FTE.Walston has a good reputation on FTE.Walston has a good reputation on FTE.
There is a split lip seal that you can get instead of the original rope seal, hopefully you have that.

I have never done this in the truck, but the transmission is gonna hold the crank shaft in place. I think at a minimum you need to drop the transmission and then the flywheel/clutch assembly may move enough to slip the seal in, if not you may have to remove them as well. Good luck.

I would use high temp RTV where the splits meet, last time I did this (If I remember correctly) a small amount came with the seal, but that was like 2005 and I have done others since then and my memory may not be quite right.
__________________
Walston

http://bigjohnstractor.com/
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:19 AM
Walston's Avatar
Walston Walston is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Marietta, Ohio
Posts: 1,819
Walston has a good reputation on FTE.Walston has a good reputation on FTE.Walston has a good reputation on FTE.
On Page 15 of Earl's world, George describes putting the seal in the Y-block. Doesn't sound like he removed much.http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Page15.html
__________________
Walston

http://bigjohnstractor.com/
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:30 AM
f5fordgirl f5fordgirl is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 457
f5fordgirl is starting off with a positive reputation.
No need to remove the trans, the input bearing will have enough play to get the clearance you need. And yes if it has the old style seal replace it with the newer rubber one. Pay attention to putting the two side pieces in, make sure they go all the way up untill flush with the block. Use a little silicone on then at the bottom, torque all main bolts to spec.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 08:45 AM
Talkwrench's Avatar
Talkwrench Talkwrench is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 38
Talkwrench is starting off with a positive reputation.
Here you go this should help you out.
Eaton Balancing » Neoprene Rear Seal Installation for the Y (and others)

Im not sure if your at the point of taking the seal out or putting it in ?
Tip.. Have someone turn the motor as you are feeding the seal in .. or out for that matter . I remember when I pulled my rope seal out I started using a sneaky Pete but it was useless. I ended up using a long screw , screwing it in and pulling with pliers, takes a few goes..
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2012, 03:39 PM
willowbilly3 willowbilly3 is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,894
willowbilly3 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Getting the upper half of an old rope seal out can be a nightmare. I have found that using the screw in removal tool and having a helper rotate the crank as you pull seems to have some limited success. But if it's original 50+ year old rotten rope even that doesn't always work too well.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2012, 09:32 PM
KC Ray's Avatar
KC Ray KC Ray is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Douglas, IL
Posts: 51
KC Ray is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank you everyone for your input. I have been slowly going about this all week, really more putting it off. I have installed a new neoprene seal today! I took the old neoprene one out earlier this past week and had to wait on a new one to come in. Hopefully I will get it all buttoned up Monday. I have been taking pictures and notes all along so I will attempt to submit a tech article soon.
Air Assault!
Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2012, 09:32 PM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1982, 2004, 292, 302, diesel, f100, f250, ford, main, rear, seal, turbo

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup