1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Box Style Ford Trucks
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I apologize in advance if this has been q&a'ed before. My iPhone doesn't search well.
I am replacing the rear main seal with the 292 still in the truck and have gotten as far as loosening the main caps on the crank, which I understand will allow the crank to come away from the block a little. This hasn't happened. Do I need to remove the clutch and flywheel to get this to happen or do I need to persuade it a little? Also, what sealant should I use on the retainer? Thanks for any advice.
I have done this to other engines but only automatics. Would pushing in the clutch pedal and taking the tension off the clutch plate and flywheel let it go down? I realize there would now be pressure on the throw out bearing and the pressure plate but it would be worth a try!?!
A few more bolts and the engine will be out anyway!
There is a split lip seal that you can get instead of the original rope seal, hopefully you have that.
I have never done this in the truck, but the transmission is gonna hold the crank shaft in place. I think at a minimum you need to drop the transmission and then the flywheel/clutch assembly may move enough to slip the seal in, if not you may have to remove them as well. Good luck.
I would use high temp RTV where the splits meet, last time I did this (If I remember correctly) a small amount came with the seal, but that was like 2005 and I have done others since then and my memory may not be quite right.
No need to remove the trans, the input bearing will have enough play to get the clearance you need. And yes if it has the old style seal replace it with the newer rubber one. Pay attention to putting the two side pieces in, make sure they go all the way up untill flush with the block. Use a little silicone on then at the bottom, torque all main bolts to spec.
Im not sure if your at the point of taking the seal out or putting it in ?
Tip.. Have someone turn the motor as you are feeding the seal in .. or out for that matter . I remember when I pulled my rope seal out I started using a sneaky Pete but it was useless. I ended up using a long screw , screwing it in and pulling with pliers, takes a few goes..
Getting the upper half of an old rope seal out can be a nightmare. I have found that using the screw in removal tool and having a helper rotate the crank as you pull seems to have some limited success. But if it's original 50+ year old rotten rope even that doesn't always work too well.
Thank you everyone for your input. I have been slowly going about this all week, really more putting it off. I have installed a new neoprene seal today! I took the old neoprene one out earlier this past week and had to wait on a new one to come in. Hopefully I will get it all buttoned up Monday. I have been taking pictures and notes all along so I will attempt to submit a tech article soon.
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