I know it's easier to just buy a 4x4 truck but this is my first truck and I love working on it. So i dont mind a little hard labor lol.

I was wondering if anyone could make a list of everything I need to do it I can go get all the parts I need off a truck a the jy.

I'm sure there's another thread on here asking the exact same thing I'm asking so a link to it would be ok too. Thanks

 

-Axle beams
-Axle shafts
-Steering knuckles (Don't get ones from a 1994-1996)
-Differential
-Radius arms
-Coil spring seats
-Spindles (Should be bolted to the knuckles)
-All of the bearing retainers you remove from the spindle
-3" wide rear leaf springs/shackles/hangers
-Rear axle gears to match the ratio in your newly acquired front differential
-If your truck is an automatic without the transmission inspection plate, you'll need the inspection plate and you'll need to cut your floor to add it.
-Transfer Case
-4x4 transmission (It's easier this way)
-4x4 transmission cross-member from a 1980-1986 truck
-T-case shifter
-4x4 wiring indicator harness that goes from the transfer case all the way to the gauge cluster
-Rear 2" lift blocks to lift the rear of the truck to match the front


I think that's most of it. You can re-use your 4x2 front coil springs, shocks, and steering linkage. Technically, you don't really have to swap out your rear springs/shackles/hangers. However the list above is everything you need to do a factory correct 4x4 install.

Make sure you match up your front and rear axle ratios. If not, you may have major issues.

Keep track of which year of truck your steering knuckles came from, as there may have been differences in how the brake caliper mounts to the knuckle. 1994-1996 steering knuckles utilize the newer style bolt on calipers, which are about $20 more expensive per side than the 1980-1993 slider pin calipers.

 

Or you can do what I did and make it even easier. I bought a 4x4 F250 rolling chassis, rebuilt the chassis from the ground up, rebuilt the tranny from the 4x4 and transfer case, removed my body and motor and put it on the "new" rolling chassis. Used all the good parts from my 2x4 (gas tanks, fuel lines, brake lines, etc) and it all fit and worked like a charm. The only thing I did to my original truck was cut the hole in the floor for the 4x4 shifter. Great project and pretty simple. Just a big puzzle to put back together.

 

True point, unless the truck in question is his daily driver.

 

The simplified list:
Complete front axle assemblies, with brake rotors and calipers (calipers are the same 2wd/4wd per year model, but can vary between years).
Trans/transfer case from a 4wd.
Rear axle or 3rd member to match the ratio of the front axle. If you get lucky and the front axle matches what is already in the rear, this can be skipped. The rear axle is otherwise the same. Factory 4wd ratios are much more limited than 2wd ratios, so chances are only about 50/50 that you have a ratio that was offered in both drive types. (also see below for added info)
Driveshafts from 4wd truck with the same wheelbase and trans type. Front shaft remains the same regardless off wheelbase, but varies with some trans types.
Rear spacer blocks (2") to go between the springs and axle. These can be from a factory 4wd, or aftermarket "lift" blocks. Longer shocks and brake hose for the rear axle *should* be used, but not 100% required if you are careful. Front axle has approx 2" "lift" built in, rear blocks are needed to maintain correct stance.
Floorboard "hump" from a 4wd truck. This bolts into place and allows for the transfer case shifter/boot. It's not really needed in most cases, but best to have it.

Items that are the same:
Steering linkage, front springs and shocks, front brake hoses. Radius arm bushings, and RA frame mounts & axle pivot mounts.
The frame is the same, though some have a different front crossmember under the radiator. This is a bolt in piece, and can be swapped if needed, typically only needed to allow installation of the factory 4wd swaybar (not used on all trucks).

Items that are different, but can still used:
Rear springs and hangers. 2wd uses 2.5" wide leaf springs, 4wd uses 3" wide. This only becomes an issue if you try to install an aftermarket lift kit that includes new rear leaf springs (the proper way to add lift) rather than thicker lift blocks (bad idea).
Rear shocks and brake hose are longer for a 4wd. Using the shorter 2wd items reduces the distance the axle can travel away from the frame, but this is really only an issue if you are "getting air" (another bad idea). Getting the longer ones for a 4wd is recommended.


It is seriously that easy.


EDIT: This swap can be performed on either an F100 or F150. If done on F100, the rear axle assembly *may* be needed to match the bolt pattern on the front, since some 2wd F100's use a 4.5" bolt pattern wheel, and all 4wd's use a 5.5" bolt pattern.

 

Does the floorboard "hump" panel of a 4x2 manual transmission already have a cut-out for the 4x4 transfer case boot/shifter?

 

Not that I'm aware of. you'll have to cut that part out. It *may* have a marking, but I honestly don't know.
They used the same type bolt-in piece for both 2wd manuals (except 3spd) and 4wd's regardless of which trans. They only cut out the area(s) needed for the specific application it was originally intended to fit.

 

Your best bet is to find a 4x4 of similar age in the classifieds with a bad engine or body for cheap and just start moving stuff over, or just throw your body on to its chassis. It'll be a lot handier to have it sitting there for odds and end pieces and just to look at the differences side by side. And if you want you can swap your 2wd stuff onto your 4x4 donor and sell it. I know that sounds a bit crazy rather than just buying and driving the 4x4 but I completely understand having extremely loyalty to a certain truck.

 

That is my plan. Just waiting for the donor to come along...

 

I did this once, and while it does sound crazy, it wasn't that bad. Actually I put 3/4 ton gear under my SWB 4x2 F150 which made it a tad more interesting but I had more testosterone than brain cells.

It was worth it though - F250 badges on the side of a SWB Stepside through everyone for a loop. Sure wish I'd never sold that truck but mistakes like that are how you grow brain cells.

The three things you'll need -
1) A donor truck
2) A garage big enough to park your truck and the donor side by side
3) A good friend

Good Luck and have Fun! Keep us posted.