Toyota gearbox pitman shaft kinda boogered.
#1
Toyota gearbox pitman shaft kinda boogered.
I got this a couple months ago from a private seller, (I got it fairly cheap, and there's no refund possible) and I'm still a few months away from installing it....
It looks like it was dropped in shipping, or somebody went after it with a big hammer. It wasn't packed that well, and these gearboxes are kind awkward to carry anyways...
To get the pitman arm nut on there, I'm gonna have to cut about 3/8" off the end of that shaft, to get back into un-smashed threads.
Can someone take a look at thiers and see how much "extra" shaft you have with the nut on there tight?
Is there another way to fix the threads?
Thanks!
It looks like it was dropped in shipping, or somebody went after it with a big hammer. It wasn't packed that well, and these gearboxes are kind awkward to carry anyways...
To get the pitman arm nut on there, I'm gonna have to cut about 3/8" off the end of that shaft, to get back into un-smashed threads.
Can someone take a look at thiers and see how much "extra" shaft you have with the nut on there tight?
Is there another way to fix the threads?
Thanks!
#2
#3
toy pitman arm
some pics there is three pictures , and one isn't showing up on the post unless you click on the others and then look at the previous ,next and next. That thread file looks like a great idea. Don't cut the end of the shaft off. You might file it down until you get to the outside dimension and then use the thread file.
Last edited by timboy; 06-11-2012 at 04:29 PM. Reason: add a picture
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#8
Not sure why you would have to heat it? If you are going to take the shaft out, best to take it to a machinist at that point. I don't know how hard it would be to find a metric die the right size. You would need to be real careful taking the box apart, it's a recirculating ball type rather than a pinion and sector design, so it's full of loose *****, don't loose any! You can buy another box for 20.00-100.00.
#9
Not sure why you would have to heat it? If you are going to take the shaft out, best to take it to a machinist at that point. I don't know how hard it would be to find a metric die the right size. You would need to be real careful taking the box apart, it's a recirculating ball type rather than a pinion and sector design, so it's full of loose *****, don't loose any! You can buy another box for 20.00-100.00.
Where you finding the boxes for 20-100? I would love to buy a couple extra for upcoming projects. All the boxes I am finding are 200-300.
Here are some specs I found online for the box. Thought it might help.
<table id="prodspecs" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td>Input Shaft Diameter (in):</td><td> 0.68</td></tr><tr><td>Input Shaft Spline Count:</td><td> 54</td></tr><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr><tr><td>Output Shaft Diameter (in):</td><td> 1.257</td></tr><tr><td>Output Shaft Spline Count:</td><td> 24</td></tr><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr><tr><td>Power Steering Inlet Size:</td><td> 16mm X 1.5</td></tr><tr><td>Power Steering Outlet Size:</td><td> 18mm X 1.5</td></tr><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr><tr><td>
</td><td>
</td></tr><tr><td>Steering Box Type:</td><td> Power Assist</td></tr><tr><td>Steering Input Shaft Type:</td><td> Splined</td></tr><tr><td>Total Turns Lock To Lock:</td><td> 4.5</td></tr></tbody></table>
#10
Teardropty:
Thanks for the measurements, that's good info to have!
Also, I bought this one for $75.
One resource I found was the Rock-crawler type forums. Pirate4x4.com is one. Register with the site (free) and put a wanted ad up...(I didn't mention that it's for a Ford/street rod/etc...not interested in that argument) I got a few responses in a couple of days.
Apparently, those Toyota guys take the PS off immediately and upgrade to some high-steer/IFS system, and toss the PS boxes aside. One guy actually said he threw his in the trash.
Thanks for the measurements, that's good info to have!
Also, I bought this one for $75.
One resource I found was the Rock-crawler type forums. Pirate4x4.com is one. Register with the site (free) and put a wanted ad up...(I didn't mention that it's for a Ford/street rod/etc...not interested in that argument) I got a few responses in a couple of days.
Apparently, those Toyota guys take the PS off immediately and upgrade to some high-steer/IFS system, and toss the PS boxes aside. One guy actually said he threw his in the trash.
#11
Teardropty:
Thanks for the measurements, that's good info to have!
Also, I bought this one for $75.
One resource I found was the Rock-crawler type forums. Pirate4x4.com is one. Register with the site (free) and put a wanted ad up...(I didn't mention that it's for a Ford/street rod/etc...not interested in that argument) I got a few responses in a couple of days.
Apparently, those Toyota guys take the PS off immediately and upgrade to some high-steer/IFS system, and toss the PS boxes aside. One guy actually said he threw his in the trash.
Thanks for the measurements, that's good info to have!
Also, I bought this one for $75.
One resource I found was the Rock-crawler type forums. Pirate4x4.com is one. Register with the site (free) and put a wanted ad up...(I didn't mention that it's for a Ford/street rod/etc...not interested in that argument) I got a few responses in a couple of days.
Apparently, those Toyota guys take the PS off immediately and upgrade to some high-steer/IFS system, and toss the PS boxes aside. One guy actually said he threw his in the trash.
#12
I've seen a number of them <100.00 on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market I bought mine there for 75.00.
One correction to dropty's specs, the return line fitting is a non standard 17mm not 18mm, that's why it is important to be sure to get the fitting with the box.
One correction to dropty's specs, the return line fitting is a non standard 17mm not 18mm, that's why it is important to be sure to get the fitting with the box.
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#14
Hey Fellas, thanks for all the input, but please tell me if this is a bad idea....
1. File down the section of the damaged threads to get the shaft back closer to the original diameter of the shaft.
2. Go to Fastenal and buy a Grade 8 nut that fits that pitman shaft. Cut the nut in half, and put it on the back part of the shaft, behind where the threads are mushed. Carefully, clamp it down into the threads and weld the nut back together.
3. Slowly, with cutting fluid, start backing that nut off the shaft, using the nut to the straighten out the damaged threads.
As long as the nut is harder than the shaft, it should work like a die, right?
1. File down the section of the damaged threads to get the shaft back closer to the original diameter of the shaft.
2. Go to Fastenal and buy a Grade 8 nut that fits that pitman shaft. Cut the nut in half, and put it on the back part of the shaft, behind where the threads are mushed. Carefully, clamp it down into the threads and weld the nut back together.
3. Slowly, with cutting fluid, start backing that nut off the shaft, using the nut to the straighten out the damaged threads.
As long as the nut is harder than the shaft, it should work like a die, right?
#15
IMHO, it's a bad idea. You'll never get a nut welded back together well enough to do the job you're thinking of, and you'll very likely make an even bigger mess. A die is not only hard, but has knife edge threads designed to cut. A regular nut no matter what grade isn't made to do that.
For about $10, you can purchase a thread file as I mentioned earlier and fix the threads that way better and easier than your proposed method. It's not difficult at all.
For about $10, you can purchase a thread file as I mentioned earlier and fix the threads that way better and easier than your proposed method. It's not difficult at all.