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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #16  
Old 06-25-2012, 07:35 PM
norfolknova norfolknova is offline
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Thanks, for posting the pic. That is one of the next upgrades for my 92 F250.

Matt
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  #17  
Old 06-25-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimiLL View Post
Ok thanks for the info. Is there any cooler you suggest? Should I just replace the one that came stock on the truck with the new unit?

Im looking at something like this..B&M SUPERCOOLER 13,000 BTU TRANSMISSION TRANS SUPER COOLER, LOW PRESSURE DROP | eBay

Or could I get away with something less extensive?
it really depends on how you use your truck,what your average outside temps are too.
you want to strive for 170-180 temps at the test port.with lower or hotter being away from perfect trans temps.
you may want to start with the gauge first,and go from there.

thats the exact cooler i run with mine (B&M #70268) up here in Maine for my heavy hauler truck.for 9 months out of the year it was too much cooler,so i had to install an aux oil t-stat in front of it to help keep temps up.
for the other 3 months however,it's not quite enough and im running warmer than i want on our 80-90 degree days when hauling heavy.nothing drastic,but now that i have the t-sat,i think i'll just upgrade to a larger cooler.
really,you won't know whats needed (if one is even needed at all) until you personally monitor your truck for a bit with a temp gauge.


edit;
you know though,looking at this again:
http://www.digi-panel.com/trannyoil.htm

the highest i see even on our warmest days at the "converter outlet to cooler" is only 225ish.and that's kinda rare.the other day i did see 235-240 for a couple mins here.
i jumped out with with infra red test gun and measured temp at the pan,and it was only 180.
so i guess im good.i was just getting scared of the higher temp readings before the coolers,since im not used to seeing the gauge read over 200 here.looking at the chart,and remembering my test light test the other day at the pan with these readings,i guess that cooler is exactly ideal for my truck/location/work duty after all.thinking back with the plow on,they don't even get that high either,or if it does when we get a lot of snow to push,it might.but just like summer hauling,even that is brief too.

it's kinda cool to monitor fluid temps here,but listen to the other guys who suggest the test port.it's far less scary.
i do kinda like it here though,because i can adjust my driving style quick to keep temps from really spiking,but it most likely is getting a bit too carried away/over worrying and i should just put my sensor back at the test port.
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  #18  
Old 06-25-2012, 08:35 PM
BrianDguy BrianDguy is offline
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All the reasons you have listed there 250hd, are the reasons my sending unit is in the output to cooler line. In my mind, this gives you the best 'second by second' data on how the tranny is working. Plus, I will know of extended peak temps that will kill my fluid. Bad fluid = bad tranny. But that is just MY opinion.
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  #19  
Old 06-25-2012, 09:56 PM
JimiLL JimiLL is offline
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Thanks for all the help!
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  #20  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:14 PM
JimiLL JimiLL is offline
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Ok, now forgive my lack of knowledge, but what exactly is the difference between an analog or mechanical temp gauge vs a electric one? Can I use either with this set up of going into the test port? There is a digital readout gauge I would like to order but just need to make sure its going to work
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  #21  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:21 PM
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i use the cyberdyne digital electrical trans temp gauge.their fitting screws right into the test port (pretty sure.been a while since i had it there.)
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  #22  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:43 PM
JimiLL JimiLL is offline
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B&M cooler and Cyberdyne temp gauge ordered. Lookin forward to the install! Now where is the best place to put the cooler? In place of the stock smaller unit?
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2012, 08:58 PM
JimiLL JimiLL is offline
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Could I get a verification on whether to replace the stock trans cooler infront of the radiator with the B&M or put it inline?
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  #24  
Old 06-27-2012, 09:14 PM
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the stock trans cooler on mine is a stacked plate design like the b&m cooler
its very little restriction so id put the b&m one as the inlet to the hottest trans fluid and the factory one inline after the new one....
BUT it really depends on how hot you are getting the fluid
you need to get the fluid hot enough to evaporate all the condensation (from heating and cooling) and keep trans fluid temp below 210
if you notice temps above 210 then you need an additional cooler

my 67 mustang frequently has trans temps over 240 (3200 stall converter and i footbrake it a lot) and as long as you can cool it off in a reasonable amount of time, you are fine. my oil analasys of the fluid shows that it has not been effected very much with the extreme use. granted, this is in a strip/street car that may only see 3000 miles a year, not a truck that gets 12-15k a year, slightly different application
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2012, 11:01 PM
JimiLL JimiLL is offline
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Ok good info. Im gonna install the gauge first and see just how hot its getting. Maybe just have to replace the stock one with the B&M and it be good enough
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  #26  
Old 07-10-2012, 09:06 AM
JimiLL JimiLL is offline
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Ok got the gauge hooked up.... looks like headin down the road with no load it stays within 150 deg.... I noticed that on a heavy pull when the seal started to leak fluid again the trans got upto 190..... again I have the probe installed in the test port.

Im thinking I infact will not need the trans cooler like I once thought.... I cant see the trans getting much over 200 even on a very warm day. Thoughts?
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  #27  
Old 07-10-2012, 09:12 AM
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With unloaded it goes to 190 then loaded will get easy into the 210-220 range.
Just load it real heavy and go for a test ride. That's how you'll know.
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  #28  
Old 07-29-2012, 11:48 PM
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Ok, getting ready to service the old E4 and replace the front main seal.

Now I saw a write up somewhere on here about servicing the trans, and it said to completely drain the fluid out of the trans and TC to pull the return line off the trans and let the truck idle until some air starts coming out.... now correct me if Im wrong, but wont that be running the trans dry, causing damage?
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  #29  
Old 07-30-2012, 05:27 AM
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Just drain from trans by dropping the pan.
You really shouldn't run the trans dry.
There won't be too much come out of the converter. If you're dropping the trans then the converter can come out with it. Then you pull it out and drain fluid from the converter.
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  #30  
Old 08-17-2012, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimiLL View Post
Ok, getting ready to service the old E4 and replace the front main seal.
Hi JimiLL,
I am getting ready to do the same. What did you do to "service" the E4, and can you share any thoughts on the process? Any gotchas? Any things you wish you had done differently? Any things you wish you had done that you didn't? Did you buy a kit of some sort?

thanks!
mikey
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Old 08-17-2012, 09:57 AM
 
 
 
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