I'm sorry about that. I told you to use it. You should be able to sell it for a good portion of what you paid.
What distributor are you using?
It is not your fault at all; the Summit racing distributor you recommended was awesome and it would have worked fine if I did not have the particular A/C unit I have.
I am now installing the MSD 8350. I just got it installed a few minutes ago, now all I need to do is wire it up. I need to figure out whether to run it as the MSD instructions state (straight to the coil and to a ground) or to use the 3 wire plug that comes from the Ford Duraspark ignition box as part of the wiring. Studying wiring diagrams right now. Single wire HEI would have been easier.
The good news is my A/C compressor clearance issue is solved!
Originally Posted by BuzzLOL
.. A longer fan belt might have cured that problem?
This particular A/C has a 3 bolt fixed mount; I know what you were thinking...rotate the A/C compressor out of the way via a longer belt...but my setup uses a tensioner on the belt.
I am a few wires, a radiator hose, and some coolant away from firing it up. Hopefully today before dark or tomorrow sometime.
.. Then no longer belt needed, just slot the A/C mount bolt hole... actually, I would have just used the stock Duraspark at this performance level...
Not possible to slot it. There are three mount holes. You have to take my word for it, there was no way that HEI dizzy was going to work with my A/C compressor. I'll post up pics later and you will see what I mean.
At this performance level? My build is pretty much all-out. Bored out to 408, Aussie heads built by Tim Meyer (SS valves and bronze guides), custom ground hydraulic roller cam, Tim Meyer pistons, Moly rings, 9.5:1 compression, Lunati hydraulic roller lifters, scorpion roller rockers, FRPP billet valve covers, new A/C compressor, entire engine bay painted...there is no reason at this point for me to cut any corners at all.
Keeping the stock distributor and DuraSpark was certainly an option, but as stated previously in this thread, I would have had to re-curve it. The MSD comes with a complete spring kit, 3 stop bushings, electronic rev limiter, centrifugal advance, vac advance (both of which can be locked out), and can be run as-is or with an MSD ignition box in the future. It will also work with MSD's EFI conversion should I proceed in that direction down the road. My point is I can tune this distributor to get it just right.
For what it is worth, my previous factory distributor failed @ 120,000 miles. It was the stator assembly.
Well, I ran out of daylight, and it is sleeting on me now.
I got the MSD distributor installed and wired - I followed the MSD instructions and avoided trying to interface it with the DuraSpark other than using the + Coil power wire. I hope it puts out a full 12 volts with ignition key on. I'll validate that with my multi-meter before start. I am also using the MSD Blaster II coil. Does anyone know if the capacitor (or is it a big resistor - it looks just like a cap) that was on the factory coil mount bracket is necessary with the aftermarket coil and distributor? I am not using it at this point, but can easily add it if it is needed. I am assuming it is part of the DuraSpark electronic ignition setup?
All that is left is power steering lines, PS fluid and coolant, two tranny cross-member bolts, the carb itself and the fuel hose that feeds it, and she is ready for her first start.
.. My factory F150 distributor quit on 9-11-2001 with about 108,000 miles... and 23 years... the plastic pickup module disintegrated between my fingers as I removed it... amazed it had even been working... about $15 for a new one got it going again... also got a new control module back then, but haven't needed it yet... my '86 Monte Carlo distributor is still going strong after 190,000 miles and 26 years... I don't know why...
.. Back in the 1960's we ran engines with 10.75-11.0 compression ratio fine to 6500-7000 RPMs on simply points ignitions with leaded gas that fouled the sparkplugs by deposits in a few thousand miles... points usually needed cleaning/replacing by then anyways... I'll prolly build the 351M/400 to 11.0-11.5 and use kerosene or other fuel booster... like I already do in some other engines...
Thanks guys...will change the oil at 500. I'll e-mail Tim Meyer for validation.
Yes, it does indeed feel stronger...it is a torque beast. Very smooth on acceleration - with a nice lopey idle, but not too rough. It sounds great.
I want to thank all that helped me in this build - especially DanLee in this thread.
I also want to thank my local machinist - Tommy Goza - who freshened up my block by sleeving a bad cylinder and honing the block for me, as well as grinding my crank and installing my cam bearings.
And last but far from least - Tim Meyer of TMeyer inc. His tech support was great - he took time to answer all my questions, FaceTimed with me during valve geometry setup when I was shimming my scorpion roller-rockers and adjusting push-rod length...and of course he built my Aussie quench heads for me. I supported him by buying most of my parts from him (pistons, lifters, cam, oil pump, gaskets, roller rockers) and I encourage all of you to use him and support his business - he works hard for us 400 enthusiasts - and his head-work is splendid.
Here she is. I'll make better videos in daylight. I ran out of sunlight!