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  #16  
Old 06-11-2012, 03:57 PM
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Alright, I am going to do it - and do it right.

I just got off the phone with Tim Meyer. As you stated, DanLee, my current pistons are not providing any quench due to their deck height, so they need to go - they are defeating the purpose of having Aussie heads.

I just ordered Tim's KB2344 pistons (9.5:1 C/R with 302 Cleveland heads):

Click the image to open in full size.

...and the following from Tim:
  • Piston rings
  • Scorpion pedestal mount roller rockers
  • Custom ground Comp camshaft (He calls it the "Pantera" cam...he is going to send me the grind information).
  • Pushrods that will work with my build

I'll post up once I get the grind information, and add pics to the thread once the goodies start arriving.
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #17  
Old 06-11-2012, 07:34 PM
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If you don't have EGR, don't forget to recurve the distributor.
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  #18  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlee View Post
If you don't have EGR, don't forget to recurve the distributor.
I do not have EGR; Should I re-curve my stock distributor with a spring / weight change, or are there aftermarket distributors that you can recommend that should be just about right that already compensate for no EGR?
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #19  
Old 06-12-2012, 02:26 PM
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AAAhhh...I see Tim Meyer is on here (TMI). Egg-cellent.

Thanks for all your help and advice, Tim. I'm looking forward to working with you (Tim is doing my head-work for me).

For the curious...here is the vehicle in question:

Click the image to open in full size.

Why, you might ask?

Family history...it was Grandpa's car. He used to take me to Disneyland in it.

Click the image to open in full size.

The day he bought it:

He's on the right:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



I even sourced some of the original hubcaps. Should be sweet when done. I know it is not a collectors car...but it is a nice rider...my kids love it...and you can fit six people in it. Anyone know where I can get some roof-rail weather seals for it?
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #20  
Old 06-12-2012, 07:50 PM
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You can change the springs in the factory distributor, or most aftermarket distributors will work.

You need heavier springs to slow the advance for non-EGR. The factory distributor used lighter springs to allow the timing to advance at lower RPM. This was OK with Exhaust gases mixed with the Fuel/Air, because the exhaust gas slows the spark, and cools the cylinder. Without EGR, the factory spark advances at an RPM that is too low, and pinging will occur.

Nice LTD.
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  #21  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:10 PM
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Engine comes out tomorrow. Pics to follow.
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2012, 12:15 AM
pcmenten pcmenten is offline
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That's good information from DanLee. I'll add this; the total amount of distributor advance needs to be reduced, too.

Your easiest, quickest remedy is to replace that 78 distributor with a distributor from a 71 400, then convert it to the DuraSpark ignition. Rock Auto sells them for $45. plus core.

For the cam, you might be able to save some money by going with stock Ford roller lifters, H-bars and spider, then using a Comp Cams retro-fit roller cam. Custom pushrods and pushrod guide plates will be required.
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  #23  
Old 07-15-2012, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcmenten View Post
That's good information from DanLee. I'll add this; the total amount of distributor advance needs to be reduced, too.

Your easiest, quickest remedy is to replace that 78 distributor with a distributor from a 71 400, then convert it to the DuraSpark ignition. Rock Auto sells them for $45. plus core.

For the cam, you might be able to save some money by going with stock Ford roller lifters, H-bars and spider, then using a Comp Cams retro-fit roller cam. Custom pushrods and pushrod guide plates will be required.
Can one of you recommend a good after-market distributor, IE Mallory, Accel, etc. that is plug-and-play with the correct advance already set up?

Cam, lifters, rocker selection is already done and parts on my bench.

Cam grind is a custom roller "Pantera" grind from TMI:

SPEC CARD
PART #: 32-000-8
ENGINE: FORD 351C-400M

GRIND #: FC 3630 /3632 HR108.0

INT EXH
VALVE ADJUSTMENT HYD HYD
GROSS VALVE LIFT .589 .602

DURATION @ .006
TAPPET LIFT 282 282

VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE
@ .050 INT 4 BTDC 32 ABDC
EXH 44 BBDC 0 ATDC

THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM INST. @ 104.0 CENTERLINE
INT EXH
DURATION @ .050 216.00 224.00
LOBE LIFT .341 .348
LOBE SEPARATION 108.0

SPRINGS REQUIRED
VALVE SPRINGS SPECS FURNISHED WITH SPRINGS
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #24  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:37 PM
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I would use this distributor from Summit Racing.

SUM-850025

You can check with Summit Racing, but the advance curve should be for a Non-EGR motor.
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  #25  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlee View Post
I would use this distributor from Summit Racing.

SUM-850025

You can check with Summit Racing, but the advance curve should be for a Non-EGR motor.
Thank you! I will call Summit tomorrow and discuss it with them.

Shane
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #26  
Old 07-16-2012, 12:04 AM
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Here we go...

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Teardown starts tomorrow, time permitting.

Heads will be sent off to Tim Meyer to be have the spring seats machined and the heads re-built to Tim's specs using Comp Cams valve springs in preparation for my full roller setup, including Scorpion roller-rockers.

I'll be doing the short-block myself; I'll have the block cleaned and inspected by a local machine shop, then re-assembly will follow using KB2344 pistons sourced from TMI along with fresh rings.

Does anyone have a suggestion for engine paint that can tolerate heat without burning off, especially in the area where the exhaust manifolds interface with the heads? I used engine enamel last time, but it did not withstand the heat.

Also, if there are any build suggestions anyone has, be it tips, gotchas, or modifications that are good to do, please say so now while I have a chance to do them.

More pics to follow as I tear-down / rebuild.

Thanks!

Shane
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #27  
Old 07-19-2012, 11:07 AM
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I finished my tear-down, the heads have been shipped to Tim Meyer for a rebuild, and I am dropping off my block, crank, pistons, cam, conn rods, etc to a local machine shop for a thorough cleaning and determination of whether anything needs bored, sleeved, ground, honed, and an assessment of deck height, etc. I also purchased that Summit racing distributor that DanLee recommended - it looks like a good bang for the buck.

That metal going through the engine from the lifters definitely caused some damage to the bearings.

Pics to follow later today of tear-down and autopsy.
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #28  
Old 07-20-2012, 12:17 PM
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Con -rod cap bearings:

Click the image to open in full size.

Main cap bearings:

Click the image to open in full size.

Cylinder walls all look pretty good...

Click the image to open in full size.

Except for number 6 (which was previously sleeved)...there is a gouge that has a valley and a raised bump - definitely from FOD running through there, source unknown, but either way #6 will need bored and sleeved AGAIN since this whole block is already .030 over:

Click the image to open in full size.

All loaded up and headed to Tommy Goza's machine shop in Acworth, Georgia:

Click the image to open in full size.

Can somebody recommend some good block paint and header paint that won't burn off? I want Ford dark blue. I am running the factory cast iron exhaust manifolds, as I cannot find any headers that will fit my car.
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2012, 12:11 AM
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wyoming4x4 wyoming4x4 is offline
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paint stuff!

on the paint on engine not a big deal just clean up and paint. if machine shop does its job should be a brakeclean of block and paint. exhuast manifold stuff. one of the tricks to manifold is heat up and then paint while hot. something about pre heating and paint really helps on the paint holding. kind of a poor boy powdercoat when using a high heat paint at least 1400 degrees paint rating. just heat up to 150 to 200 degrees and good to go. used to set parts on our wood stove and let set on top and get good and hot. the woman was not happy with me using the oven for automotive parts and pre heating. good luck.
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  #30  
Old 07-22-2012, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danlee View Post
I would use this distributor from Summit Racing.

SUM-850025

You can check with Summit Racing, but the advance curve should be for a Non-EGR motor.
Alright - The distributor is in hand. I see it is a GM / HEI type design...ProForm makes it for Summit from what I have read. I understand from Googling that since the coil is built into the cap, I no longer need to run a separate Ford-style canister-looking ignition coil - very cool.

I want to insure I hook it up correctly...so on my Ford distributor, I had a plug with three wires that mated with a 3-wire harness that runs from the ignition module mounted on the driver's side fenderwell.

I also had a coil that had other wires on it, including a feed for my tach signal as well as a suppression resistor.

I searched on the summit site, and there is a GM style "pigtail" I can use to hook up to the distributor:

ACCEL 170072 - ACCEL HEI Power Pigtails - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Click the image to open in full size.

Is it that simple? This new distributor only needs two wires hooked up to it?

Which wires do I use, the ones that were on the Ford coil's (+) and (-), or the ones that were on the three wire connector that ran to the OEM distributor? The coil wires make sense (And I assume I no longer use the Ford 3-wire distributor plug at all?), but I want to be sure I don't make any mistakes.

Any pics or diagrams anyone has would be great!

Shane
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78 Ford LTD: Ford 400 Bored out .030 - 408 CI, Edelbrock #2171 Intake Manifold, Edelbrock #1805 650 CFM Thunder AVS Carb, Edelbrock #8844 water pump, TMeyer spec KB2344 pistons, Aussie Cleveland 302C "Quench" TMeyer heads, Custom Comp Hyd Roller Cam (216 / 224 @.050", 108LSA), Lunati Roller lifters, Scorpion Roller Rockers. Got M? More is better. Mods in Garage
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:57 PM
 
 
 
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