My 2002 7.3 E-350 original tank began to self destruct in 2010. It completely fouled the fuel system with grunge. I replaced it with a used unit that looked good on the inside... but now this one too has flaked out on me too. It also killed another fuel pump in the process.
New tanks from Ford are $750 bucks. I found one for $224 shipped. Its brand name is "Action Crash" and it claims to be a "NEW" unit even though the name implys otherwise.
"Part" of the vendors name is "Geek" and no one there answers the phone or email. A search of the forum has born no fruit.
Anyone know anything about this tank, vendor or have another recommendation?
Action Crash is allied with Keystone Corp, both widely known in the collision repair business as huge suppliers of imported aftermarket parts. Also part of their network seems to be an outfit known as LKQ, a collection of once-privately owned salvage yards tied together with computers for instant access to any part within their system.
If you purchase the new imported tank I'd thoroughly clean it inside and use a high quality fuel tank sealer such as sold by POR-15---there are many good ones too. Cheap sealers are a waste of your time and shouldn't be considered.
You might also look for good condition salvaged tank which typically will be OEM and a lot less than Ford's new price. Of course I'd also clean and treat this one too as it seems you are having repeated issues with fuel tanks.
My last tank was salvage and came out of Greenville SC which is a Keystone location. It had a puncture wound but no internal de-lamination. It cost the same as the "Action Crash" brand new tank. I'm thinking the OE Ford tank doesn't hold up well to modern road diesel.
Keystone does not offer a new tank for my 2002 and that's too bad. They have one for newer vans with a nickle alloy plating instead of the coating that's giving me grief. The stuff is swimming around in the fuel and getting sucked up to the pickup...thus blocking fuel passage. It then gets shredded by the pressure and bits of it take out the fuel pump. It seems the plated tank would be less likely to cause this recurring issue.
I've had floating POR skin inside an aluminum motorcycle tank before. I've used it on several other occasions with no problem before that incident, but I've had enough with this particular thing and really want a permanent solution.
Anyone know of a plated option? If not, I'll definitely apply a coating before the install. Some here have mentioned going to a radiator repair shop to have it applied. Whats the advantage over a self installed POR kit?
Mr Gravity youíve covered most of the bases I would suggest---one step ahead of me---you've obviously put some thought into this!
Most ever fuel tank sealer Iíve known relied on good adhesion and was some sort of air cured polymer, typically used in aircraft tanks. Iím not familiar with the POR products as far as their sealers past the rust conversion surface preparations and certainly canít speak about too knowledgeably. Eastwood supply has a few sealers that I know have been used by the restoration guys for a long while.
A radiator shop probably wouldnít do any better a job than a motivated DIY however they could clean its inside very well, most likely some sort of hot wash, perhaps steam. From there a primer, etching agent or adhesion promoter for whatever sealer being used would most likely be an important step. Personally Iíd contact POR directly or cruise Eastwoodís site to see what they recommend. I canít imagine one of those outfits not having something suitable and long lasting.
Plastic tank would be great but are they available in a heavy duty size and shape that would also accommodate the Ford fuel pump set up? Thatís a great idea though!
I'm looking into having an aluminum or stainless tank custom made. In case there are any others afflicted with tank issues following this thread, I'll post back on my success or lack thereof at finding a fabricator.
This would be great---could be others are looking for something similar.
There is a thread somewhere here on FTE about a custom made tank, possibly to contain fuel. I'll do some digging and post the link when I find it---might take a day or two, perhaps it would be somewhat helpful.
I found Titan's site early in my search. I did not see a van application mentioned but now see that it is mentioned in the text on the 40 gallon tank. Thanks! Its only $900 which is close to Fords retail for a new OE steel tank.
I just returned from the Ford dealership where I found a new van to crawl under. Sure looks, feels and sounds like a plastic tank.
I also came across a pickup cab/chassis awaiting a cube to be fitted. The top of the fuel tank was exposed between the frame rails. I assume the guts of the van and pickup fuel tanks are identical but will verify at the parts counter in the a.m. I've read that these tanks are less than $400. new from Ford.
If I had the luxury of time, I would not have ordered a steel replacement tank. That's right, the symptoms have returned sooner than expected and a new replacement tank is on it's way. I will probably get it lined before install.
So the question of retro-fit-ability will need answering by someone else. Here are some bread crumbs you can follow.
What I learned:
1) 2010 and newer vans appear to have a plastic tank.
2) These newer vans are the same basic structure and I assume any tank that fits in post 10s will also fit in the space of pre 10s.
Info I was unable to obtain:
1) is the filler neck in the same location as the pre plastic steel tank.
2) will new tank straps and other fittings need to be purchased? Assume yes.
3) can the pickup (different part number) be made to fit?
4) will the hoses adapt? assume yes.
I had planned to order a new plastic fuel tank (which I found online for $311.00) and attempt to answer all these questions, but I am commuting 500 miles every week in this van and need it on the road "right now".
If all new internal bits, fittings and hangers need to be purchaced, this could still be an affordable option. If one considers the difference in the cost of the OE fuel tanks, converting to plastic is not likely to total much more money and will definitely end the flaking.