Oil Pressure Regulator Replacement - write up.
#16
12-24-2013, 09:02 PM
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#18
01-22-2014, 07:45 PM
I swapped the regulator recently as part of some other trouble shooting I'm doing. Simple enough but maybe this will help someone so here's how it went...
The regulator is located under the truck, just behind the balancer on the front of the engine ... at the lowest point of the path of the serpentine belt.
I ordered the parts from my local dealership. The valve kit is 3C3Z-6C751-A. I also ordered an extra o-ring to have on hand ... W302722.
I don't have the prices to hand as I write this but I think I paid $20 and $0.50 respectively. The regulator came wrapped in some sort of special paper marked as rust proof or something similar.
I also needed a 12mm allen wrench (which I didn't have) so I got one as part of a set at Harbor Freight. (I've read some posts where guys talk about 11mm, but my old regulator cap and new one were both definitely 100% a 12mm)
The oil feed into the regulator is above the 'at rest' level of the oil in the pan, so when you open the valve you lose about 1 cup of oil at most, even if that. Some rags are handy to cover the steering bars.
My old spring was definitley a little shorter than the new one (age?)
The valve portion definitley had some marks that could be seen in the surface and felt with a finger nail.
I cleaned the inside of the barrel out with a clean rag sprayed with brake cleaner and wrapped on a wooden dowel.
Then I smoothed the surface with some finishing cloths up to 6000 grit.
Amazon.com: MICRO MESH SANDING SHEETS INTRODUCTORY WOOD KIT: Home Improvement
I reassembled everything in reverse order ... valve in first, spring in second, lube the o-ring and screw in the cap. There is pressure from the spring being applied on the cap so be careful to find the threads and don't cross thread.
I tightened it until it felt snug and checked for leaks after running the engine.
The regulator is located under the truck, just behind the balancer on the front of the engine ... at the lowest point of the path of the serpentine belt.
I ordered the parts from my local dealership. The valve kit is 3C3Z-6C751-A. I also ordered an extra o-ring to have on hand ... W302722.
I don't have the prices to hand as I write this but I think I paid $20 and $0.50 respectively. The regulator came wrapped in some sort of special paper marked as rust proof or something similar.
I also needed a 12mm allen wrench (which I didn't have) so I got one as part of a set at Harbor Freight. (I've read some posts where guys talk about 11mm, but my old regulator cap and new one were both definitely 100% a 12mm)
The oil feed into the regulator is above the 'at rest' level of the oil in the pan, so when you open the valve you lose about 1 cup of oil at most, even if that. Some rags are handy to cover the steering bars.
My old spring was definitley a little shorter than the new one (age?)
The valve portion definitley had some marks that could be seen in the surface and felt with a finger nail.
I cleaned the inside of the barrel out with a clean rag sprayed with brake cleaner and wrapped on a wooden dowel.
Then I smoothed the surface with some finishing cloths up to 6000 grit.
Amazon.com: MICRO MESH SANDING SHEETS INTRODUCTORY WOOD KIT: Home Improvement
I reassembled everything in reverse order ... valve in first, spring in second, lube the o-ring and screw in the cap. There is pressure from the spring being applied on the cap so be careful to find the threads and don't cross thread.
I tightened it until it felt snug and checked for leaks after running the engine.
#19
01-22-2014, 11:46 PM
FTE Chapter Leader
You can put a mechanical gauge on it and watch. I can dig up the specifications
for the pressure if you need. But a sticking regulator will show a jumpy reading.
A bad regulator will come up as low,high or just one in the specifications for a
given RPM range.
You know that the electrical pressure gauge in the cluster is just an idiot light
with a pointer and not a lamp? The pointer moved when you have 7 PSI.
There are a few ways to plumb in a real pressure gauge and that would be by
using a "T" at the pressure sender (aka SWITCH). Then there is the pressure
port on the front of the oil cooler assembly. The last place would need you to
get one of the aftermarket billet oil filter housing with the port on the top.
Sean
EDIT : Oil pressure specifications. This data is from the 2006 Workshop Manual
All pressures are an engine normal operating temperature
12 PSI @ 700 RPMs
24 PSI @ 1200 RPMs
45 PSI @ 1800 RPMs
for the pressure if you need. But a sticking regulator will show a jumpy reading.
A bad regulator will come up as low,high or just one in the specifications for a
given RPM range.
You know that the electrical pressure gauge in the cluster is just an idiot light
with a pointer and not a lamp? The pointer moved when you have 7 PSI.
There are a few ways to plumb in a real pressure gauge and that would be by
using a "T" at the pressure sender (aka SWITCH). Then there is the pressure
port on the front of the oil cooler assembly. The last place would need you to
get one of the aftermarket billet oil filter housing with the port on the top.
Sean
EDIT : Oil pressure specifications. This data is from the 2006 Workshop Manual
All pressures are an engine normal operating temperature
12 PSI @ 700 RPMs
24 PSI @ 1200 RPMs
45 PSI @ 1800 RPMs
#20
01-23-2014, 12:17 AM
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#21
03-03-2017, 09:41 AM
I swapped the regulator recently as part of some other trouble shooting I'm doing. Simple enough but maybe this will help someone so here's how it went...
The regulator is located under the truck, just behind the balancer on the front of the engine ... at the lowest point of the path of the serpentine belt.
I ordered the parts from my local dealership. The valve kit is 3C3Z-6C751-A. I also ordered an extra o-ring to have on hand ... W302722.
I don't have the prices to hand as I write this but I think I paid $20 and $0.50 respectively. The regulator came wrapped in some sort of special paper marked as rust proof or something similar.
I also needed a 12mm allen wrench (which I didn't have) so I got one as part of a set at Harbor Freight. (I've read some posts where guys talk about 11mm, but my old regulator cap and new one were both definitely 100% a 12mm)
The oil feed into the regulator is above the 'at rest' level of the oil in the pan, so when you open the valve you lose about 1 cup of oil at most, even if that. Some rags are handy to cover the steering bars.
My old spring was definitley a little shorter than the new one (age?)
The valve portion definitley had some marks that could be seen in the surface and felt with a finger nail.
I cleaned the inside of the barrel out with a clean rag sprayed with brake cleaner and wrapped on a wooden dowel.
Then I smoothed the surface with some finishing cloths up to 6000 grit.
Amazon.com: MICRO MESH SANDING SHEETS INTRODUCTORY WOOD KIT: Home Improvement
I reassembled everything in reverse order ... valve in first, spring in second, lube the o-ring and screw in the cap. There is pressure from the spring being applied on the cap so be careful to find the threads and don't cross thread.
I tightened it until it felt snug and checked for leaks after running the engine.
The regulator is located under the truck, just behind the balancer on the front of the engine ... at the lowest point of the path of the serpentine belt.
I ordered the parts from my local dealership. The valve kit is 3C3Z-6C751-A. I also ordered an extra o-ring to have on hand ... W302722.
I don't have the prices to hand as I write this but I think I paid $20 and $0.50 respectively. The regulator came wrapped in some sort of special paper marked as rust proof or something similar.
I also needed a 12mm allen wrench (which I didn't have) so I got one as part of a set at Harbor Freight. (I've read some posts where guys talk about 11mm, but my old regulator cap and new one were both definitely 100% a 12mm)
The oil feed into the regulator is above the 'at rest' level of the oil in the pan, so when you open the valve you lose about 1 cup of oil at most, even if that. Some rags are handy to cover the steering bars.
My old spring was definitley a little shorter than the new one (age?)
The valve portion definitley had some marks that could be seen in the surface and felt with a finger nail.
I cleaned the inside of the barrel out with a clean rag sprayed with brake cleaner and wrapped on a wooden dowel.
Then I smoothed the surface with some finishing cloths up to 6000 grit.
Amazon.com: MICRO MESH SANDING SHEETS INTRODUCTORY WOOD KIT: Home Improvement
I reassembled everything in reverse order ... valve in first, spring in second, lube the o-ring and screw in the cap. There is pressure from the spring being applied on the cap so be careful to find the threads and don't cross thread.
I tightened it until it felt snug and checked for leaks after running the engine.
#22
03-29-2017, 01:43 PM
O ring
I'm currently working on a 6.0 with the pressure relief valve leaking , can I just replace o-ring to stop leak? Also where can I find the valve everytime I search for it I can't find it, always comes up with something else or the whole entire cover gaskets and all..... Would advance just carry the valve I figured I might as well just replace
If i had wanted the entire regulator assembly (plug, spring, and plunger) it would have been $30.
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