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Exhaust Help - stock manifold vs. headers in 2V V10
I have recently become the owner of a 2003 F350 with the 2V V-10. In addition to this, I've recently become a member of this site! I appreciate all the many discussions and useful information available. It's great to have so much information centralized where I can find help or advice on so many topics.
Anyways, I, like many others I've read about, have an issue with broken exhaust manifold studs in my engine.
I'm planning to take it in to a professional to get repaired, as I just don't have the time or patience to get it fixed within the timeframe I want it done. However, I'm not certain what path to take in regards to replacing the studs/ manifolds.
I'm not sure whether it's best to replace the stock manifolds wiith aftermarket headers, or just replace the exhaust studs with upgraded materials and re-use the stock manifolds. I image that it depends on what I'm looking for.
In all honesty, I don't know much about headers. I don't want to go with replacing the manifolds with headers if the headers are less reliable, and I'm going to have to replace them in a few years. I know it depends on what type/make of headers I have installed also, and if they installed properly of course. If I'm more concerned with longevity of the headers in comparision to performance, am I better off keeping the stock Ford manifolds on? If I keep the stock manifolds on with upgraded stud or bolt materials, will I just end up having to replace the studs/bolts again in a few years? Will it be less likely the studs or bolts will break again if aftermarket headers are installed?
Banks headers seem to be the cream of the crop, and the price tag reflects that. They are the only stainless steel, full length design available. Many people have had great power gains with the long tube, full length headers, so if you're serious, I say go for it.
I cant answer if stock manifold and upgraded studs will last long. I would assume stock manifold will outlast any header. Its a head, thick walled piece. But is also noose around the neck for letting this beast breath. I used Summit locking bolts with my headman headers. No problem with the Summit locking bolts. Cant say the same thing for the Headman bolts. I lost them at the collector the first day and all replacement bolts I have tried need tightened even other month. Headers are fine, just loosen at the collector/ y pipe connection. Stock Y pipe is alsdo a big bottleneck. Headmans have nice even pipes through the y pipe.
2014 FX4 SCREW 5.0 w/3.73 rear Black on Black on Black
I had to make the same decision, I didn't want to spend the money and fix it stock then have the same issue down the road so I decided on the Gibson shorty headers! The headers cost a little more but give the truck a better sound, more power, and don't have to worry about the studs.. I am very happy with my decision so far..
I had to bring this thread back in hope to get a specific answer to the question. Should we install headers or is it just as well to upgrade the studs/or grade 8 bolts and use the stock manifolds. Can we expect the same problem down the road if we use the stock manifolds, broken studs/bolts. I have come to a toss up between repair manifolds or replace with headers.
Scott -2000 Excursion Limited. V10. 4x4. Lifted 4". 35" nitto terra grapplers. Red Head steering gear. Warn hub locks. Superchips cortex tuner. Gibson shorty ceramic headers. Flowmaster delta 40 muffler. DC power alt. Surco roof rack. 05 Front. 08 smoked lens mirrors.
2011 Edge sport awd - Wife
1995 Taurus SHO MTX- My daily driver
Do the banks, Headman, Gibson etc headers make it louder? Im not interested in loud. The previous owner of my X put a magnaflow muffler and duals out the back with Magnaflow tips. I cant wait to get it off! I want to go back with single out the side
I have the ebay headers and they are crap.. They looked good when i took them out of the box but after i installed them i felt a low end torque loss. Then after about 6 months i started to get a ticking sound like the gasket blew out. But it turned out to be crack in the header near the flange. I welded it and it was good for a few months. But then started ticking again. This time it was where all the tubes meet and i cant get the welder in there to repair. so the stock manifolds are going back on.
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