The whole point of headers is to create a savaging effect in the cylinder. More exhaust out, more fresh air/fuel in. Compare the stock 2V V10 log manifold to the 3V V10 header like manifold and then to a header. I don't think any amount of porting would help.
Not much room in the engine bay for me. I wonder if I can get the 3v to fit in there... only have an extra inch or so of clearance with the 2v though so I doubt it.
Well, I've bitten off more that I can chew. Upon attempting to drill out a stubborn stud on the passenger side, I was extremely negligent, and arguably did the worst thing I could have done. I drilled way too deep and hit a water pocket.
Now I have to decide what to do next. I've been given many repair suggestions, but I'm told the best method is to replace the head.
Can anybody share some experiences or suggestions with replacing the head?
truckfella: Yes, I did get the truck up and running. I ordered a 1/16 NPT tap and an aluminum allen head npt plug. Sealed it with the high-temp thread locker, and installed the bolt for the header. I put some stop-leak in the coolant as well, just in case. I got the truck running and have had no leaks to my knowledge...hopefully it stays that way
I didn't want to deal with the hassle of pulling the old head off, and possibly pulling the engine out to do it. I'm pretty happy it sealed.
It is definitely nice to not have to worry about the leaking exhaust at the manifold, caused from broken studs. I did have leaks at the two slip joints after installing the headers, which was when I was using the u-clamps supplied with the Banks kit. So, I ordered some exhaust band clamps (thanks for the advice Lance) for the joints on Amazon, and they worked great.
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