smog pump delete- now a squealing belt on startup...FIXED!!
#31
06-04-2012, 05:27 PM
More Turbo
#32
06-04-2012, 07:27 PM
#34
06-04-2012, 07:56 PM
#37
10-15-2012, 05:32 AM
Posting Guru
#38
11-07-2012, 09:07 PM
#39
11-07-2012, 09:39 PM
#40
11-08-2012, 06:45 AM
Removed the smog pump on my '94 302 (originally had a 99" belt), and drove for three days just fine with the Gates 94.5" belt.. Within a week it started squealing on startup and QUICKLY got to where I couldn't turn on the heat or anything without it squealing. I ordered a Goodyear brand replacement tensioner because it has a steel pulley instead of plastic.. Actually squealed worse! Went to AutoZone and they let me try several belts until I found the one that fit PERFECTLY. The 94.5" belt fit, but the tensioner was maxed out allll the way. 93.7" juuuuust barely fit (NOTE: It's a MUST to install the belt on the tensioner pulley last because it's rounded edge) After a month of driving the tensioner is still dead center in it's travel limit. 
Works great, and is actually a cheaper, more common belt size than the 99", or the 94.5"
The cat was already removed and a true duel SS exhaust replaced it. I plugged the holes in the heads with JEGS Thermactor plugs, removed the vacuum hose from the TAD, TAB solenoids, and installed a 3" pc of 7/16" hose to bypass them completely. DID make a notable improvement in the truck just removing the pump. Not a LOT, but it's a bit smoother running now. And a month later I still don't have a single fault code on the tester. Total cost including the belt, plugs, and new tensioner.. About $60. Cheaper than they sell the lame "bypass bracket" for by itself. The whole engine bay is cleaner, and I can now change all 8 spark plugs with just the ratchet and socket. Not extensions or anything needed.
Note: you can remove and toss the Idler pulley as well!
"111" = Everythings good
Works great, and is actually a cheaper, more common belt size than the 99", or the 94.5" The cat was already removed and a true duel SS exhaust replaced it. I plugged the holes in the heads with JEGS Thermactor plugs, removed the vacuum hose from the TAD, TAB solenoids, and installed a 3" pc of 7/16" hose to bypass them completely. DID make a notable improvement in the truck just removing the pump. Not a LOT, but it's a bit smoother running now. And a month later I still don't have a single fault code on the tester. Total cost including the belt, plugs, and new tensioner.. About $60. Cheaper than they sell the lame "bypass bracket" for by itself. The whole engine bay is cleaner, and I can now change all 8 spark plugs with just the ratchet and socket. Not extensions or anything needed.
Note: you can remove and toss the Idler pulley as well!
"111" = Everythings good
#41
11-10-2012, 07:46 PM
Removed the smog pump on my '94 302 (originally had a 99" belt), and drove for three days just fine with the Gates 94.5" belt.. Within a week it started squealing on startup and QUICKLY got to where I couldn't turn on the heat or anything without it squealing. I ordered a Goodyear brand replacement tensioner because it has a steel pulley instead of plastic.. Actually squealed worse! Went to AutoZone and they let me try several belts until I found the one that fit PERFECTLY. The 94.5" belt fit, but the tensioner was maxed out allll the way. 93.7" juuuuust barely fit (NOTE: It's a MUST to install the belt on the tensioner pulley last because it's rounded edge) After a month of driving the tensioner is still dead center in it's travel limit. Works great, and is actually a cheaper, more common belt size than the 99", or the 94.5"
The cat was already removed and a true duel SS exhaust replaced it. I plugged the holes in the heads with JEGS Thermactor plugs, removed the vacuum hose from the TAD, TAB solenoids, and installed a 3" pc of 7/16" hose to bypass them completely. DID make a notable improvement in the truck just removing the pump. Not a LOT, but it's a bit smoother running now. And a month later I still don't have a single fault code on the tester. Total cost including the belt, plugs, and new tensioner.. About $60. Cheaper than they sell the lame "bypass bracket" for by itself. The whole engine bay is cleaner, and I can now change all 8 spark plugs with just the ratchet and socket. Not extensions or anything needed.
Note: you can remove and toss the Idler pulley as well!
"111" = Everythings good
Works great, and is actually a cheaper, more common belt size than the 99", or the 94.5" The cat was already removed and a true duel SS exhaust replaced it. I plugged the holes in the heads with JEGS Thermactor plugs, removed the vacuum hose from the TAD, TAB solenoids, and installed a 3" pc of 7/16" hose to bypass them completely. DID make a notable improvement in the truck just removing the pump. Not a LOT, but it's a bit smoother running now. And a month later I still don't have a single fault code on the tester. Total cost including the belt, plugs, and new tensioner.. About $60. Cheaper than they sell the lame "bypass bracket" for by itself. The whole engine bay is cleaner, and I can now change all 8 spark plugs with just the ratchet and socket. Not extensions or anything needed.
Note: you can remove and toss the Idler pulley as well!
"111" = Everythings good
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