Great for 200!

 

Okay, so I've got a little bit of an update, but I'll post it a bit later. Right now, I've got some interesting information...
So, I was messing around with Comp Cams' CamQuest 6 (basically a generalized virtual dyno), punching in some numbers to see what I could come up with a few minutes ago, and came up with some pretty sweet and easily attainable numbers. Here's how it breaks down, and keep in mind that this is a pretty vague program, and is nothing more than a tool to give the user a ball-park figure.

Now, assuming that I have a ported/polished 300 head with stock sized valves, 8:1 compression, a Comp 260H cam, a 600 CFM carb on a "Dual-Plane High-Flow" intake (like the Offy DP), and I was running 10lbs of boost with Garrett T04E-57 Turbo with an A/R of .35, with an intercooler with an assumed efficiency of 80%, assuming 1 PSI drop in boost through the intercooler, and "H.P. Manifolds W/Mufflers WO/Cat" (Industrial exhaust manifold), the program spit out these numbers:

316.5 HP @ 4000 RPM
518 ft/lb TQ @ 2500 RPM

If I bump that up to 16 PSI with 1 PSI of pressure drop through the intercooler, (essentially 15 PSI), it spits out these numbers:

418.7 HP @ 4000 RPM
679.2 ft/lb TQ @ 3000 RPM


Man, I love turbos.

 

Not bad numbers at all.

Jim

 

Alright.. So, perhaps a momentary change of plan is in order. I just found out today that the guy whose shop I'm using for my truck going back to work full time at somebody else's shop, and is handing over his shop to someone else. Unfortunately, this change-over is taking place on July 1st. So, either I've got to have this truck finished by July 1st, or I've got to figure out somewhere else to work on it, etc. So I'm debating on either moving the project else where, or getting the motor together and throwing it in the truck to get it driving again and finishing the turbo down the line.. Not sure what I'm going to do with it yet.

Also, I've made a few decisions. Rather than just throw a turbo on the engine and run it, since I'm going to be pulling the oil pan anyway, I've decided (since I'll be in there) to put in a Melling High Volume oil pump, to put new Clevite main and rod bearings in, along with ARP rod bolts and main studs, and I think I'm going to go ahead and put in a cam/lifters/timing set as well.

Anyway, for today's update, I didn't get as much done as I would have liked, as my buddy didn't open up the shop until late this afternoon. But it's all good. Today, I ran down to work, got my gaskets, head studs, an engine stand, an oil pan and a couple of cans of paint and got to work. The 2,000 lb engine stand I wanted was out of stock, and would have taken at least a week (plus crazy shipping charges) to get to me, so I settled for one of the 1,250lb stands that we had in stock. It turns out that the one that I got was different from what I thought it was going to be, different from what the description said, from what is pictured on Summit's website, and different from what our computer system shows, even though the part numbers all match. And though it's supposed to be rated to 1,250lbs, it sags heavily with the 300 bolted to it. Oh well, considering my new-found time crunch, I don't really have the time to be concerned with engine stands, as long as it holds the engine.. Enough complaints, on with the pictures.



So much for 1,250lbs. Ha. At least it holds the engine.

Now, I stripped everything off of the engine, and to my surprise, most everything came off very easily. I'd say that's a good sign. I forgot to take pictures of it after it was stripped and pictures of it before and after I cleaned it off. There was all kinds of grease and dirt caked onto this thing (not the worst I've seen, but not the best, either), so I went at it with some Purple Power and a wire brush. Got it all nice and clean, and threw a coat of paint on the block/head just in time to close up the shop and go home.





Sorry for the crappy quality on the last picture, I took the picture as the lights were being turned off. Ha. So, I'm going with that silver color on the block/head, and then going with a Ford blue on the valve cover, pushrod cover and timing cover, and putting on a new water pump and water neck, re-painting all the brackets, pulleys and crank pulley gloss black... Stay tuned!

 

Don't you just love how life throws you a curveball like your buddies shop?
Those virtual dyno numbers look awesome, cant wait to see the real numbers down the road on a real dyno. Your paint scheme for the motor,

 

Can you read a compressor map? Figure out your mass airflow, and pick a turbo based on that. For a healthy 300" motor, I would rough estimate 25lbs/min max flow n/a. At 7psi, a p/r of 1.47, max flow would be 36lbs/min. You want the meat of the compressor map in the meat of your driving rpm at 1.5p/r, otherwise driveability & response will suffer.

Look at small t04 maps. At 1.5pr, that holset is barely getting started!

As long as you're swapping carbs, consider e85, if it's in your area. 105 octane, and great evaporative intercooling with a carburetor. Might not even need an air-to-air.

 

Mmm.. love the look of these 300's.

 

Here is e85 making 100hp/100ftlbs more than gasoline on a mild smallblock
v8. (Over 600/600)

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...5/viewall.html

 

Nice color choice on the engine!

It will be a few years, but I'm going to do the same build. How accurate do you think those numbers are? 60%ish?

 

I was toying with the turbo 300 idea myself. My idea was to use the turbo and carb setup off of a pre-efi Buick v-6.



A link to some chevy guys doing this => Buick turbo for my 250 - Inliners International Bulletin Board

 

Alright. So, a bit of an update.

Due to time constraints with my friend handing over his shop to someone else, and the fact that I had no chance at all to work on it last week, I will be swapping the new engine in as it sits, with new gaskets, a high volume oil pump, plugs/wires, and paint. I need to get it out of there. Unfortunately, I may have to delay the project a bit further, as I may be moving within then next month or so, and I'll need the money for the move. That remains to be seen though, so I'm not getting crazy about it yet.

I did make a phone call to Isky Racing, and found that their turbo cam (which is supposedly a perfect match for motors running 7 psi of boost) is a custom grind. So, seeing that it's a custom grind, I'm wondering if they couldn't grind me a cam that would be better matched to ~10 psi. Cost of the cam is $158.00, and it'd take about 5 days or so for them to grind it and ship it. Unfortunately though, due to time constraints and the possible move, that's again being put on the back burner.

All that being said, I'm going to go ahead (hopefully before I maybe move) and swap a ZF 5 speed into the truck. Now, if the numbers I've been looking at are realistic and attainable, I'll be putting down 500+ ft/lbs of torque, and I've heard that the ZF only stands up to ~400 ft/lbs. Anybody know of any re-build kits or anything to beef the transmission up?

 

If the cam is matched to your rpm range, it will work fine with 7, 10, or even 15psi. If you have to run a higher cruise rpm range to make more boost, the turbo is oversized. With even mild headwork, the ports will probably be done by 4500rpm, and with a properly sized turbo, I suspect you should have your target boost pressure by 2000rpm.

 

Yeah, I'm planning on doing a port/polish and a valve job, and I'm not planning on spinning this motor any higher than 4,000 rpm, 4,500 would be an absolute maximum. I was wanting to start building boost at about 1,000-1,500 RPM and be at full boost by about 2,000-2,500.

 

Update!

Alright, so I didn't quite get as far as I wanted to today, as the bay I was going to use was occupied, so we had to get that truck out of there first. I didn't actually get started on my truck until a little after noon today, and wrapped up at around five. I got everything disconnected, and got the blown motor out (working by myself), and went to work on the 'new' motor. I got all the pieces cleaned up, got everything painted, cleaned up the gasket mating surfaces, and put in the one piece oil pan gasket and oil pan, and before I knew it, it was five oclock and we had to shut down. However, the truck WILL be running tomorrow.

Some pictures:



Got the hood off, got everything disconnected, bellhousing bolts loose, and ready to un-bolt the motor mounts and start snatching.



Internals of the 'new' motor. Everything still looks good.



Pulled the #5 main cap. The main journal still looks to be in pretty good shape.



#5 main cap. The bearing's showing a little copper, but nothing bad. No crazy grooves or anything, and the thrust still looks great. As a side note, these main caps are huge for a gasoline engine. Granted, my fingers are short and stubby, but jeez. That's a big main cap.



And this is as far as I got today. A little disappointed at the lack of real progress, but life goes on. Tomorrow's a new day. Something else that I need to figure out is the dipstick. Originally, this motor had a middle sump oil pan, so naturally, the dipstick is in the middle of the block, and the dipstick was accurate. Well, being an earlier casting, there's no provision for the dipstick to be towards the rear of the block to accommodate a rear sump oil pan, so I'm stuck with the dipstick that I've got, and it scrapes on the bottom of the oil pan. My idea was to put the correct amount of oil in the motor, insert the dipstick, see where the oil level is at on the stick, and come up with a way to mark it at the oil level.. Any other suggestions?

 

Start with 5 quarts, mark that level and then add the 6th quart and mark, again.